Lancing_Prowler Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 So the other day was the first time i picked up the airbrush in a little over a year. Felt good to be working on something again. However, every time the paint would start flowing, it would splatter a little bit every time i started. Its a little frustrating when trying to do smaller lines when pre-shading. For reference, i was using a Passche Talon gravity feed with Tamiya acrylics at about 20 psi. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dkobayashi Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 Possibly your needle is bent? That has given me splatter problems before. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 You should always start your airflow away from the model, it's common for paint to build up on the needle and the first hit on the trigger will launch the blob, also check that your needle is fully seated. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toadwbg Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 (edited) You should always start your airflow away from the model, it's common for paint to build up on the needle and the first hit on the trigger will launch the blob, also check that your needle is fully seated. Curt This You may also need more thinning and some retarder. What is your thinner? Edited July 24, 2014 by toadwbg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grey Ghost 531 Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 Possibly your needle is bent? That has given me splatter problems before. Me too, this is what I was going to suggest. If it's acrylics, it might be drying on the tip of the needle, that has more or less the same effect. Retarder/flow enhacer might help that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 Generally I air brush Tamiya Acrylics thinned 1:1 with their yellow cap lacquer thinner. I preset my compressor to 20 psi which gives me a flow psi of 12 psi. One other point that could be causing your problem if it isn't a bent needle, is to add the thinner to the cup before the paint. The other way around will cause some paint to be forced into the needle either unthinned, or not completely thinned. Both cases will cause splattering or clogging. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chuck540z3 Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 About 90% of the time my airbrush (Iwata) sputters, it's because I have some crap in the nozzle. I spray away from the model to initiate the paint flow as well, but if it keeps sputtering, you have a flow problem at the needle and you should clean it completely. Acrylic paints are famous for drying at the tip, so it could be that as well- which is sort of the same thing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lancing_Prowler Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 Thanks for all the advice. I thinned the paints with isopropyl and i think i didn't use enough. I know with the Tamiya acrylics, you don't have to thin much, but it seemed that i wasn't using enough. I added some more and seems to be working fine now and also after a deep clean. But, i ordered new needles anyway just in case. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Lancing_Prowler, As I said before, you need to thin Tamiya Acrylics 50/50 whether you use their X20-A, Lacquer Thinner, or generic 70% Isopropyl Alcohol. 91% evaporates way too fast causing other issues. I would also add a few drops of Vallejo's Retarder Medium, or another brand which slows the drying time. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk One Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 In general, when people recommend a spraying PSI are they talking about "pre-trigger" PSI or "trigger-down" PSI? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 In general, when people recommend a spraying PSI are they talking about "pre-trigger" PSI or "trigger-down" PSI? Most people are referring to the static psi (pre_trigger), as the majority don't seem to be aware that the psi drops when your depress the air release button. And that's the important psi, as it's what you're actually painting with. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lancing_Prowler Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 In general, when people recommend a spraying PSI are they talking about "pre-trigger" PSI or "trigger-down" PSI? Most people are referring to the static psi (pre_trigger), as the majority don't seem to be aware that the psi drops when your depress the air release button. And that's the important psi, as it's what you're actually painting with. Joel When I say 20 psi, I'm talking about "trigger-down". I always adjust my air pressure with the trigger down so i know exactly how much air pressure i pushing. "Pre-trigger" is about 31-32 psi to achieve 20 psi "trigger-down" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 (edited) Lance_Prowler, That flow psi rate is way too high. You can shoot neat (straight out of the bottle) at that psi. The problem is that the surface ends up really textured, and you get all sorts of splatter, which would be over spray if the paint was thinned correctly. I would suggest that you try to thin as I suggested, and drop your flow rate a min of 5 psi, then adjust from there. I'm pretty sure you'll see a major difference. Joel Edited July 29, 2014 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.