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Micro sol destroyed my decals!


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I used Micro Sol on the decals of my Tamiya 1/32 F-4j. It is the first time I use it. I used in two ways: fist on decals already on the model and second with new applied decals where I first used Micro Set. The first decals are now wrinkled and have got air underneath, where they were first smooth on the kit. Even after 6 coats of Micro Sol, still wrinkles and no smooth result. I didn't touch the decals when wet and let the coats dry for hours and also overnight. The newly applied decals went a bit better, but also not very good. By far not the promissed painted on look. The decals now look like decals, like I applyed them as a kid...

What did I do wrong? And is there a way to get it right?

Edited by Santtu Pikkarainen
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Those older Tamiya decals could also be the problem. My first F-4Js decals disintegrated in water. Those that made it on the plane were also heavily damaged. Had to go aftermarket.

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Those older Tamiya decals could also be the problem. My first F-4Js decals disintegrated in water. Those that made it on the plane were also heavily damaged. Had to go aftermarket.

Same here.....I have used MicroSol for years with no problems at all.

I don't use the MicroSet though.

Cheers,

Jerry

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Those older Tamiya decals could also be the problem. My first F-4Js decals disintegrated in water. Those that made it on the plane were also heavily damaged. Had to go aftermarket.

Older Tamiya decals "don't like" at all Microsol. They wrinkle badly and never level again after the alcohol evaporates. You can try to press the wrinkled decal with a moist cotton bud, it gives mixed results, but the best solution would be to remove the affected decals and apply a new one. More recent Tamiya decals don't behave that badly with MicroSol, in fact, recently Tamiya began marketing it's own decals solvent (I haven't tried and can't comment).

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Your 1st situation, applying the Sol to an already applied decal, why? you only use the Sol when a decal will not conform to a detail or panel line,and only during the decal application,once a decal has been applied and has set for a few weeks, your not going to change the appearance, but you will soften the "plastic" of the decal film and it will not re-conform due to the adhesives already being solidified.

Second situation,again you can apply too much Sol and remove the adhesive there to "stick" the decal to the surface, if you have no wrinkles and just need to re-adhere the decal to the surface, try some Future Floor wax, a bit diluted and this will act as a adhesive (a very good adhesive).

Your wrinkling problem was due to too much Sol being applied,you can over cook them to the point they will not recover.

To get the painted on look you need to apply a clear cote over the decal, you did not mention this, but it sounds like you did not use one in your 1st description of the already completed model. Usually a clear coat over the decal followed by a flat (or what ever desired finish needs to be) will hide the decal edges to give the "Painted on Look".

Curt

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Your 1st situation, applying the Sol to an already applied decal, why? you only use the Sol when a decal will not conform to a detail or panel line,and only during the decal application,once a decal has been applied and has set for a few weeks, your not going to change the appearance, but you will soften the "plastic" of the decal film and it will not re-conform due to the adhesives already being solidified.

Second situation,again you can apply too much Sol and remove the adhesive there to "stick" the decal to the surface, if you have no wrinkles and just need to re-adhere the decal to the surface, try some Future Floor wax, a bit diluted and this will act as a adhesive (a very good adhesive).

Your wrinkling problem was due to too much Sol being applied,you can over cook them to the point they will not recover.

To get the painted on look you need to apply a clear cote over the decal, you did not mention this, but it sounds like you did not use one in your 1st description of the already completed model. Usually a clear coat over the decal followed by a flat (or what ever desired finish needs to be) will hide the decal edges to give the "Painted on Look".

Curt

I used it hoping to get the painted on look instead of decallook...

I didn't know about the clear coat to get the painted look. I always use a clear coat on the decals anyway...

Well, I will have to search for new US roundels. The only other kinda damaged decal is acceptabel, I think...

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I have learned the hard way about older Tamiya decals and Micro Sol. I like to build the old Tamiya 1/12 scale motorcycles and Micro Sol pretty much destroys some of those decals.

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Were the old decals not laying down around the panel detail? If they were, you wasted your effort putting Micro Sol on them. It's not really made to be used on decals that have been on the model and completely dried/cured. Between that and the older Tamiya decals themselves, that could well be your problem.

I've been using it for 40 years with nary a problem.

