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removing cured cyanoacrylate from a model


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Guys, had a bit of a disaster which I'm too embarrassed to go into, but the end result is a significant quantity of cyano ending up where it shouldn't be on a model. I got what I could off while it was relatively soft, but there's still a film of it with some pooled into corners. Thankfully not on a transparency, but I have to remove as much as I can without destroying the model, and if possible the least paint removed.

I do have some neat acetone, but am not sure what effect it will have long term on the model.

Any suggestions?

Les

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Have you considered simply fine sanding and repainting?

You may lose the paint, no matter what you do. Water will work, but it takes a long time. CA is hydrophilic, but so dense that it takes forever.

Acetone will dissolve the model.

Three possible solutions:

1. Peanut butter. Yes, I said peanut butter. Peanut oil is interesting stuff, and has an incredible ability to creep under things stuck to surfaces. The peanut butter acts as a poultice, holding the oil and keeping it from evaporating, drying, or migrating away from the intended area. This takes a little time (much less than water) but may save the paint.

2. Goo Gone. You'll lose or damage the paint. This is faster (though it may still take some time.

3. Nail polish remover—the kind that uses an inhibited form of acetone. You'll still lose the paint, but it may not damage the model.

Good luck.

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You are going to lose the paint.

So, use that to your advantage. If you used acrylic, like Tamiya or Gunze, a little bit of Windex/Windowlene will dissolve the paint instantly, letting you chip away the glue with a sharpened toothpick/sprue/whatever. If you need it to be a bit more localized, you can hold a Windex-soaked Q-tip on the spot you're working.

The only way to avoid losing any paint is if the glue is in some hard to see crevice, in a thin film, and you simply clear coat over it. Acetone, de-bonder, etc. will all strip paint.

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Thanks Guys. Am I to take it that the debonder is not Acetone based? I've come to the conclusion that I have no choice but to sacrifice the paint so that looks the way to go. Mind you, for sheer curiosity value, the peanut butter option sounds like something I'll try, if nothing else to see the look on my wife's face....

Cheers for all that helped

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I've soaked parts in acetone to remove CA without damaging the parts at all. In fact, not too long ago I had to soak the same part 3 times to remove the CA because I kept messing up the attachment.

Do what you're comfortable doing, though.

Edited by Fly-n-hi
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I've soaked parts in acetone to remove CA without damaging the parts at all. In fact, not too long ago I had to soak the same part 3 times to remove the CA because I kept messing up the attachment.

Do what you're comfortable doing, though.

:huh:/> I find that hard to believe, as styrene is rapidly dissolved by acetone, though some resin parts are not. Also, if the styrene has been coated the coating may provide protection for the styrene.

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:huh:/>/>/> I find that hard to believe, as styrene is rapidly dissolved by acetone, though some resin parts are not. Also, if the styrene has been coated the coating may provide protection for the styrene.

Believe or don't believe it. I've done it.

Edit: I went back to the model that has the part that I soaked. It was a clear part that I assumed was styrene but maybe it was resin...I don't know for sure. So be careful with the acetone if you use it since I'm not sure now.

Edited by Fly-n-hi
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Not meaning to hijack the thread but when you guys say to soak it, what kind of time frame are we looking at? Five minutes? Twenty four hours? Longer? I'm working on the Revellogram A-10 in 1/48 and I, too, botched a spot where I used CA. I misaligned some parts while gluing them. That was about two years ago and I haven't touched it since my screw-up. I'd love to try any of the methods mentioned above but I'd like to get a feel for what kind of time I'd be looking at.

Thanks!

Eric

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There are CA glue debonders and then there's Great Planes debonder, which I've found works much better than anything I've used before. It will not harm plastic, so I doubt it has acetone in it, but it will eat paint readily.

