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Janne, I had the very same problems when I added Eurodecals yellow checkers to my J35J from F1, as you wrote the problem is these are not printed over white :deadhorse1:/> .

Considering the price of the sheets...they should have known better!

More decals for Robert Bergwall to design...generic numbers and division markings :P

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Definately a god save!

If you look closely at the decals on the full size, you will see slightly darkened edges from the laquer used to seal the edges.

And, a word of advice... Test your decals first!

No, I don't either... ;)

Jorgen "Troll" Toll

:trolls:

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Great safe on the decals!

I was close to press the buy-link on the weekend, but I think I will wait for the AM guys to start spreading their sets :rolleyes:/>

Thanx coneheadff :D

Definately a god save!

If you look closely at the decals on the full size, you will see slightly darkened edges from the laquer used to seal the edges.

And, a word of advice... Test your decals first!

No, I don't either... ;)/>

Jorgen "Troll" Toll

:trolls:/>

Thanx Jörgen :D

in hind sight...yeah

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Hmmmm....well....what do you think?

I put the Tarangus decals on top of the Eurotrash....and built the zero from a nine and a four.

Are they keepers or should I strip and paint instead?

IMG_2090_zpsm2lzpo0y.jpg

IMG_2091_zpseewlwohe.jpg

IMG_2092_zpslqietylq.jpg

What do I think? well I don´t really know....it´s a female dog to mix the correct dayglo but if successful it would be flawless...

right now I have the right glow but the fix on the big zero is visible if you look. :/

I haven´t sealed the decals yet so I still have time to decide....

The fixes on the fin I can live with..but it also means I have to match a dayglow paint to that particular glow.

..... sigh.

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I think they look good - and probably look even better in person. I know that macro photography tends to make everything look more exagerated. I would keep what you have - mixing a dayglo and masking would look great, but is the cost in time and effort going to create a significant enough difference?

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Janne,

As I said before, your fix solution and execution came out fantastic. I'm actually quite surprised at how well they look from what you started with. Gone are the wrinkles, and what looked like pits and valleys, but turned out to be various stages of being translucent. The decal maker should be taken out back and shot !! And yes, the decals now look a little thick, but that issue is easy enough to blend in with a few heavy coats of gloss right around the decals. Once a coat of Dullcoat and some weathering (which I'm more then sure you'll be doing) is applied, no one will ever see the thickness issue. As for the only 99% save of the big 0, you're evaluating that based on looking directly at a larger then life size picture that focuses on the 0, and you're pointing it out to the viewers, so it becomes the central focus point. Once viewed in an overall context of the build, no one, including a contest judge would see it, nor care if they did. It's that good of a fix. If you decided to take a magnifying glass and carefully go over ever square inch of your build, I'm sure you'll find little spots that are not quite 100% perfect, but you're not going to fix them as they're not noticeable in the overall context of the build. That rule applies to your decal issue as well.

To even contemplate stripping the decals, possibly having to repaint those areas, especially if they're custom mixes, and then start a tedious process of creating Orange Florescent paint, and have it match the existing color, honestly, would be almost impossible to do, since you're using paints, and the decals are inks. If you can't match it 100%, the time and effort wouldn't be worth it, and then that difference becomes even more apparent.

Joel

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I think they look good - and probably look even better in person. I know that macro photography tends to make everything look more exagerated. I would keep what you have - mixing a dayglo and masking would look great, but is the cost in time and effort going to create a significant enough difference?

Janne,

As I said before, your fix solution and execution came out fantastic. I'm actually quite surprised at how well they look from what you started with. Gone are the wrinkles, and what looked like pits and valleys, but turned out to be various stages of being translucent. The decal maker should be taken out back and shot !! And yes, the decals now look a little thick, but that issue is easy enough to blend in with a few heavy coats of gloss right around the decals. Once a coat of Dullcoat and some weathering (which I'm more then sure you'll be doing) is applied, no one will ever see the thickness issue. As for the only 99% save of the big 0, you're evaluating that based on looking directly at a larger then life size picture that focuses on the 0, and you're pointing it out to the viewers, so it becomes the central focus point. Once viewed in an overall context of the build, no one, including a contest judge would see it, nor care if they did. It's that good of a fix. If you decided to take a magnifying glass and carefully go over ever square inch of your build, I'm sure you'll find little spots that are not quite 100% perfect, but you're not going to fix them as they're not noticeable in the overall context of the build. That rule applies to your decal issue as well.

