davevw Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 I'm looking for tips on paint chipping post paint job. I have tried the silver pen technique and its not working for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
metroman Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 I use Vallejo acrylic aluminum with a toothpick, this on final clearcoat of Alclad2 Semi-Matte which with you can easily erase errors or stray scuffs. Easy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 (edited) Was it a Silver "Jell" Pen? I like to use these, you can remove any mistakes with alcohol (carefully) Curt Edited March 25, 2014 by Netz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thegoodsgt Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 (edited) The key to creating realistic paint chips is their having sharp and jagged edges. My first attempt, using paint and a paint brush, was ineffective because they looked like ameba-like blobs. Try using Prismacolor pencils. You can sharpen them down to a very fine tip and create incredibly tiny and precise chips. You can see the results on my Hasegawa 1/72 J2M3 Jack. Look for the pencils at any art supply store, such as Jerry's. Edited March 26, 2014 by thegoodsgt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nerdling Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 The key to creating realistic paint chips is their having sharp and jagged edges. My first attempt, using paint and a paint brush, was ineffective because they looked like ameba-like blobs. Try using Prismacolor pencils. You can sharpen them down to a very fine tip and create incredibly tiny and precise chips. You can see the results on my Hasegawa 1/72 J2M3 Jack. Look for the pencils at any art supply store, such as Jerry's. I second the Prismacolor pencils as well. I picked mine up from Michaels. They are under 2 bucks each I think. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ThatJeffGuy Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 And use them on top of the flat coat, not the gloss Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toadwbg Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 I third the Prismacolor pencil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy Snap Captain Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 What colour do you use in the Primsacolor pencil? Just found a distributor in Oz and would like to pick one up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 What colour do you use in the Primsacolor pencil? Just found a distributor in Oz and would like to pick one up. Uhh,Umm,Try the "Silver" ones. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy Snap Captain Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Uhh,Umm,Try the "Silver" ones. Curt Thanks Curt <_< The reason I asked is that I read on another thread somewhere that others use grey instead of silver as it looks better scale wise. There's a range of both colours. Just wanted to see which particular one the guys used. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Just4kiks Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 (edited) One thing I saw was the salt technique. Another thing i would advise maybe, for example, your painting a white Su-27 nose. Paint silver under the white, dab the parts you want chipped with enamel thinner for enamel, and acrylic thinner for acrylic, and take a needle or something small and shred the white away, make sure to do it soft, or you'll penetrate the silver. look at what this user did with his su-27 nose http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=264186&hl=su-27&st=20 Edited March 27, 2014 by Just4kiks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk10 Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 (edited) As strange as it may sound, flat white works very well to represent flaking paint on 1/72 models (tends to fool the eye at normal viewing distance). Apply it with a tooth pic as noted earlier or (with some practice) dry brushing with a very small paint brush will also work. For larger model another trick is one that model railroaders have used for years. Paint your model with a base coat of silver. When dry (24 hrs minimum), using a small bottle of rubber cement and a small paintbrush, gently dab on the rubber cement where you want your peeling paint. Let the rubber cement dry for 1/2 hr or so and then paint on your top coat color. After it's dry (24/48 hrs), apply a piece of clear tape over the locations of the rubber cement and then pull it off. May take a couple of tries. I would suggest that you practice either method before using on your model. HTH Edited March 29, 2014 by Hawk10 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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