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1/48 Hasegawa F-4E TuAF SEA


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Thank you Scott, I always appreciate your wonderful descriptions of anything that pertains to the Phantom. Last night I ended up painting the outer slat red stripes based on your description. I think I will skip painting the inboard stripes with Hasegawa's plastic (slat blended into the wing) it will look a little strange. After your description of the slats, I found this:

Every photo I've found of a SEA-scheme Turkish F-4E in which you can see that area on top of the wing has the red stripes for both outboard and inboard slats, and the additional white stripe for the inboards. To me it would look very odd to just have red stripes for the outboard slats but nothing for the inboards. But it's your model, whatever you choose to do...

http://www.flugzeugbilder.de/show.php?id=797125

http://www.flugzeugbilder.de/show.php?id=889661

http://www.flugzeugbilder.de/show.php?id=1055061

Edited by Scott R Wilson
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Every photo I've found of a SEA-scheme Turkish F-4E in which you can see that area on top of the wing has the red stripes for both outboard and inboard slats, and the additional white stripe for the inboards. To me it would look very odd to just have red stripes for the outboard slats but nothing for the inboards. But it's your model, whatever you choose to do...

http://www.flugzeugbilder.de/show.php?id=797125

http://www.flugzeugbilder.de/show.php?id=889661

http://www.flugzeugbilder.de/show.php?id=1055061

Another website in which there are several photos showing the white/red stripe behind the inboard slat:

http://www.ole-nikolajsen.com/TURKISH%20FORCES%202004/F-4E%20fotos.pdf

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You had asked about the blue bombs but not the missiles. The blue, whether painted over the whole item or just a blue stripe, signifies an inert training round. Yellow stripes signify an explosive, and a brown stripe signifies a live rocket motor. And fwiw three green stripes signifies a chemical weapon. Your blue Sidewinder with brown and yellow stripes and white Sidewinder with the live rocket motor (brown stripe) but inert warhead (blue stripes) make no sense. You'll probably want to remove the stripes or repaint the blue missile white or light gray. It's extremely unlikely to see a mix of live and inert ordnance on a plane too, you should go all live or all inert, missiles and bombs.

The radome on a real Sparrow is made of a white ceramic material. It takes on a light gray appearance from dirt that gets rubbed into the ceramic (it's not glazed, it has a very flat finish). 36440 light gull gray looks fairly close.

Edited by Scott R Wilson
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Thank you very much Scott. Great information. About the inboard stripes; since Hasegawa's inboard slats look like a part of the wing (very difficult to tell if there are slats there), I thought the stripes would look strange. But I think I am convinced that I should do it, I will add those to the model. Just to confirm, based on your knowledge, these stripes are still visible when the slats are fully retracted, correct? Your earlier post indicates so, so I will go with that.

I know what you mean with the winders. Admittedly, I was not shooting for great accuracy there, just some colors. I know it is odd to be pretty particular about the bombs and not so much the missiles, but that's me I guess. My build speed has gone down dramatically that often times I favor visual interest over accuracy because I fear it will be a few years before I get to something similar. But again, sometimes I want accuracy :) I appreciate the information you share and beyond that all the pictures you have taken over the years to document this beast.

Edited by Janissary
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  • 2 weeks later...

An update from the latest stages. Dirtying up and drybrushing the wheels:

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Various Alclad, MM metalizer and Tamiya clear blue/orange shades:

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Masking takes so much time...

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The red and white stripes around the inboard slats are not "facing" the right (airflow) direction. However, the panel lines around there forced me to take this route. I was aware of this problem before painting, so had to make a decision that was not completely satisfactory either way.

Edited by Janissary
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There is still a lot of weathering I need to do around the metallic sections:

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Horizontal stabs painting:

- Surfacer 1200

- Future (let it cure for 2 days)

- Alclad polished aluminum

- Masking + Alclad aluminum

- Masking + Alclad pale gold

- Future (let it cure for 2 days)

- Highly thinned MM enamel graphite

- Going over the rivets with a small brush and enamel thinner

After all is done, I plan to apply thinned flat black around the metallic sections to simulate the soot and dirt build up:

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Finally, attached the slats and applied future all around including the metallic sections. I applied a final coat of windex over the future iron out any orange peel effect. Recently, I am tending toward a gloss but not a highly glossy surface. Too much gloss I think makes it difficult for the washes and grime to stick to the model. So there is a fine balance I was aiming for. Will see after the decals and washes if it is all ok.

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Edited by Janissary
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Really nice work Janissary! I'm not sure how I missed this build, but I suspect it was the scale (1/48) since I'm so totally focused on 1/32 all the time. Your mottled paint job is fantastic- and it sure brings back a few fond memories. Your titanium painting is killer too, just excellent! :thumbsup:

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THank you Chuck. I am not too fond of the metallic areas yet (need more dirt and grime) but I am hoping what I have now will be a base to start with. Now my next biggest concern is how to weather the decals once their applied. Hopefully they will blend nicely with the paint.

