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Mask making with Silhouette Portrait


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For a while now I've been wanting to build a 1/48 scale Phantom from VF-111 when it was with CAG 19 on the Roosevelt's last cruise. Mhaz from Vagabond models will be coming out with a decal sheet someday but I wanted to move forward so I was contemplating options. I could attempt to print my own decal for the tail which was a major challenge to get the artwork perfect. The other option I was considering was printing out line art of the tail and cut masks out of tape or on frisket and cut it out by hand.

I did a search for frisket on the forums here and saw quite a few topics. One post that caught my eye was from a year ago by KursadA from Caracal. He talked about a Silhouette Portrait for cutting masks using vinyl. I got excited after reading his post since right downstairs in my wife's studio sits the a fore mentioned cutter.

I had been working on creating the decal/mask for a while using DraftSight 2D drafting software (free autocad like software) which can export drawings in DXF files which the Silhouette Studio software that comes with the cutter can read to create cut files. The Portrait is a less expensive smaller version of the Silhouette Cameo.

SO yesterday I went to Joanne fabrics (which my wife loved when I told her where I was going) since I new they had vinyl for the Portrait. When I got home I played around with it a little to get familiar with it then made my first attempt at cutting a mask. Here is the result:

IMG_3898.jpg

I was surprised at the nice sharp edges and tight angle that the cutter can accomplish. I can't wait to make more masks for schemes you can't find decals for.

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Thanks Richard. I heard that you could use the Tamiya in it but I didn't have any and wanted to try it. Do you just stick the tape to the back side of the feed board and let it go to town?

David. Yes I would recommend it if yo pan on using it They cost about $160 I think. My wife got hers as a present from her son.

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Do you just stick the tape to the back side of the feed board and let it go to town?

Tamiya sheets have their own backing paper, so you stick the sheet+backing paper to the cutting board. For Tamiya tape or other low tack masking tape, you would need to stick them to some sort of backing paper first, such as wax paper, then stick the wax paper to the cutting board:

geardoor_01.jpg

geardoor_02.jpg

geardoor_03.jpg

You do not want to stick the tape without backing paper directly to the feed board because you will never get it off without damaging either the tape or the feed board itself.

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I totally agree. While reading Kursad's post I instantly realized the versatility of such a tool. Didn't take me long to get one. For models, I am using low tack vinyl used for exhibitions. I even made replacement decals for real aircraft interior with high grade vinyl.

The silhouette can cut any Windows font (should be the same on Mac). After cutting the masks, I am using transfer paper to keep the letters aligned and from falling apart.

Just a few examples of my works so far:

Besides making more realistic letters, I used the template for the fuselage band on the 1/72 scale Spitfire to act as a guide for normal Tamiya tape. The blue template was then removed before spraying.

One of the main advantages is to make templates or masks for white backgrounds under decals. The F-16 is 1/144 scale. I can get decent letters as small as 1/4" (6 mm) with it.

Spitfire_Templates_1_800.jpg

SpitfireMkVb_5_800.jpg

Texas_029.jpg

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Sorry if I wasn't clear on the F-16.

Yes, it is the new 1/144 RoG F-16C. The Republic of Texas flag was done by cutting up the kit's decals. If you look close you will see that is not 100% opaque. However, the star could be cut with the cutter and used as a mask for the blue paint over white. I used the cutter to make a mask for the white "shadow" under the black "SA" letters, which are 4mm high (5/32"). The remainder of the black markings is laser printed on clear decal paper at 1200 DPI as demonstrated by spejic here on ARC.

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Im interested in this device since I saw it by first time here in ARC. But Im not sure about precision cutting small letters like serial numbers in 1/72.

Lancer did 4mm high letters, wich is a good start point for answer my questions about this plotter... but anyone tried it in smallest sizes?

Bye for now...

Edited by El pibe vitina
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When you cut through the vinel does it also cut through the backing paper, also where can I get the images for Stars & Bars,Code letters both U.S.& Brit Rondelles and all the other googies I'd need for WWII War Birds Allies and axies?(you know the bad guys);)

Paul

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When you cut through the vinel does it also cut through the backing paper, also where can I get the images for Stars & Bars,Code letters both U.S.& Brit Rondelles and all the other googies I'd need for WWII War Birds Allies and axies?(you know the bad guys);)

Paul

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Very nice! I still get questions about that thread from time to time, I am glad if I was able to help fellow modelers be aware of a new and relatively affordable tool to expand our modeling horizons. I use mine all the time for a bunch of things ranging from masks to decal prototypes.

Edited by KursadA
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Thanks guys but do youse know where can I get the images for Stars & Bars,Code letters both U.S.& Brit Rondeles and all the other goodies I'd need for WWII War Birds Allies and axises?(you know the bad guys);)

Paul

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With the vinyl that Silhouette supplies, when you are ready to cut you tell the software what type of material and it recommends a cutting depth. You also don't need the backing board with their rolled vinyl.

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I got myself a Portrait recently, but have only really messed around with it today and yesterday. I've got some Tamiya tape sheets (from Amazon, where else?).

I've been able to get them to work, but some things still baffle me:

1. I've been through the manuals and the online videos - am I missing something, or are the white guide rollers on the Portrait not adjustable?? Silhouette "tech support" (I use the term loosely) didn't answer this question, they just linked to a YouTube video that showed the Cameo cutter, not the Portrait.

