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Aussie F-18A Op. Falconer


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Thanks all guys,much appreciated!

Arnaud I hope to see one build of your,I remember some great project like the F-14 in maintenance,or the two ( F-18 and F-14 ) cat shots and ,of course, the build for this GB...

Small update: I said in the previous post of the bad fit of the intakes trunks but to be honest I was able to sand smooth the surface with the help of some melted plastic but without great headaches,here how look .

1sp4i1.jpg[/url][/img]

a3Bry2.jpg[/url][/img]

I modified the splitter plate with the help of the Eduard' PE;I've used some CA glue to fill the edge' gaps,sanded and add some Mr. Surfacer 1000 ( still to sand ).

DVC6zG.jpg[/url][/img]

I've glued the Wolfpack wings that fit almost perfect and now the model start to remember an Hornet.

vlctsk.jpg[/url][/img]

This is the left wing joint with some melted plastic.

1UvGPk.jpg[/url][/img]

Unfortunately a dry fit with the lower fuselage show a HUGE gap all around the joint...

5Mnspr.jpg[/url][/img]

uBzWXI.jpg[/url][/img]

And the MLG legs modified.

To be honest I think that some of the small struts (?) are too tiny,also the camera supermacro show some issue,but I'm happy !

CANGgP.jpg[/url][/img]

And finally the loadout of my Hornet.

ZXtZcV.jpg[/url][/img]

That's all for now, I hope to show you some significant progress in the next days.

Thanks again for your support and for watching,

Good night,

Gianni.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good day all guys and ALF,thx for your words.

Ok,some days passed from the last post but I made some progress;the great amount of time of these days was dedicated to fill,sand,fill,sand,rescribing,ecc...so much of the build look immutated but I assure you that I worked hard on this build.

The intakes:with the fuselage glued,I proceed to glue the splitter plate and the result?

Judge you

lDdKoM.jpg[/url][/img]

M47EMS.jpg[/url][/img]

As evident,large gap that force me to use both Tamiya putty and Magic Sculpt epoxy putty.The result look good...

EhaAqL.jpg[/url][/img]

...until a coat of promer!

S48ikE.jpg[/url][/img]

After some fill & sand session finally a smooth surface.

TljZuG.jpg[/url][/img]

KMLDOe.jpg[/url][/img]

With the intakes done,I decided to carve the small air inlet under the left LERX.

UliEox.jpg[/url][/img]

P.S. All this job to obtain this.

VDqahY.jpg[/url][/img]

Moving to the rear fuselage,I've filled the area with melted plastic followed by the customary sanding and rescribing job;following the drawing on the DACO book,I've corrected the panel lines of the kit and added some PE details.

tOtgVf.jpg[/url][/img]

l3KDl9.jpg[/url][/img]

As you can see,after every step I washed with the Tamiya panel line accent color to check the recribing job.

End of part one.

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Part two.

The nose area: after some research,both on book and Internet,I noted that a nose panel line,the lower one that run from the splitter plate to the radome,in proximity of the latter curve downward.

A image is better than 1000 words( if I violated any copyright please delete immediately).

I7ZRB9.jpg[/url][/img]

So,after some putty & sanding,I rescribed the line;also I take the opportunity to replace the kit AN/ALR-67 pointy antennas with new ones in stretched styrene.

cJpE0Y.jpg[/url][/img]

On the upper part,I've replaced the IFF'bird slicers with new in PE ( only the bases in reality,like virtually all the other model antennas,I place the vertical part only when ready to paint the bird).

TDhrQj.jpg[/url][/img]

Moving on the MLG bays,this is what has kept me busy over the weekend.I'm relatively happy with the result (still miss something).

TvBmt4.jpg[/url][/img]

I forget a thing from the previous post,do you remember that the fit of the lower and upper central fuselage create huge gaps?

I solved the problem with some square-section plastirod glued with CA all around the upper edge of the lower fuselage part.

EoPHHA.jpg[/url][/img]

After glue the two parts,I used some melted plastice to fill the small defect and sanded smooth.A Tamyia wash confirmed that the rescribing job was good and I moved to the next step.