To even contemplate stripping the decals, possibly having to repaint those areas, especially if they're custom mixes, and then start a tedious process of creating Orange Florescent paint, and have it match the existing color, honestly, would be almost impossible to do, since you're using paints, and the decals are inks. If you can't match it 100%, the time and effort wouldn't be worth it, and then that difference becomes even more apparent.

Joel

HOLY SCHMOLY Janne....

EXCEPTIONAL work .you Are always a inspiring kind of person with your gifted builds.. This is AWESOME... :worship:/>

WOW

Thanx gor your views and words of wisdom :D

I'll sleep on it for a while before I decide.

Like Joel says... it's a lot of extra work for perhaps very little return.

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I dont know about service Viggens but the one we have here lost the dayglow numbers very quickly. Even when it arrived from Sweden (by air) the look of those numbers was far from perfect (they went white and had patches all over them) and in very short time it was lost completely. So I don’t think “perfect” day glow numbers is what one should go for on a weathered (that is in service for a fair bit of time) aircraft. But of course you up north have seen a bit more of them, I have only seen some at Satenas with F7 wing and in the Linköping factory back more than a decade ago.

Best regards

Gabor

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Hej janne,

I do agree with the rest here and I'd recommend you keep them. Sure they look thick, but there is no guarantee you'd have a better result if stripping, masking, spraying.

However I would take it easy with putting too thick of a clear coat on top. I think that may end up clogging the fine surface detail. Could you maybe try a normal coat and see how much that can hide the thickness in conjunction with weathering and flat coat? maybe doing a stepwise approach is what I'm aiming for. What I think will help is to see that all the panel lines now covered by the decals get weathered in nice and defined way. Usually it's hard to get consistent lines when crossing decals and these may be even harder since they are on the thick side.

Overall I think you did a great save on the decals!

/Kristian

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Hej janne,

I do agree with the rest here and I'd recommend you keep them. Sure they look thick, but there is no guarantee you'd have a better result if stripping, masking, spraying.

However I would take it easy with putting too thick of a clear coat on top. I think that may end up clogging the fine surface detail. Could you maybe try a normal coat and see how much that can hide the thickness in conjunction with weathering and flat coat? maybe doing a stepwise approach is what I'm aiming for. What I think will help is to see that all the panel lines now covered by the decals get weathered in nice and defined way. Usually it's hard to get consistent lines when crossing decals and these may be even harder since they are on the thick side.

Overall I think you did a great save on the decals!

/Kristian

Kristian,

I think you misunderstood what I was saying about the heavier gloss coat, or more likely I didn't explain myself correctly. I was suggesting that a thicker coat be applied to just around the doubled layered decals, then feathered out to a normal coating. Sorry for the confusion.

Joel

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I dont know about service Viggens but the one we have here lost the dayglow numbers very quickly. Even when it arrived from Sweden (by air) the look of those numbers was far from perfect (they went white and had patches all over them) and in very short time it was lost completely. So I don’t think “perfect” day glow numbers is what one should go for on a weathered (that is in service for a fair bit of time) aircraft. But of course you up north have seen a bit more of them, I have only seen some at Satenas with F7 wing and in the Linköping factory back more than a decade ago.

Best regards

Gabor

Thanx Gabor :D

This particular Aircraft had the dayglo pretty recently applied, the old markings had just been painted over with fresh paint on the wings and the fin and then the dayglo came on.

The old ones were in white on the wings and red on the fin.

Hej janne,

I do agree with the rest here and I'd recommend you keep them. Sure they look thick, but there is no guarantee you'd have a better result if stripping, masking, spraying.

However I would take it easy with putting too thick of a clear coat on top. I think that may end up clogging the fine surface detail. Could you maybe try a normal coat and see how much that can hide the thickness in conjunction with weathering and flat coat? maybe doing a stepwise approach is what I'm aiming for. What I think will help is to see that all the panel lines now covered by the decals get weathered in nice and defined way. Usually it's hard to get consistent lines when crossing decals and these may be even harder since they are on the thick side.

Overall I think you did a great save on the decals!

