CharlieUH-1H Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 a work for the ages..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted October 7, 2018 Author Share Posted October 7, 2018 (edited) Edited October 8, 2018 by Rotorman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CharlieUH-1H Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 incredible! remember brother to paint one of the cart in PURPLE LOL (Joke) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted October 9, 2018 Author Share Posted October 9, 2018 22 hours ago, CharlieUH-1H said: incredible! remember brother to paint one of the cart in PURPLE LOL (Joke) You know i was thinking Apple green... Love your post. thanks, made me laugh. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted October 9, 2018 Author Share Posted October 9, 2018 Help, What color is the Main fuselage as well as the main and tail rotor rotor blades on the Seahawk/knighthawk. I am finding a variation of colors and I am at loss on proper US Navy paint color. Thanks Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HeavyArty Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 The Academy instructions and USN painting guides call for the aircraft to be painted in a 3-color standard USN gray camo scheme of Medium Gray (FS35237) upper surfaces, Dark Ghost Gray (FS36320) for the main fuselage, and Light Gray (FS36495) for the underside. However, actual photos of aircraft look to have a 2-color camo scheme of Dark Ghost Gray (FS36320) for the entire fuselage (including upper surfaces), and Light Gray (FS36495) for the underside. I used the two colors on mine as I could not decide whether the upper color simply faded to blend with the main fuselage color, or if the upper color was not present. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
twong Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 There are definitely three colors. Here is a bottom view showing FS36495. Here are a couple views of the top showing FS35237. You can see the demarcation line from FS35237 to FS36320. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, HeavyArty said: The Academy instructions and USN painting guides call for the aircraft to be painted in a 3-color standard USN gray camo scheme of Medium Gray (FS35237) upper surfaces, Dark Ghost Gray (FS36320) for the main fuselage, and Light Gray (FS36495) for the underside. However, actual photos of aircraft look to have a 2-color camo scheme of Dark Ghost Gray (FS36320) for the entire fuselage (including upper surfaces), and Light Gray (FS36495) for the underside. I used the two colors on mine as I could not decide whether the upper color simply faded to blend with the main fuselage color, or if the upper color was not present. Thanks Gino for the info. I will take a look at your build to see how you have done it. I was confused by the instructions on the paint guide. Blades are dark ghost gray then?? Oliver Edited October 10, 2018 by Rotorman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HeavyArty Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 1 hour ago, twong said: There are definitely three colors. Not so obvious on the one I was building (610), not that I could see anyways. I went w/the two colors as stated above and it looks just like all the reference pics I had of it. 31 minutes ago, Rotorman said: Blades are dark ghost gray then?? Yes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
twong Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 53 minutes ago, HeavyArty said: Not so obvious on the one I was building (610), not that I could see anyways. I went w/the two colors as stated above and it looks just like all the reference pics I had of it. This photo shows the top color darker. Look at the difference in color between the two arrows. You can follow the darker line to the front of the housing where it meets the top cabin windows. The nose is also painted in FS35237 as seen in this photo of an MH-60R. You can see the ALQ/ESM is a lighter color than the nose. This SH-60B also shows the different top color. Note that the ALQ/ESM is a lighter color than the nose. An MH-60S showing the darker color on the top housing and nose. The darker FS35237 on the nose ends at the avionics bay panel line and the lighter FS36320 is just under it. You can also see the much lighter FS36495 on the bottom of the MH-60S in the background. You can see the FS35237 on this HH-60H. Another MH-60R showing the darker FS35237. And another MH-60S. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CharlieUH-1H Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 5 hours ago, Rotorman said: You know i was thinking Apple green... Love your post. thanks, made me laugh. Perfect for Christmas. !