38SFE6.jpg[/url][/img]

Now a stupid question: of how many degrees are tilted the vertical stabilizer? Both Melampy and DACO books forget this information.

Again,thx for watching and feel free to comment.

Gianni

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+1 on the gear bays - they're awesome! Though I'm going blind looking at the closeup pics and trying to distinguish all the detail You've added!

Hasegawa instruction says vertical stabilizers are canted 25 degrees outbuard, but I'm not really sure. I'd say it's more like 30. It would be good to know for sure.

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Wow!

I can't believe how much detail you are adding in this scale. You win the prize for patience, and effort. :thumbsup:

I have a few references for stabilizer angle. This is a Canadian Department of National Defence photo, licensed for private, non-commercial use.

BN2006-0416-54_zps7fc5c702.jpg

In the official document describing the CF-18 (called the Aircraft Operating Instructions), this is what they say:

The twin vertical stabilizers are angled outboard 20° from the vertical.

ALF

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Thx both guys!

This morning I've "shot" some Light Ghost Grey on the small parts,fuel tanks,ecc...Alf,again your help is priceless!

Are the inner left flap part removed?

I can't go after an Hornet with 10 AMRAAM....

Gianni

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good day all my friends,long time passed from my last update and the GB' end is more close...I hope to finish my build in time!

Ok ,I passed this time to made smooth the model in general and add the last pre-paint details.

I want to share with you my thoughts:I'm very torn about the PE;some part let me confused 'cause look wrong in seize or thickness.

For example look at the vert stab L-shaped brackets,they're too thin,better the kit one...

540Lrk.jpg[/url][/img]

...but in the other hand work superbly in detail like the HUD !

HrGWpp.jpg[/url][/img]

The lesson is use less PE in my other two Academy Hornets.

I've detailed the canopy rails with a combination of Eduard PE and scratch parts.

QcsNLQ.jpg[/url][/img]

And finally some Alclad grey primer!

I'm very happy 'cause the primer show only minor fault already corrected and none in the troublesome areas like the air intake or the PE air vents.

grfUK3.jpg[/url][/img]

7Mtrqo.jpg[/url][/img]

0qn2QU.jpg[/url][/img]

End of part one.

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Part two.

I want show some close-up shot of some areas.

First the MLG bays of which I like the result with the primer.Maybe more plumbing,who do you think?

ZtckLB.jpg[/url][/img]

The IFF "bird slicers" , one of the detail when the PE rendition are at the best.I need to remove some dust before start painting.

jwWRoS.jpg[/url][/img]

The nose vent,one of the detail that put in me more concern about the final apparence...few ( look like I need to straighten something here) !

nYz5ia.jpg[/url][/img]

One of the pylons with the new detail added.

KyKN5N.jpg[/url][/img]

The wheels with the new PE hubs.

mJUVLo.jpg[/url][/img]

Now,during the "smooth phase" on the PE part I've lost two of the rear fuselage vents,so I've decided to experiment an idea that I matured to improve the splitter plates of the various Hase' F-4 in my stash.

First,I removed the other PE,filled and sanded smooth the resulting gap in both upper and lower fuselage.

Jjrkkh.jpg[/url][/img]

To obtain the Phantom' micro-hole apparence ( and in this case the Hornet mesh-style vents) I will use this product.

82jFgj.jpg[/url][/img]

In Italy we called it "retino", I don't know the English translation.Basically is a dry transfer sheet whit various pattern and shade used by the japanese mangaka to realize the nuances in their works in black and white.

I searched it for long time and finally I found a local comic shop that direct import the sheet from Japan.

A close-up with a ruler as reference to show you the pattern.

Sorry but I have not used the best English in the world ...

Uu2MhR.jpg[/url][/img]

After painting the model,simply use the sheet on the interested area to obtain the vents.But this in theory,for now I cross the finger...

And speaking of paint,I airbrushed the horizontal stab on both surfaces.

For the lower one' I've used the Gunze H-308 as per instruction;checking the ref pics like the one that I've posted earlier,I noted that the dark grey of the camo have a strong blue nuance so instead of the H-337 suggested by the kit,I used the Tamiya XF-23 Light Blue.

