Which Decal softener for DrawDecal sheets?

[ChrisRRR]

Hello dear Hive mind ;)/>/>

I'm currently bulding a Revell of Germany 737-800 with the Alaska Airlines Decal Sheet from DrawDecal.

Problem is that I don't get the decals to sink into the panel lines. I've used Gunze Mr. Mark Softer on all my previous builds, and so far it worked excellent on decals from Revell, Eduard, Flying Colors etc.

On the DrawDecal ones it dissolves the transparent carrier nicely, but the printed part of the decal showed only mild interest into reacting with the softener.

With a combination of Future and literally flooding the decals with the Ginze softener I got one to sink in a *little* bit, but it is still very thick, and it took 2-3 applications to get the result.

Tried yesterday the Revell of Germany softener, but this worked even less.

So my question: With which decal softener did you have good results with DrawDecal sheets?

I think the only other games in town are Micro Sol/Set and the 3 different softeners from DACO Products. But I don't want to clutter my shelf with more bottles than necessary, therefore it would be nice to get a heads up on which works well.

Thanks! (Probably taking a few sample pics this evening)

Edited August 19, 2014 by ChrisRRR

[Netz]

Solveset is pretty hot, I'd try that with a brush-load of water.

Did you try cutting the decal along the panel line? that will help, and you take less risk of frying your decal.

Curt

[Crazy Snap Captain]

Use a new #11 Xacto and carefully slice the decal along the panel line. Then apply softener of choice.

[arnobiz]

+1 for cutting the decal along the panel line. it will

1/ make it easier for it to conform as there will be no resistance from the decal tension strength

2/ allow the softener to go under the decal too in the critical areas

Good luck,

Arnaud

[2qwik4u]

I haven't used Draw Decals before, although I do have some in my stash. On other brands of decals that become problimatic, a small application of heat can be very helpful as well as the setting solution. Usually, this means holding up near an incandecent lightbulb for a second or two at a time until the decal softens up. On really stubborn decals, I have actually used a hairdryer at a range of about 3 feet (that's 1 meter for you metric guys) to soften the decal. Scale Motorsports has a really good tutorial on how to apply their carbon fiber decals to large surfaces, and they also advocate the use of the lightbulb method to help soften the decals. You just need to be very careful and work you way up slowly or you would run the risk of damaging the decal, or the paint surface.

-Dave

[galileo1]

I read that the Daco orange label decal softener works wonders with stubborn decals like the one you describe. Haven't tried it myself but I guess you could try.

Rob

[habu2]

... a small application of heat can be very helpful as well as the setting solution. Usually, this means holding up near an incandecent lightbulb for a second or two at a time until the decal softens up.

I use warm water when soaking the decals to achieve the same result. Water is in a small metal bowl which is sitting on a hot plate / coffee cup warmer.

[ChrisRRR]

Thanks for all the replies. Tried the hot water, but no difference. With lots of Mr. Mark Softer and Future acting as a glue I was able to coax most of them around the complex surfaces.

But they still are really thick and form a noticeable relief on the fuselage.

I'm in the US soon, so I'll try to get hold of a bottle of Solvaset for the next set of DrawDecals.

The current Alaska, well, I'll probably just call it a day here, since I found out today that the carrier film has yellowed quite a bit. Didn't notice it while on the sheet (continuos carrier film on blue backing paper).

Thinking of it, I could have sworn that the yellowing was not there a few days ago…

[UKPonchoMan]

Draw Decals are printed differently to normal decals and the ink is on top of the film. Therefore, setting solutions have no effect as they do not soften the ink, only the film underneath it. The only way I've found to get around this is to cut the decal at all the panel lines as suggested, and use a makeup sponge to press the decal down into the surface. It's not perfect, but does help to settle it down...

[swallows]

If I remember well each Decal set contains generic instruction for the application: they say that the printing ink is quite stiff and so more difficult to have the decals conform to tricky surfaces. The suggested tip is to use very hot (not boiling) water to soften the decal.

I'm going by memory not having the instructions in front of me, however I suggest you contact directly the producer Greg Drawbaugh, he's always been very helpful and honest regarding his products.

Good luck

Fabio

[ChrisRRR]

Tried the very hot water, but to be honest the sheet already had some time on the shelf (~3 years), so bugging Greg with problems of such an old sheet...don't know.

I managed to get the decals conform to most surfaces anyway by now. Gallons of Mr.Surfacer to the resuce, applied daily over a week.

Besides the yellowing of the carrier film, since the ink is so thick the areas where I had to patch are very noticeable, so I might try to get some wisdom concerning this from Greg...

Edit: Alright, contactet Greg. If I get fresh information from him I'll share it here :)

Edited August 29, 2014 by ChrisRRR

[ChrisRRR]

Speaking of Solvaset, I'm visiting several Cities on the east coast during the next weeks.

Is there a hobby shop you could recommend where i might obtain said potion? Preferable somewhere in the inner city, since i'm sure the Misses won't appreciate big deviations from course just to buy a bottle of Nonsens ;-)

Cities are

New York

Washington

Savannah

Charleston

Miami

Edited August 31, 2014 by ChrisRRR