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 16 minutes ago, twong said: This photo shows the top color darker. Look at the difference in color between the two arrows. You can follow the darker line to the front of the housing where it meets the top cabin windows. The nose is also painted in FS35237 as seen in this photo of an MH-60R. You can see the ALQ/ESM is a lighter color than the nose. This SH-60B also shows the different top color. Note that the ALQ/ESM is a lighter color than the nose. An MH-60S showing the darker color on the top housing and nose. The darker FS35237 on the nose ends at the avionics bay panel line and the lighter FS36320 is just under it. You can also see the much lighter FS36495 on the bottom of the MH-60S in the background. You can see the FS35237 on this HH-60H. Another MH-60R showing the darker FS35237. And another MH-60S. where do u find all the photos..Navy site? thanks for the research info. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HeavyArty Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 15 hours ago, twong said: This photo shows the top color darker. Look at the difference in color between the two arrows. You can follow the darker line to the front of the housing where it meets the top cabin windows.... I didn't say the three-color scheme wasn't correct, just that on pics of the helo I was building I couldn't see a difference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted October 29, 2018 Author Share Posted October 29, 2018 (edited) Had to use stryrene pieces and a large amount of superglue to fix the tail gaps. The parts in the kit to make the tail into an S version dont fit all that well. Still need to rescribe rivets . I just bought Hataka paint....Anyone used them before? Edited October 29, 2018 by Rotorman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted November 5, 2018 Author Share Posted November 5, 2018 (edited) Edited November 5, 2018 by Rotorman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted November 11, 2018 Author Share Posted November 11, 2018 (edited) Ok that grey is too blue...doesnt work..will use as primer then Edited November 11, 2018 by Rotorman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted November 11, 2018 Author Share Posted November 11, 2018 (edited) exhaust stains are too strong.. will tone down Edited November 12, 2018 by Rotorman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted November 18, 2018 Author Share Posted November 18, 2018 (edited) Edited November 18, 2018 by Rotorman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kike Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 The smallest detail is absolutely well done! talk about dedication!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted November 25, 2018 Author Share Posted November 25, 2018 Well, I applied the decals from the kit on top of the blades but that did not go well. ..they just did not want to lay down flat. I tried all my decal products to soften but no go. Film is too thick. I decided to sand them down since the corners of the decals were lifting and it looked awfulI. I dropped the main rotor with the folded blades on the ground while sanding ....it broke in several pieces including all the small details on top of rotor head ....not a good modeling day. ....yep i am pissed. So either i redo it all from scratch and use the folding set from Shapeways or i dont fold the blades. i huge set back for sure but modeling without issues would not be modeling. Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tgoetz Posted November 25, 2018 Share Posted November 25, 2018 With your skills no doubt whatever you do it will be better than before. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ALEXANDRE REZENDE Posted November 29, 2018 Share Posted November 29, 2018 On 11/24/2018 at 10:12 PM, Rotorman said: Well, I applied the decals from the kit on top of the blades but that did not go well. ..they just did not want to lay down flat. I tried all my decal products to soften but no go. Film is too thick. I decided to sand them down since the corners of the decals were lifting and it looked awfulI. I dropped the main rotor with the folded blades on the ground while sanding ....it broke in several pieces including all the small details on top of rotor head ....not a good modeling day. ....yep i am pissed. So either i redo it all from scratch and use the folding set from Shapeways or i dont fold the blades. i huge set back for sure but modeling without issues would not be modeling. Oliver Oliver, Rework always exists in modeling. Do not be shocked by this problem. For me, this always happens! I even got used to it. One of the premises I adopted is: if I have to do it again, it's going to have to get better than before. " I'm a fan of your montages! You teach a lot with your whims and details! []s Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted December 9, 2018 Author Share Posted December 9, 2018 (edited) New and improved folded rotor. Edited December 9, 2018 by Rotorman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wafu Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 The 3D Shapeways parts look like they work out with no problems? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted December 9, 2018 Author Share Posted December 9, 2018 (edited) 8 hours ago, Wafu said: The 3D Shapeways parts look like they work out with no problems? worked out well but needed to be reinforced to carry the weight of the blades. Edited December 9, 2018 by Rotorman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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