Once I found this stuff I'm actually quite messy with my CA application, because I know I can remove the excess later, assuming there's no paint to worry about. I use a Q-tip or microbrush soaked in the stuff and rub the offending area until the glue breaks down into a sticky mess, then I wipe the softened glue away with either another Q-tip or shop towel, also soaked with debonder. This stuff works on fresh CA glue and glue that's been dry for years.

CAGlue.jpg

Guys, had a bit of a disaster which I'm too embarrassed to go into, but the end result is a significant quantity of cyano ending up where it shouldn't be on a model. I got what I could off while it was relatively soft, but there's still a film of it with some pooled into corners. Thankfully not on a transparency, but I have to remove as much as I can without destroying the model, and if possible the least paint removed.

I do have some neat acetone, but am not sure what effect it will have long term on the model.

Any suggestions?

Les

For your problem Les, I would definitely avoid acetone and stick with a CA glue debonder. Use a Q-tip or cloth soaked with debonder and rub the affected area until it starts to lift. You might need several applications of debonder and new applicators to get all the glue off, but it will come off eventually. For really tough to remove areas, a small puddle of debonder over the affected area will really get things going. One really good thing about using debonder is that it won't ruin the areas where you want the glue to remain. The glue will soften alright, but after drying it will get hard and clear again.

Good luck!

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Ok, since there is a doubt as to whether or not the parts I soaked were resin or styrene parts I decided to experiment on some parts that I know for sure are styrene plastic. I soaked these (spare) parts for a few seconds and YES they began to melt. So the parts that I soaked before must have been resin or something else.

So don't use Acetone unless its on resin.

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There are CA glue debonders and then there's Great Planes debonder, which I've found works much better than anything I've used before. It will not harm plastic, so I doubt it has acetone in it, but it will eat paint readily.

Once I found this stuff I'm actually quite messy with my CA application, because I know I can remove the excess later, assuming there's no paint to worry about. I use a Q-tip or microbrush soaked in the stuff and rub the offending area until the glue breaks down into a sticky mess, then I wipe the softened glue away with either another Q-tip or shop towel, also soaked with debonder. This stuff works on fresh CA glue and glue that's been dry for years.

Is it thin and run everywhere and smell a bit fishy? I think it may be a nitromethane based debonder. I've been looking for a nitromethane based debonder since Hobby Lobby stopped carrying one. It works much better than acetone to remove CA in my opinon.

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Is it thin and run everywhere and smell a bit fishy? I think it may be a nitromethane based debonder. I've been looking for a nitromethane based debonder since Hobby Lobby stopped carrying one. It works much better than acetone to remove CA in my opinon.

It is very thin, but there is no smell and there are no contents described on the bottle. I have no idea what it's made from, but it works great!

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DO NOT soak styrene in nail polish remover for more than 20-30 seconds, otherwise it'll melt (let alone full strength acetone!!). I made a mistake of forgetting that I soaked an F-15 vert stab in nail polish remover to remove Tamiya rattle can paint. I meant to leave it only for a minute, or less, but then got distracted and forgot all about it until a couple of hours later. The part still looked like vert stab, but all twisted and melted on the edges.

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FYI, Triarius, peanut butter is also great at removing chewing gum that has gotten itself stuck to, well, you know how gum can be. Just like peanut oil, citric oil works. That's the power in Goo Gone. However, my first choice would be the CA debonder.

I have one more item that may or may not work. I have never used it on polystyrene plastic. I know it will take the paint off, but losing your paint job is a foregone conclusion, anyway. The product is Castrol Super Clean. I use it all the time on different projects. It is an extremely strong de-greaser. It is available at WalMart. It is a purple liquid with the consistency of water. Read the directions. It's strong stuff. It may need to be diluted. When diluting, use water. Try it on a test bed first. This is just a stab in the dark, so treat it that way. Maybe our local "all things chemical" guy, Triarius can chime in on this one. Again, try it on some sprue or any piece of scrap polystyrene plastic. Good Luck!!!

