Joel_W Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 Jari & David, Thanks so much for posting those pictures. I saved the ones I didn't already have. I noticed a few other interesting things, the walkway on the the spine isn't solid, but applied in sections. I have a few dozen pictures that I will be using to help with the weathering. One thing that is becoming more apparent is that my decision not to pre-shade is correct. Looking at all the pictures, one sees that nearly all the panel lines are dark, but not shaded. The paint fading is totally random in respect to pattern, and there seems to be as much dirt, and grime from operational use as what Mother Nature has applied to the A-6's exterior. Shaka, all the links work fine for me. And thanks for your positive support through my build. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 (edited) I decided to paint the radome with Mr. Color's lacquer based paints since they have the exact color tan #318. I thinned it 1:1 using Tamyia's Yellow cap Lacquer Thinner. Went on smooth as silk, but I had a rather difficult time with the tip clogging. If and when I switch over to Mr. Color paints, I'll have to buy their thinner/retarder, which should take care of that problem. I also painted the protective coating on the leading edges of the slats the same tan color once Scott had explained what the coating is, and what color it should be. Another round of discussions concerning if all the A-6Es had protective wing and fuselage spine walks. Appears that most did. Then the color issue once again raised it's ugly head, but it was quickly sorted out with info and pictures from ScotVA36, Steve Belanger, & Jarik (Finn). Thanks guys for helping me keep my build moving forward. I Masked out the wing and spine walkways,as well as the anti glare panel. To create the darkish Gray color I wanted, I mixed Tamiya FX-63 German Gray and a few drops of FX-69 Nato Black for the base color. Finally, masked and painted the flaps and Flaperons Tamiya Fx-2 White. Here's a few pictures to illustrate the above work. The Slats, Flaps/Flaperons are just dry fitted, so they kept on moving out of position. Joel Edited August 30, 2014 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sledge Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Joel, that Intruder is coming along very nicely. Very crisp and clear paint job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 Sledge, Thanks so much for your encouraging comments. I was really thrilled at how the Mr. Color paints looks. Will have to buy their Thinner/retarder as I slowly switch over form Tamiya to Mr. Color. But I have almost 36 bottles of Tamiya paints to use 1st. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peterpools Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 JA Super progress and some nice open field running sorted out the details and colors. Keep 'em coming Bro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wardog Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Joel, Awesome progress. I'm really enjoying the fast pace this bird is coming along at and of course the pics. I have a few of the Mr. Color lacquer based paints which I've yet to use so I'm glad you described how they performed for you. From what I understand their flat paints dry with a semi-gloss finish to them, was that the case for you? I've used Model Master paints as far back as I can remember and just recently have wanted to venture out and try out other brands. I hear their acrylic line is awesome but not sold here in the U.S. I finally gave up trying to acquire them through various sources as I always came up empty handed. Good luck with the rest of the build. Elmo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted August 31, 2014 Author Share Posted August 31, 2014 Pete, Thanks for helping me to make the right build decisions. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jgrease Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 Looks great Joel! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 John, Thanks so much for stopping by, and the thumbs up for the build to date. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A-10 LOADER Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 Awesome build so far Joel, keep her going. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 Awesome build so far Joel, keep her going. Steve Steve, Thanks for taking the time to stop by, and your most encouraging comment. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 (edited) Joel, Awesome progress. I'm really enjoying the fast pace this bird is coming along at and of course the pics. I have a few of the Mr. Color lacquer based paints which I've yet to use so I'm glad you described how they performed for you. From what I understand their flat paints dry with a semi-gloss finish to them, was that the case for you? I've used Model Master paints as far back as I can remember and just recently have wanted to venture out and try out other brands. I hear their acrylic line is awesome but not sold here in the U.S. I finally gave up trying to acquire them through various sources as I always came up empty handed. Good luck with the rest of the build. Elmo Elmo, My apologies for missing your post. Thank you for your most encouraging post on the A-6E build. Actually, I kind of thought this it's going more at a snails pace. Guess a lot of that has to do with the complexity of a 1/48 scale Jet compared to my usual comfort zone of 1/48 scale props. I found the Mr. Color Tan color to dry with a slight shine, not a true matt finish, which is a good thing as I would just have to polish it out to prep for the gloss base for decaling. Testors/Model Master Enamels were my standard go to paints back in the 70s. Since coming back to modeling about 5+ years ago, I've tried more brands and types of paints then I ever thought would be available in our hobby. I settled on Tamiya Acrylics over MM enamels, but every so often I have 2nd thoughts. I'm not overly fond of having to constantly mix basic USAF & USN WW11 standard colors, but now I'm finding that same necessity with 1970s and up USN colors. Mr. Color seems to have an extensive range of colors, and they're available from Sprue Brothers, who I spend far to much money with these days. Well, at least according to my wife. The lacquer fumes aren't an issue since I have my own model/computer room, and I built a paint