This is the result,what do you think? Remember that aren't weathered.

zqp67X.jpg[/url][/img]

Also continuing the paint on the load-out,here the GBU-10.

vkp253.jpg[/url][/img]

As always thx for watching and let me know who do you think guys!

Gianni :cheers:/>

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One thing guys:if remember correctly,the Academy kit MLG legr are wrong both if you see the model frontal and laterally.

Any tips? If possible,I will mantain the kit after all the job I've made but eventually I can think to buy a AM if exist!

Thx,

Gianni

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The only way to completely fix them would be to cut them into 4 pieces and reposition everything. A lot of work involved there. I was able to fix the angle of the legs by notching the rectangle where they attack to the gear well and bendig the legs out a bit. Hard to explain but I tried in my build thread here. I can copy n paste later if needed. Also can take a better front on pic if you want. Was a very quick easy fix that made them look immensely better.

K

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Many thx K,

I understand what you mean and thx for the offer of the pics,very kind.Maybe I try the cut of the legs in my next Academy Hornet;at one time I considered also to buy the SAC brass undercarriage set.but it is a mere copy of the kit ones and their purchase would not solve the problem

I take another decision as you'll see later in the post;for now the model received the preshadow!

cIAMeM.jpg[/url][/img]

AGiOYZ.jpg[/url][/img]

OmavXX.jpg[/url][/img]

OK,the MLG legs:

I've puttied with Magic Sculpt the insertion hole into the bays and ,after dryfitting the legs checking various pics,I've drilled the hole.

yDerQv.jpg[/url][/img]

The legs: I cut the square part that fit in the fuselage and drilled the hole for the brass pin at the correct ( I hope ) angle.I've also shortened the pin that fit to the wheels and enlarged the corrispective hole on the wheel hubs.

06VnSS.jpg[/url][/img]

I hope that this solution work;I've some doubt of future collapse of the model,maybe a double pin option is a better strategy...

Thx all.next step the light ghost grey!

Gianni

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Hi all guys,

I've passed the last days to paint the model.

My first attempt with the Tamiya XF-23 don't let me complete satisfied,the contrast between the two greys don't look good,so I choose to use the XF-23 as a base for the Blue Gray and revert to The Gunze H-337.

I'm very happy with the result!

Some shots!

oE5FS5.jpg[/url][/img]

FRSxW2.jpg[/url][/img]

Kb9i9d.jpg[/url][/img]

With this method,the dark grey gained a more blueish shade that I like ,look at the Leading Edge Slat in particular.

wCzCwU.jpg[/url][/img]

Also,I added a first weathering;in the nose area I've noted that the paint look particularly faded,especially around the bird slicers.

I use the Uhu tac sausage in case of soft demarcation on camouflage.

Checking for the 1000th time the ref pics,I noted that the demarcation line in the nose run from the LERX to the cannon muzzle panel line( yellow ) so mine (red) is wrong...but I've already correct this error!

od3bMG.jpg[/url][/img]

The paint job on the canopy detail.

Rh6Ut9.jpg[/url][/img]

7pVbmA.jpg[/url][/img]

I love like the added details pop-up with the paint,look at the 'Winders and the wing pylon.

7becjU.jpg[/url][/img]

FeE7rN.jpg[/url][/img]

I tried the Hawkeye decals on the canopy and work as a dream .

v3VB6Z.jpg[/url][/img]

Before start the decaling,I've to mask and paint the wheel bays ,the IFR probe bay and the walkways.The latter have a specific color or a medium-dark grey are enough?

Any suggestion are much appreciated!

Big,I don't think my solution is better of your but only more complex...

Thx all for watching,

Gianni

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Good day all guys.

Some updates.

I've painted the walkways in Tamiya German grey and add a first weathering,I like it to be honest...

ZoLQQm.jpg[/url][/img]

I've painted also the wheel bays and the chaff & flare dispenser;I used a light shade of blue here 'cause with the weathering the color will be more dark.

q6DdUn.jpg[/url][/img]

aUq4fJ.jpg[/url][/img]

And with the gloss coat!

r6aHF2.jpg[/url][/img]

M3OgX0.jpg[/url][/img]

And last some of the load out .