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If it is nitromethane, don't they sell that for glow plug engine fuel? I seem to remember you could add more nitro for a bit more power, or for easier starting maybe?

Les

Nitromethane is used as fuel in RCs and Top Fuel dragsters. I imagine the debonder based on nitromethane has a much lower concentration and has some additives.

FYI, Triarius, peanut butter is also great at removing chewing gum that has gotten itself stuck to, well, you know how gum can be. Just like peanut oil, citric oil works. That's the power in Goo Gone. However, my first choice would be the CA debonder.

I have one more item that may or may not work. I have never used it on polystyrene plastic. I know it will take the paint off, but losing your paint job is a foregone conclusion, anyway. The product is Castrol Super Clean. I use it all the time on different projects. It is an extremely strong de-greaser. It is available at WalMart. It is a purple liquid with the consistency of water. Read the directions. It's strong stuff. It may need to be diluted. When diluting, use water. Try it on a test bed first. This is just a stab in the dark, so treat it that way. Maybe our local "all things chemical" guy, Triarius can chime in on this one. Again, try it on some sprue or any piece of scrap polystyrene plastic. Good Luck!!!

The main chemical in Goo Gone and similar products is petroleum distillates a.k.a. naptha and similar to mineral spirits. They mainly add citrus oil to cover up the smell and make you think it's environmentally friendly. I use mineral spirits to remove labels and stickers that a soak in hot water won't touch.

Super Clean, Purple Power, etc. won't harm polystyrene and works well for stripping most model paint, though, there are easier and safer alternatives to stripping acrylics.

Edited by SoaringArmor
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I've heard that both Super Clean and Purple Power work, but as I've never used them, I've no idea what's in them. I'm strictly a Simple Green guy, and let me tell you, it isn't easy being green … :woot.gif:/>

Goo Gone does, indeed, contain petroleum distillates, though of milder sorts. However, the citrus oil is not a mere cover up, but what makes the product more effective than the solvents alone. It act in the same way as described for peanut oil. As a result, less solvent is needed.

Ribbittt!

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I've heard that both Super Clean and Purple Power work, but as I've never used them, I've no idea what's in them. I'm strictly a Simple Green guy, and let me tell you, it isn't easy being green … :woot.gif:/>/>

Goo Gone does, indeed, contain petroleum distillates, though of milder sorts. However, the citrus oil is not a mere cover up, but what makes the product more effective than the solvents alone. It act in the same way as described for peanut oil. As a result, less solvent is needed.

Ribbittt!

How do you get rid of the Simple Green smell after a long soak in it?

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How do you get rid of the Simple Green smell after a long soak in it?

First off, what do you mean by a long soak? I usually don't leave anything in SG for long enough that it acquires the scent. On the occasions I have, it has usually gone in a few hours to days. You should rinse thoroughly, though. I also tend to dry anything soaked or even just partially washed in any solution, especially one containing water, in a forced air dehydrator for several hours. Few things are more frustrating than painting a model, turning it over to paint another surface, and having that last little bit of rinse water ruin an otherwise perfect paint application.

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First off, what do you mean by a long soak? I usually don't leave anything in SG for long enough that it acquires the scent. On the occasions I have, it has usually gone in a few hours to days. You should rinse thoroughly, though. I also tend to dry anything soaked or even just partially washed in any solution, especially one containing water, in a forced air dehydrator for several hours. Few things are more frustrating than painting a model, turning it over to paint another surface, and having that last little bit of rinse water ruin an otherwise perfect paint application.

Over night to strip enamel paint.

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Over night to strip enamel paint.

If letting it sit for a day or two is not adequate, the forced air dehydrator or a similar arrangement, even leaving it in a warm location with air circulation for a few days.

If I have to remove enamels (rare, as I rarely use them) odorless mineral spirits usually work faster, and evaporate more rapidly. The solvent also contains nothing that will interfere with the enamel paint.

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