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The red and white stripes around the inboard slats are not "facing" the right (airflow) direction. However, the panel lines around there forced me to take this route. I was aware of this problem before painting, so had to make a decision that was not completely satisfactory either way.

That's because the model's panel lines are for "hard-wing" leading edge flaps, not slats.

Edited by Scott R Wilson
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This looks epic... Super job J. Amazing stuff.

Thank you Captain!

That's because the model's panel lines are for "hard-wing" leading edge flaps, not slats.

Makes a lot of sense now. I assume there are no long nose Phantoms in 48'th with separate inboard slats correct?

Nice job you did!

But a notice.... silver color around exhaust should be finished in planel line.

Thank you Honza for stopping by. Can you explain more what you mean by the panel line? I was going generally from this pic:

http://www.airfighters.com/photo/94473/M/Turkey-Air-Force/McDonnell-Douglas-F-4E-Phantom-II/01047/

and most of my refs show similar camo/metallic panels. Hmmm, now thinking, do you mean the lower surface pic from underneath?

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Thank you Captain!

Makes a lot of sense now. I assume there are no long nose Phantoms in 48'th with separate inboard slats correct?

Thank you Honza for stopping by. Can you explain more what you mean by the panel line? I was going generally from this pic:

http://www.airfighters.com/photo/94473/M/Turkey-Air-Force/McDonnell-Douglas-F-4E-Phantom-II/01047/

and most of my refs show similar camo/metallic panels. Hmmm, now thinking, do you mean the lower surface pic from underneath?

I'm not sure what Honza was saying either, unless I missed something your bare metal area is correct, though maybe a bit too pristine.

As to the inboard slat, it will be easy for you to correct even now. The panel line that on a hard wing goes between the innermost leading edge flap and middle leading edge flap that has a dog-leg angle merely needs to be extended straight to the rear. What is it in 1/48, maybe another 1/16th of an inch? That line becomes the inboard edge of the slat. No need for it to be a separate part if the slats are retracted, the inboard slat sits flush on the wing. Look again at my photo:

F-4ESEAleftwingScottWilson-1.jpg

Edited by Scott R Wilson
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  • 4 weeks later...

Mark, Aigore, thank you very much! I have been slowly plowing through the decals. I used mostly the kit decals, Kursad's Alps printer decals, Hobby time decals, and a few decals from the spares box. The kit decals are so thick that even after tons of microsol and solvaset (sometimes even under the decals) they scream 'we're here'. Some also show a little silvering. Anyway, after the decals I applied another coat of future over the decals only and now I'm waiting for everything to cure.

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The next steps are washing, flat coat, and weathering. It will still take some time.

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Janissary..... Holy Cow! Just an incredible work you have. All of your efforts are making for one incredible looking Phantom! Even as you say the decals were thick.... I cant see it with the gloss. Besides, it doesn't spoil your "eye candy" one bit!

-Mark

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This is, by far, the best TuAF Phantom I have ever seen !

Amazing paint job and riveting ! I saved every single picture of your work in order to help me with mine Phantom, in smaller scale !

Thanks for sharing this with us here ! Can't wait to see the end ! :thumbsup:

Cheers,

Nenad

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thank you very much all. A small update. I made a few lenses for the lights under the intakes and the tiseo. I polished the flat face of these lenses, which will be the visible sides:

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After painting the wing tanks, I used various pencils to create scuff marks and other bits of damage. After scratching and dotting the surface, I went over them with a glass cleaning cloth with a little bit oil to blend in all the scuff marks. I also chipped one of the wing tanks (middle section gunship gray) pretty excessively (via hairspray).

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Finally, I masked the bottoms of these tanks with diluted masking liquid. Since this photo, I airbrushed a highly thinned black and brown to the bottoms and then removed the masks (don't have a pic yet):

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Various shots of the canopies. I have not done the sealant around the canopy edges and I think I will skip that. The only way I can do it at this stage is with decals, but the curved back sides will make it difficult for the decals to conform. Kursad, thanks again for the crew names.

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Edited by Janissary
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Various bits and pieces. Canopy parts have been since attached as seen in the previous post:

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I experimented a lot with masking the ejection handles. I first used a two sided tape and cut in a thin strip and rolled in my fingers. While it was very tacky, the tack was all over the handles making it difficult for the black paint to stick. So, started again and settled on thin strips of Tamiya tape!

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Results were not perfect:

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So came out the 0.1 Staedtler marker to touch up the black parts. The original coat of paint provides a nice guide for the touchups (the spiral pattern). Still needs a coat of future to blend everything together, and then a flat coat:

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At the Nats, I found these Quickboost F-4 intake plugs, which was only $5. Quickly grabbed the set (my alternative was to make something like this out of two-part putty). But after coming home, I realized they were designed for the Academy kit (at least that's what it says on the bag) and they were way too narrow for the Hase intakes! So I had to widen them using styrene pieces. Note that this extension is not straight down, it slightly tapers from the top to the bottom:

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Ok, seems to fit better now:

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Edited by Janissary
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