Jump to content

how to reproduce a decal sheet no longer in print?


Recommended Posts

OK... so I'm a guy who's been a scale aircraft lurker for many years, occasionally finding time to head out to the garage bench, usually to patch up ancient, existing models that have undergone the ravages of time. I haven't really had reason to jump in with both feet and address the community as a whole, and while I fear the topic may be a bit controversial, I have to go ahead and let fly.

Without divulging much in terms of specifics, I have a plane I built as a kid, which sat on my father's office credenza for several years until his death, and now resides in 'fixer-upper' shape on my garage workbench. This is from the old school; completely OOB, matte paint, decals applied without gloss coat and flat sealant, and as a result have been peeling off for years.

The project I have in mind for it is to scratch-build some replacement parts (gear doors, speed brake) and series updates to it (it's a Century Series jet in SEA camo) and apply new markings to it in honor of my wife. That being said, the markings I have in mind (1) were initially made for a larger scale, and (2) as a Cutting Edge product, are no longer in print and pretty much out of circulation in all the usual places (eBay, et al). I did, however, find an archival JPEG of the larger-scale sheet from an archival article, was able to re-size it to fit my smaller scale subject, and now have it saved.

Now I kinda feel I'm entering a group confessional as I ask... has anyone reproduced, using an inkjet printer and the a decal paper kit (e.g. Testors) a decal sheet in this way? And if so, what was your list of computer tools needed to accomplish just this? Or... would I be better off trying to produce my own, using dead reckoning and an open-source graphics package like GIMP? (Adobe is not a possibility)

My profound thanks in advance for your suggestions. As I approach middle age, I find solace in these things that I did in a far less complicated time of life.

Edited by gwaktek
Link to post
Share on other sites

90% of your markings like insignia, number codes, warning stencils, you should be able to find off other sheets. A lot of us have spares, just ask.

For unique markings like nose art and squadron markings you are probably on your own but this limits your scope to a few decals. Find a good photo from a book and Gimp away, it can be a good learning process.

What aircraft and model is this?

Edited by toadwbg
Link to post
Share on other sites

Or... would I be better off trying to produce my own, using dead reckoning and an open-source graphics package like GIMP? (Adobe is not a possibility)

I've been in this hobby for about 5 years and have tried to learn every aspect of building scale models.

Making my own decals is one of 'em.

From your saved JPEG you'll need to trace it with some sort of drawing/illustration vector program. If you try to print out onto decal film from the JPEG, you'll be disappointed because of the less than sharp image. But, by all means, try it.

So trace the JPEG ... and you'll go thru the double and triple-check phase and then print it onto decal film/paper. I use Bare Metal, Experts Choice Decal film, but assume one brand is as good as the other.

Let it dry ... I like to leave it for 24 hours or so just to make sure the inkjet ink is dry in those heavy colour areas.

Then spray with a clear ... I use Krylon. You could also use paint on, with a brush, decal sealer.

Let that all dry and try it out like any other decal material. You will have to cut the film around the desired decal ...

And then just more practice and bobs yer uncle!

Hope this helps

Pete

Link to post
Share on other sites

As toadwbg mentioned, a lot of the bits may be available from more readily available sources--use those if you can, as they will be easier to use. For the others, you said you already have an appropriate decals sheet at a larger scale. You also said you know how to use GIMP.

My suggestion is to focus on just the bits you can't get elsewhere.

  1. Go back to the original larger image.
  2. Copy each disinct item out of the original JPEG into a separate plane on a GIMP image.
  3. Organize the items into a relatively compact block. This will conserve decal paper once you start printing, especially when you're learning ;)
  4. Test print what you collected on plain white paper.
  5. Determine the correct printing scale factor to get the right size on the model. That is, don't directly scale the image, but scale it via printing only; this maximizes the detail in the image.
  6. Depending on the original JPEG and the detail needed, you may find that the printed image doesn't look as good as you'd like. You may want to redraw some/all of the bits directly in GIMP. Depending on your GIMP-foo, this can range from easy to harder. I once redrew parts of an otherwise beautifully printed Cartograph decal that was very badly designed (wrong colors, wrong details, only the main shape was right).
  7. Decide if you need a white or clear decal sheet. A clear decal sheet allows the background colors to show through where it's needed. But, it may result in the decal's inks not fully hiding the paint, changing decal colors once applied. A white sheet allows white in the decal--clear doesn't--and provides better color fidelity, but must be exactly trimmed to shape and doesn't allow background colors to be seen within the decals. A really complex image may require a white backing with holes within the image.
  8. Get decal sheet blanks and learn to print on it with your printer. You may need to adjust printer settings &etc.
  9. Overcoat with Microscale Liquid Decal Film, Future, or other compatible clear. The decal blank will have more specific recommendations.
  10. Trim and apply decals

Decal making is a good skill to have. While I generally buy decals for special subjects or any Tamiya kit, I do make my own when needed.

Link to post
Share on other sites

90% of your markings like insignia, number codes, warning stencils, you should be able to find off other sheets. A lot of us have spares, just ask.

For unique markings like nose art and squadron markings you are probably on your own but this limits your scope to a few decals. Find a good photo from a book and Gimp away, it can be a good learning process.

What aircraft and model is this?

ce_f-100d_62942.jpg

Monogram F-100D in 1/48... like I said, total old school. Was my absolute fave build in my early teens, ended up doing three of them; two SEA camos and one NMF.

