Steven H. McLain Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I just wanted to share with everyone about using Modeling Clay as a seam filler. I have been using never hardening modeling clay as a seam filler for many years. It doesn't mess up your molded in details and is easy to use and clean up. There are several types, some air dry, some stay soft. I have never used the ones that harden if you put them in the oven, it would melt your model. I have never had any problems with painting over it. I use white or light gray colors. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grant in West Oz Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Nice tip which I plan to employ very soon. Thanks. I have a similarly inconspicuous tip. I have used wax crayons to fill gaps around canopies, tail and fin joints etc. Make a blend to match your colour and warm it, then rub into the gap. Filled and blended to level, may be matt coated. G Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Just4kiks Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Yeah, i use modelling clay. I was planning on starting a topic about it, but i thought everybody probably used it. You can also use it for masking. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichardL Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Milliput is almost like a modeling clay, and it can be blended and sanded very easily. Plus, it takes primers and paints like any other fillers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
a4s4eva Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 I've found it shrinks and cracks when drying. Proper modelling fillers or magi sculp/milli put work better IMHO Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trojansamurai Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 I've found it shrinks and cracks when drying. Proper modelling fillers or magi sculp/milli put work better IMHO Agree. It also releases oils over time, which can a) stain the paint around it and B) cause loss of adhesion for surrounding paint. Under certain conditions, it may very well not have adverse effects for a very long time. But what those conditions are, I don't know, so personally, I wouldn't take a chance. Virtually all pliable and "non-drying" materials have oils in them to give them those properties. However, climate, air contaminants and reaction to other chemicals do cause those properties to break down eventually. How many of you have had to replace rubber hoses in your cars? I'm sure Steven has had good experience with it in the past, so maybe good to share the exact brand just in case others do want to try it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 I can see using non-hardening clay for small cracks and seems, but not for blending uneven surfaces. During the course of model construction you're bound to touch the clay, and I would imagine causing a small indent from the pressure of your finger(s) is possible. Are you saying that the non-hardening clays don't shrink over time if covered with paint? That's certainly an option I've never considered, but if I don't have to sand, polish, and rescribe, I'm going to try it. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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