talan2000 Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Hi Guys I just got a big box of eBay purchases of "vintage" models. Apparently that means stored in the attic under a leaky roof. Not happy. Sadly the biggest disappointment is a Revell large scale RF-4E (1/32) with an awesome Immelman / Bavarian scheme. When I opened the ratty looking box it appears that the sheet has been water damaged. I've scanned the sheet (one of the blue checkers is torn but the scanner kinda hides it). The lettering is yellowed. I've searched for replacements to no avail - at least not with this scheme. I could bail and make an entirely new F-4 (and I don't really care about historical accuracy per se, I just liked the cool Bavarian look as I have nostalgia for time spent there). Anyway - how would you guys go about salvaging these decals - or, if necessary to abandon them, what would you replace them with. I'm not anywhere near the modeler/painter I'd need to be to paint the blue checker pattern by hand unless there is some technique you could share for a weekend/non-master modeler! I've read about Liquid Decal Film -- would it work in this case (what about the yellowed lettering? Trim them really close after soaking? Does this stuff really work with old decals? Would applying them after soaking with future make any difference Thanks Todd Quote Link to post Share on other sites
k5ikl Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 PM sent.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oggy Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Not sure about salvaging them, but as for the yellowing, I have had luck placing them in a window for a few days. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
talan2000 Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 PM sent.... And Jerry (k5ikl (I detect some HAM radio in there)) comes in For The Win! Many thanks to Jerry for sharing his own set of Bavarian Bundesluftwaffe decals with me to replace these tired tatered ones! Thanks again! Now I may put some of that decal solution on one or two to see if it will help restore them! And thanks also for the sunlight tip - can't really hurt at this point Todd Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shake zula the mic rula Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 I love a happy ending. :crying2:/> Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jfmajor60 Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 I second using sunlight and decal film if you wish to save the old sheet. This is what I use, I just paint it on with a brush it goes on kind of thick but once it dries you can't even tell its there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phasephantomphixer Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 Yes, taped to window to reduce yellowing. Also can paint, future/cure, apply decals, apply future again, then micro mesh sand away carrier (yellowed) and final future to seal the deal. And Micro Superfilm is GREAT STUFF, but very important to ONLY apply it within 20 minutes of decal application. That is when it is strong, yet flexible and not hard/dry. For several large decals such as this sheet, cut apart the decals you will be using, coat with Superfilm and apply 15 to 20 minutes later. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
talan2000 Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 Yes, taped to window to reduce yellowing. Also can paint, future/cure, apply decals, apply future again, then micro mesh sand away carrier (yellowed) and final future to seal the deal. And Micro Superfilm is GREAT STUFF, but very important to ONLY apply it within 20 minutes of decal application. That is when it is strong, yet flexible and not hard/dry. For several large decals such as this sheet, cut apart the decals you will be using, coat with Superfilm and apply 15 to 20 minutes later. PPP thanks for the specific info on how to use the stuff! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phasephantomphixer Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 PPP thanks for the specific info on how to use the stuff! Sure, just what I had found from ignoring the bottle instructions and applied a good layer a day before. It had just hardened and had no benefit. Use a wide flat (like what scenery artists use) brush so you can load it good, then coat in one to two strokes, or it can get chunky on you. Do one at a time coat and apply on large or long decals. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
balls47 Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 (edited) I can tell you from experience that sunlight will make the yellow go away. I just read where a guy taped them to the inside of his windshield on a hot sunny day, and it worked great for him. As far as coating to save the sheet, I have always used Microscale's "Liquid Decal Film." I thin it, 50/50 with denatured alcohol. Dust on two or three coats, one right after the other. I've also used the decal solution from Testor's that comes in a rattle can. I've only used it with their decal paper, but have read where others have used it successfully to coat homemade decals on other manufacturer's decal paper. Good Luck!!! Edited September 22, 2014 by balls47 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
balls47 Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Sorry, I just got rid of a USMC sheet from that kit. I have had it for quite a few years, but it was in great shape. They're out there. Maybe you could put a post in the want ads here on ARC. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jfmajor60 Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 And Micro Superfilm is GREAT STUFF, but very important to ONLY apply it within 20 minutes of decal application. That is when it is strong, yet flexible and not hard/dry. I've never used a decal with the Superfilm thats been on for a long time, does it tend to become brittle long term? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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