booth that fits in and out of the window in just seconds. Joel Edited September 2, 2014 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 (edited) Time for another update. This time I switched my focus and built up the two boarding ladders. The base which is plastic has 4 ejector marks on the inside face. I guess that they decided that was the better of two evils rather then putting them on the back, which if one closes the boarding ladders, they're now on the front surface. A little thinned Green Stuff took quick care of them The rest of each ladder was built up using PE. Then a coat of Tamiya Gray Primer, which I let dry for a hour or so, and then a few coats of Tamiya X-7 Red, simply because I forgot to buy a new bottle of FX-7 flat Red. Oh well, another color that will become Mr. Color. Cont. Joel Edited September 2, 2014 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 Cont. Next up I carefully masked the canopy which is absolutely perfect. It's so crystal clear that I didn't even consider a bath in Pledge. I masked the canopy with strips of Tamiya tape starting with 1/4 inch strips to outline the frame, then filling in with various pcs. The primed with Tamiya Gray Primer, let dry for 1 hour, then painted with a mix of Tamiya FX-20 Medium Gray & FX 2Flat White to create Lite Gull Gray. The inside shelf that is attached to the canopy where the clear glass ends and the frame starts has a little bit of detailing. I just added a few wires and simulated the mounting brackets with strip sheet. Next up was priming and painting with just Tamiya FX-20 to represent Dark Gull Gray. I know it doesn't look like a lot of work, but it took me two full days to accomplish all of this. Like I said, before, I build at a snail's pace. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peterpools Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 JA Fantastic work on the boarding ladders and canopy. Looking absolutely top notch for sure. I stopped dipping my canopies in Future way back when and just polish them with Meguiar's liquid rubbing compound and then the Nuvos Plastic Polishing System. Comes out crystal clear and never a worry about the masking tape pulling up the Future. Bro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 Bro, thanks. Finally, I'm getting the hang of PE. The secret was switching to Gorilla Glue. Still need to buy that Novus system to use in conjunction with my Micro mesh pads. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peterpools Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 JA Yup, the right way to go Bro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ScotVA36 Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Looking great Joel keep up the work my friend. Scott Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 Looking great Joel keep up the work my friend. Scott Scott, Thanks for the words of encouragement. It's certainly turning into a labor of love. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sledge Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Keep up the great work Joel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chuck540z3 Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Great work Joel! I really like those PE ladders. Huge improvement over just the kit plastic and they are very striking in deep red. I have a couple of small suggestions if I may. If it's not too late, lightly sand the canopy frame with 2000 grit sandpaper before you remove the masks. This will smooth out the flat paint and you won't need to worry about scratching the clear canopy. For the rear canopy housing, it looks from the pic that the paint may have filled the nice rivet detail a bit too much. After a light sanding, you can still use a needle in a pin vice to make those rivets "pop" again, followed by maybe a weathering wash to make them stand out more. If you don't do any of the above, no big deal. Everything still looks great. Cheers, Chuck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Wow - the ladders look amazing!!! Snail's pace? I don't think so. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ScotVA36 Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 FYI, we would paint non-skid on the steps of the B/L usually it was black in color it would wear off pretty quick to, just some more tidbits of info for you. Again looking good:) Scott Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 (edited) Keep up the great work Joel. Sledge, Thanks for your encouraging posts, and for following the build. Wow - the ladders look amazing!!! Snail's pace? I don't think so. crackerjazz, Thanks for your most positive comment on how the ladders turned out. Sure feels like a snails pace to me, but at least I'm making steady progress. Joel Edited September 3, 2014 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 Great work Joel! I really like those PE ladders. Huge improvement over just the kit plastic and they are very striking in deep red. I have a couple of small suggestions if I may. If it's not too late, lightly sand the canopy frame with 2000 grit sandpaper before you remove the masks. This will smooth out the flat paint and you won't need to worry about scratching the clear canopy. For the rear canopy housing, it looks from the pic that the paint may have filled the nice rivet detail a bit too much. After a light sanding, you can still use a needle in a pin vice to make those rivets "pop" again, followed by maybe a weathering wash to make them stand out more. If you don't do any of the above, no big deal. Everything still looks great. Cheers, Chuck Chuck, Thanks for stopping by and having a look at my build. I know that this time of the year your on a modeling sabbatical, enjoying the summer time weather up north. I just took a good long look at the rear section of the canopy, and it doesn't look like the primer nor the paint filled in the rivet and panel lines. I think it's mostly my lack of proper indoor photography. All these pictures were taken with the pop up flash on my Nikon D90. I usually reserve the the floods and fill lights for the finished pictures, as I tend to just grab my camera and take needed pictures as I go. One thing that I will certainly do is lightly sand down the paint with a Micro Mesh 4,000 pad to avoid a nasty ridges when I remove the tape. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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