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today's update is to show that the model have had its first clear coat... (gloss alclad prior to decals...)

all the decals are now on the model (sixty-some stencils..numbers and stars (all decals are Begemot, stencils and markings)) ...and have been clear coated again!

so, here it is:

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even if it's not obvious, i've flatten a little the glossy finish (it looks better that way (in "person" at least)

i've try to put a little wash... but it didn't stick well over the glossy finish (before i have added some flat clear coat) ...maybe i'll try again in a couple of days... but only in few areas as for some area it's already enough...

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The best Black base cote to use is Tamiya TS-14 from the spray can, great paint and flawless results.

Also to mask off panel lines I like to use Parafilm M, easy to apply and just cut with a small curved blade, you can run the blade down a panel line for the perfect cut, and no worries about pulling up any paint as it's a non adhesive.

Curt

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Parafilm can be amazing stuff. It's what I usually it for canopies and complex masks, especially when I'm trying to trace around panel lines.

When I cut Parafilm, I usually use a new #11 blade. I assume you're talking about the #10 blade. What are the benefits of it?

Edited by David N Lombard
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i'll surely give a try to Parafilm M stuff in the mid-term future, looks like really good stuff! thanks Netz to make me aware of the existence of this stuff (that seems to have some amazing property)

and also, thank you Ron for your kind comments70.gif ...the kit is not exactly accurate in many ways... but looks OK nonetheless, and one can build an outstanding display model from that kit. also, the fit is, most of the time (but not always) very good.

accuracy wize, i'd give that kit a 70% note. builder-frendly wize, i'ds give that kit a 80% note. and i have enjoyed most of the building process.

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at last, my first for this group build is completed!yahoo.gif...in less than a month!

i've had to remove the canopy after removing the masks as the interior of the clear part turns foggy... i've remove it the most carefully that i've could, then, give a little shot of polishing compound with microfibre cloth.

and for now, i haven't glued it back yet...and not sure if i will, as it stick at its place.

i've taken some photos of the finished model outside... even if it was not a sunny day, it'll give a good idea of what the model looks like.DSCN7953_zps3abbb052.jpg

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some more...

the very tiny Master metal static dischagers give a nice detail "touch" to the model... but those are often bend when manipulating the model... handle with care! (it bends often...but never broke yet!)

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and that's all for today!

hope you have enjoy it!! and spend a good time!

you comments, are, as always, welcome and appreciated!

thanks for looking!

and have a great modeling time!

greetings

Simon

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Très beau, Simon!

I like the Alclad job, with the extra touches for realism. That medical tape is available at Pharmaprix: look for Life brand Foam Tape (Ruban en mousse); it's the same stuff essentially as the 3M tape in your thread.

ALF

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Très beau, Simon!

I like the Alclad job, with the extra touches for realism. That medical tape is available at Pharmaprix: look for Life brand Foam Tape (Ruban en mousse); it's the same stuff essentially as the 3M tape in your thread.

ALF

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  • 3 weeks later...

Parafilm can be amazing stuff. It's what I usually it for canopies and complex masks, especially when I'm trying to trace around panel lines.

When I cut Parafilm, I usually use a new #11 blade. I assume you're talking about the #10 blade. What are the benefits of it?

A little late, but the curved blades do not snag while cutting the Para Film.

Curt

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