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Ive had issue with microsol when i applied too much and it puddled. Has for the wrincles its happend to me before but i realized that it was often when i didnt put it only on the decal precisly and not on the souronding so when the decals softer they where not able to slide on the surrounding sufece and the only direnting it could streach was up hence the wrincles

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Yesterday I removed the damaged decals, I will buy new ones and start over again. I think I will put another coat of future on the kit before I put the next decals on. I did put a layer of gloss paint on it, but it's not very shiny. Just more a satin-gloss appearance. For the rest of the Tamiya decals I won't use Micro Sol. Only the extra CAM-decals might get some Sol.

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Hi,

The Microscale decal setting solutions (Set & Sol) should always be used together for the best outcome. I found that out after a few attempts where the decal silvered even over a gloss coated model surface. As is, out of the bottle, Micro-set will form droplets on a gloss coat. That is really not acceptable for the purpose of creating a liquid surface free of air bubbles for the decal to bed down on. What I always do with a fresh bottle of Micro-Set solution is add 2 drops of liquid dish-washing soap to relax the surface tension of the liquid. Don't shake the bottle, just a stir. You will now see that wherever you have brushed the setting solution will be a puddle of liquid exactly on the area that your brush contacted the model surface. This is much better than chasing little droplets and hoping some of them will be under your decal. My results have been outstanding with this very simple answer to an aggravating problem. When the decal has nearly dried and the setting-solution has evaporated, place one drop of micro-sol over the decal and leave it alone. Some deep panel lines may require a sharp hobby knife run along the line before the Micro-sol to melt the edges down into the seam. When the decal is dried, overcoat with clear acrylic like Johnson's Future to effect the painted-on look.

Hope this may help you.

Brgds,

ED Okun

Edited by frogman13
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Hi,

The Microscale decal setting solutions (Set & Sol) should always be used together for the best outcome. I found that out after a few attempts where the decal silvered even over a gloss coated model surface. As is, out of the bottle, Micro-set will form droplets on a gloss coat. That is really not acceptable for the purpose of creating a liquid surface free of air bubbles for the decal to bed down on. What I always do with a fresh bottle of Micro-Set solution is add 2 drops of liquid dish-washing soap to relax the surface tension of the liquid. Don't shake the bottle, just a stir. You will now see that wherever you have brushed the setting solution will be a puddle of liquid exactly on the area that your brush contacted the model surface. This is much better than chasing little droplets and hoping some of them will be under your decal. My results have been outstanding with this very simple answer to an aggravating problem. When the decal has nearly dried and the setting-solution has evaporated, place one drop of micro-sol over the decal and leave it alone. Some deep panel lines may require a sharp hobby knife run along the line before the Micro-sol to melt the edges down into the seam. When the decal is dried, overcoat with clear acrylic like Johnson's Future to effect the painted-on look.

Hope this may help you.

Brgds,

ED Okun

Just to understand it right: you add 2 droplets of dishwashing soap to Micro-Set?

Everybody who replied: thanks a lot!

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Hi,

The Microscale decal setting solutions (Set & Sol) should always be used together for the best outcome. I found that out after a few attempts where the decal silvered even over a gloss coated model surface. As is, out of the bottle, Micro-set will form droplets on a gloss coat. That is really not acceptable for the purpose of creating a liquid surface free of air bubbles for the decal to bed down on. What I always do with a fresh bottle of Micro-Set solution is add 2 drops of liquid dish-washing soap to relax the surface tension of the liquid. Don't shake the bottle, just a stir. You will now see that wherever you have brushed the setting solution will be a puddle of liquid exactly on the area that your brush contacted the model surface. This is much better than chasing little droplets and hoping some of them will be under your decal. My results have been outstanding with this very simple answer to an aggravating problem. When the decal has nearly dried and the setting-solution has evaporated, place one drop of micro-sol over the decal and leave it alone. Some deep panel lines may require a sharp hobby knife run along the line before the Micro-sol to melt the edges down into the seam. When the decal is dried, overcoat with clear acrylic like Johnson's Future to effect the painted-on look.

Hope this may help you.

Brgds,

ED Okun

If possible, you should post this technique in the Tools 'n' Tips section for all to see. Most people don't know about this, especially me.. :D/>

Scott

CNJC-IPMS

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I have always had good luck with the Micro-Set/Sol products. It looks like you are on the way to fixing your problem. However, I didn't notice, did experiment with a decal that you could afford to lose, such as something on the underside of the model or a stencil. The first decal I apply is usually one that I can afford to lose and/or replace if things go south. Just my 2 cents worth.

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