2. The cutting mat that came with my machine is SO sticky that it rips the Tamiya tape's paper backing. Even if I can get it off without ripping it, it curls so badly it turns into a taco chip. Is there a workaround for this other than making the cutting mat less sticky?

3. Is there a way to feed your sheet into the cutter further than just the one little bit that the feed button feeds it??

4. Once you have your Tamiya tape stencils cut, is there a trick to getting them on the model without destroying them?? The tape is very fragile, and it's very easy to bugger up an edge or a corner getting it off the backing paper and onto the model. For things like roundels that require registering several elements, how do you get the whole thing off the backing and onto the model (in a single piece)? Or do you have to take each separate piece off the backing and apply it separately to the model surface?

5. If I wanted to use vinyl, what's the best thin self-adhesive type to use (and where do you get it?)? Some of the vinyl I've seen is relatively thick, which I'm afraid would cause a ridge of paint along the edges if used for a paint mask.

With the Tamiya tape, I'm using a blade setting of 0 and (I think?) one pass cutting. It seems to cut through the tape just fine, but not the paper backing. I see where others are using much deeper (2) blade depth, as well as multi-pass cutting. Any particular reason for this? Seems excessive based on my limited experience. Shallow depth and one pass seems to cut perfectly well.

I'm so used to doing silkscreen art and using traditional decals, this is going to take some learning in the design drawing stage, the cutting stage, the application stage, and the painting stage!

Tks!

J

Edited by Jennings
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I got myself a Portrait recently, but have only really messed around with it today and yesterday. I've got some Tamiya tape sheets (from Amazon, where else?).

I've been able to get them to work, but some things still baffle me:

1. I've been through the manuals and the online videos - am I missing something, or are the white guide rollers on the Portrait not adjustable?? Silhouette "tech support" (I use the term loosely) didn't answer this question, they just linked to a YouTube video that showed the Cameo cutter, not the Portrait.

Haven't found out how to adjust them, either.

2. The cutting mat that came with my machine is SO sticky that it rips the Tamiya tape's paper backing. Even if I can get it off without ripping it, it curls so badly it turns into a taco chip. Is there a workaround for this other than making the cutting mat less sticky?

When cutting directly on sticky suff without a backing paper, I just use the feeding board upside down. With vinyl, which has a thick backing paper, I never use the board. I haven't seen the Tamiya tape sheets yet, so I've got no idea how thin that backing paper is.

4. Once you have your Tamiya tape stencils cut, is there a trick to getting them on the model without destroying them?? The tape is very fragile, and it's very easy to bugger up an edge or a corner getting it off the backing paper and onto the model. For things like roundels that require registering several elements, how do you get the whole thing off the backing and onto the model (in a single piece)? Or do you have to take each separate piece off the backing and apply it separately to the model surface?

I am using transfer paper for that.

5. If I wanted to use vinyl, what's the best thin self-adhesive type to use (and where do you get it?)? Some of the vinyl I've seen is relatively thick, which I'm afraid would cause a ridge of paint along the edges if used for a paint mask.

For templates, I am using Oracal 631, which is a removable non-residue vinyl. I got it from Ebay. However, 3M sells similar products.

If you want to use vinyl permanently like letters or a design for a car, there are a lot of companies that are specialized in that branch. Maybe aske them if you can get some of their vinyl.

With the Tamiya tape, I'm using a blade setting of 0 and (I think?) one pass cutting. It seems to cut through the tape just fine, but not the paper backing. I see where others are using much deeper (2) blade depth, as well as multi-pass cutting. Any particular reason for this? Seems excessive based on my limited experience. Shallow depth and one pass seems to cut perfectly well.

Trial and error. I adjust the blade setting until all the cuts are OK. Not sure how the thickness will effect that. The one time I've tried cutting directly in 3/4" Tamiya tape, I used a speed of 3, single pass and blade setting of 2.

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Hey Jennings, I hope you get your answers as I am considering this purchase as well and would love to know more about it.

I can't help with much in the way of answering anything except that I can tell you the way I THINK you should transfer multiple item cuts, like the roundels you mention. I think what you do would be to cut it out of whatever material you choose. Once it's cut but still on the backing paper, you apply a clear low-tack transfer sheet (frisket film may work?)on the top side of the mask to hold them all in registry. Then once you peel away the backing paper, you simply apply then where you want them while still on the transfer sheet and carefully remove that sheet leaving behind the mask. That's the way vinyl sign guys do it and it should work for this as well.

Bill

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Haven't found out how to adjust them, either.

I didn't see any need to adjust them. Why do you need to adjust them?

I haven't seen the Tamiya tape sheets yet, so I've got no idea how thin that backing paper is.

Tamiya masking sheets from Amazon: Tamiya Masking Sheets

Tamiya masking sheets from ScaleHobbyist: Tamiya Masking Sheets

Backing paper is slightly thicker than the Tamiya sheet itself. Blade depth set to either 1 or 2 should cut the Tamiya sheet without cutting through the backing paper.

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Question: The term "transfer paper" seems to mean different things depending on your point of view. I've always though of it as (and everything I find on eBay seems to be) paper used to heat transfer a design to a piece of fabric.

Is there a different kind of "transfer paper" that you guys are using, or is this another use for heat transfer paper that I'm being really dense and not understanding?

Could someone give us a step by step on how to use transfer paper to move a Tamiya tape design from the Tamiya backing paper onto the model without destroying it?

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