Now imagine replacing every little narrow bit of plastic that couldn't withstand the rigors of everything that could happen in life over 30-plus years. Antennae, pitot tube, refueling probe, left wing slat, tail skid, speed brake, gun access panels... I decided to go with an in-flight disposition because I have no struts left, only wheels... and I refuse on principle to go with aftermarket mods. I'm funny that way...

Link to post
Share on other sites

90% of your markings like insignia, number codes, warning stencils, you should be able to find off other sheets. A lot of us have spares, just ask.

For unique markings like nose art and squadron markings you are probably on your own but this limits your scope to a few decals. Find a good photo from a book and Gimp away, it can be a good learning process.

What aircraft and model is this?

Monogram F-100D in 1/48... like I said, total old school. Was my absolute fave build in my early teens, ended up doing three of them; two SEA camos and one NMF.

Now imagine replacing every little narrow bit of plastic that couldn't withstand the rigors of everything that could happen in life over 30-plus years. Antennae, pitot tube, refueling probe, left wing slat, tail skid, speed brake, gun access panels... I decided to go with an in-flight disposition because I have no struts left, only wheels... and I refuse on principle to go with aftermarket mods. I'm funny that way...

Link to post
Share on other sites

This kit can be found on the cheap, like $10 or under cheap. Also Revel has great customer service for spare parts. Go to their website.

I hear ya Toad, and I know that if I sunk a few more bucks into this I could probably shoot for the moon on the end product... but there's just something about this particular accretion of styrene that prevents me from replacing it altogether. Maybe Revell has old replacement parts for it, I don't know... but it may just be the kind of thing where only I can appreciate how it ultimately ends up looking.

I really appreciate the feedback I've gotten so far from the community- glad you all care enough to reply.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I hear ya Toad, and I know that if I sunk a few more bucks into this I could probably shoot for the moon on the end product... but there's just something about this particular accretion of styrene that prevents me from replacing it altogether. Maybe Revell has old replacement parts for it, I don't know... but it may just be the kind of thing where only I can appreciate how it ultimately ends up looking.

I really appreciate the feedback I've gotten so far from the community- glad you all care enough to reply.

Understood. Let us know if we can help and have fun.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I hear ya Toad, and I know that if I sunk a few more bucks into this I could probably shoot for the moon on the end product... but there's just something about this particular accretion of styrene that prevents me from replacing it altogether. Maybe Revell has old replacement parts for it, I don't know... but it may just be the kind of thing where only I can appreciate how it ultimately ends up looking.

I really appreciate the feedback I've gotten so far from the community- glad you all care enough to reply.

If you do decide to go the replacement part route Revell reissued the F-100 a year ago or so. I've had great luck getting parts from them. It usually takes about a week or two to get them. But I can't seem to find the F-100 in their current catalog. But it never hurts to try. Here is the order page. http://www.revell.com/support/parts-request-2.php

As well as the most recent instructions for the kit

http://manuals.hobbico.com/rmx/85-5317.pdf

Link to post
Share on other sites

Monogram F-100D in 1/48...

This can't be done with home equipment. Ink jet and color laser printers are designed to print on white paper, and any color (except black) is going to be very transparent. You can print on white decal paper, but that requires you to cut off any part of the decal that isn't part of the image itself. That would make the tail code very difficult, and the nose art impossible.

The only printer that can print opaque colors is the long-out-of-production Alps Micro-Dry printers. Some small-output decal producers use these. If you make the art, there are people that will print it for you. But they have their own limitations. Something complicated like the nose art is going to have heavy, visible dithering.

Link to post
Share on other sites

This can't be done with home equipment. Ink jet and color laser printers are designed to print on white paper, and any color (except black) is going to be very transparent. You can print on white decal paper, but that requires you to cut off any part of the decal that isn't part of the image itself. That would make the tail code very difficult, and the nose art impossible.

The only printer that can print opaque colors is the long-out-of-production Alps Micro-Dry printers. Some small-output decal producers use these. If you make the art, there are people that will print it for you. But they have their own limitations. Something complicated like the nose art is going to have heavy, visible dithering.

Wow... so this, itself, opens up another thought/topic... while I haven't had the opportunity to browse the whole forum to see if this has happened in the past, are there any members who could be considered ALPS-for-hire guys? I know there have been folks who have posted their subjects over the years who (I believe) have done their own decals on an ALPS- would they be open to one-off requests for a nominal sum?

Thanks to all who have offered advice and assistance so far- your generosity overwhelms. Much appreciated.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I recall someone asking a question like this before. He was a young person, i think 13 or 14. Anyway, people said that it would be very hard to do. You would need a type of photo editing program. Hey, you should send a PM to Vince Maddux. I read in one thread on Zone Five that he knows what he is doing when it comes to decals.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you do decide to go the replacement part route Revell reissued the F-100 a year ago or so. I've had great luck getting parts from them. It usually takes about a week or two to get them. But I can't seem to find the F-100 in their current catalog. But it never hurts to try. Here is the order page. http://www.revell.com/support/parts-request-2.php

As well as the most recent instructions for the kit

http://manuals.hobbico.com/rmx/85-5317.pdf

well, whaddya know...

-----

**This is an automatic confirmation - please do not reply to this email**

Your Revell parts request (#109770) was shipped today. Please allow a minimum of 2 weeks for delivery.

If you are located outside the Continental US, please allow up to 4-6 weeks for delivery.

If your parts have not arrived in this timeframe, please do not submit another ticket - you may contact us at cservice@revell.com, or call (800)833-3570.

-----

this should be fun!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...