5CrKBT.jpg[/url][/img]

I hope start to put the decals ASAP!

Thx for watch,

Gianni

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Excellent work with all the resin, P/E and other additions you've made Gianni. Your HUD looks great. I had such a hard time with the HUD in 48th scale. At one point, I thought my eyes were looking out the back of my head. She's gonna look really nice when done.

MIke

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Coming along very nicely.

The weapons look beautiful, as do the walkways and the weathering of the paint job. There's one small detail that isn't quite right with the ALE-39 Chaff/flare dispensers: they should be divided into one 20-slot area, and one 10-slot area, and likely oriented the same way on both sides. The design of the box is such that the computer can be told that L20 (left 20) contains chaff, flares, or expendable jammers, but not a mix; same thing for L10 (left 10), which can be one of C, F, or J.

I can never remember where the demarcation is between segments in each box, but making them symmetrical in this case would have been the best. You've paid a LOT of attention to detail on this build, so if you wish you may fix this, but the dispensers are invisible underneath anyway, and almost nobody knows about this detail. Your call.

This model is an example to emulate. I also agree with AX_365; the HUD on these kits drives me nuts. Great work.

ALF

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Thx guys!

ALF ,your suggestion is more than appreciated,and is the first hand-derived feedbacks that the people need to improve their skill ( at least mine!).

Any pics are possible? I search on the net but nothing.And about the colors I used,they are right?And what type of expendables indicated?

Again thx for your support my friends!

:cheers: Gianni

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Thx guys!

ALF ,your suggestion is more than appreciated,and is the first hand-derived feedbacks that the people need to improve their skill ( at least mine!).

Any pics are possible? I search on the net but nothing.And about the colors I used,they are right?And what type of expendables indicated?

Again thx for your support my friends!

:cheers:/> Gianni

Gianni

Glad you liked the feedback. Here is what I could find for pics. Go to this page (it's in French), and search for "lance-leures" on the page. You'll see an image of the dispensers, with the three types of expendable beside the dispensers.

http://forummarine.forumactif.com/t5180-mcdonnell-douglas-f-a-18-hornet

You'll notice that one type is blue; that's the chaff. Flares would be a gold colour. An easy approach would be to paint one dispenser all flares (blue circles), and the other one all chaff (gold circles). If you want to show the separation of each sector, L10 and R10 sections are like this:

-Each dispenser has 6 tubes from front to back, in 5 columns (6 x 5 matrix, with the long side parallel to the aircraft centreline).

-L10 is all 6 tubes along the left side of both dispensers (outboard on the left side, inboard on the right side), plus the front 4 tubes on the next column to the right.

-L20 and R20 are the 3 columns on the right, plus the rear 2 tubes on the column next to the far left one.

If you PM me your email address (I think I had it, but lost it somehow), I will send you a few pics of the dispensers loaded.

ALF

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Hi all guys,

last time I've updated the thread my build was ready for the gloss coat,so is time to show something new.

In reality I've virtually finished to decaling the model.

EpUHvL.jpg[/url][/img]

Thanks to ALF' pics, I've repainted the chaff & flare dispenser.

qO36UA.jpg[/url][/img]

The landing gears and the wheels.

svPGZn.jpg[/url][/img]

And the pylons and weapons.In reality I need to scratch the 'Winder safe handle.

HN50SS.jpg[/url][/img]

added the small pylon bumps on the upper wing surface.

sLYNMZ.jpg[/url][/img]

Checking the pics of the A21-52 ( my airframe ) I noted that the retractable part of the trailing edge flap was in a light color respect to the upper surface grey so ,another modification...

0HmxwM.jpg[/url][/img]

And 'till now the good news...

When I've started to apply the Hawkeye Models service stencils I noted that was readible with difficult,thick and ,for the ones on thr lower surfaces,they was to close to the Gunze paint.

Check the flap above and the horizontal stabs belowe.

guenGN.jpg[/url][/img]

I choose to leave the upper ones and use the kit ones for the lower surface.

but that's not all ...

End part one.

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