/Kristian

THanx Kristian :D

Kristian,

I think you misunderstood what I was saying about the heavier gloss coat, or more likely I didn't explain myself correctly. I was suggesting that a thicker coat be applied to just around the doubled layered decals, then feathered out to a normal coating. Sorry for the confusion.

Joel

I got you at least Joel :P

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Having pondered things the sane thing to do is to move on... like Joel, the wise man, said it's way too much work for little return and chances are that I'd muck up something else in the process.

Normal services will resume shortly, thank you for all your input and support :D

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Today I did something entirely different.... I went to Ikea to get me some spots :P

I´m having another go at furnishing my hobby room, before it served as office as well and I shared it with my GF...but now I got the whole room back!

Nothing bad happened, we just got us a laptop instead so we scrapped her old desktop and and she moved out of the hobbyroom...mostly because she hardly ever used the office anymore becuase of the stuff you nowdays can do on pads, phones and laptops :D

So I got the whole room back and my first step was to use the corner desk in a corner and make a photo corner out of it!

LIke I said, we went to Ikea and ther I bought 3 clamped LED spotlights and 4 LED light pads. I attached the LED pads to the shelve above the corner desk and attached the clamped LED spots to the sides and above.

IMG_2093_zps55w7l2by.jpg

Here´s the lighting set up... a LED spot on each side and one LED spot in the center above.

Now as you can see there´s a less desirble effect by spots...namely what they are designed to do, focusing light in a spot. That´s unfortunatly bad for studio photography, you get sharp shadows and glare spots.

The model looks like it´s on a stage...can´t have that!

IMG_2094_zpsn78dcu1u.jpg

I had to make difusers for the spotlights. After a quick ponder over the problem I came up wiht a simple sollution... In my old photo set up I used desklamps covered by papper tissues as difusers.

Here´s it´s no different except I found that my plastic cups fit over the LED lights, so I took one cup and rolled a paper tissue around it....

IMG_2096_zpsal8mf7rl.jpg

and stuck it into the second cup.... a difuser done! I made two more ove these.

IMG_2097_zpsyovxfnxn.jpg

Here´s what the undifused LED spot looked like....

IMG_2098_zpsgmubeekf.jpg

and with the difuser on it spreads light in every direction...

IMG_2099_zpsc2zrrgsg.jpg

SO a couple of test shots of the current build on the table :D

IMG_2102_zpsghgwxzgs.jpg

IMG_2103_zpsrbzwfbq9.jpg

There my new photo set up is done! :D

Cheers!

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Excellent work!

you are not afraid by possible overheating of your difusers?

bye

Thanx rom :D

I ran the setup for a few hours and they didn't melt, so I'm confident in them. It's medicin cups and the plastic in those are resilient :)

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Janne,

I'm more then impressed. You're forcing me to get off my butt and do something about proper lighting for my model photography.

Joel

Thanx Joel :D

LoL, don't know about forcing but I like to show there's inexpensive ways to build a decent studio :D

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Janne,

You would laugh if you saw my ad hoc setup. I went for big bucks for a My Nikon D90 and assorted equipment, but have been cutting corners with a decent lighting setup. Just doesn't make any sense, since I spend so much time in Post Processing trying to correct those very issues. And some just aren't correctable.

Joel

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Janne,

You would laugh if you saw my ad hoc setup. I went for big bucks for a My Nikon D90 and assorted equipment, but have been cutting corners with a decent lighting setup. Just doesn't make any sense, since I spend so much time in Post Processing trying to correct those very issues. And some just aren't correctable.

Joel

We all have to start somewhere :) Perhaps your focus has been on documentation rather than raking pretty pictures, there's nothing wrong with that, mate!

I discovered a passion for photography in my process to document my builds....I started with using my, then, crappy mobile phone camera and I did that for many years before I got me a decent compact camera.

With that camera I discovered the fun in photography and it grew to a hobby in its own :D

Since then I've been on a steady learning curve to improve :) In studio photography lighting is very important even when just taking snapshots of an ongoing build. Using backgrounds and muliple light sources makes the final shoot out pleadung for the eye :D

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Nice little studio setup you got there. I got to get my little man-cave corner sorted out.

Maybe I should visit Ingvars little furniture store on my way home some day and buy me some of those spotlights. They are fairly cheap I guess? Four might suffice for standard four point lighting.

/E

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Nice little studio setup you got there. I got to get my little man-cave corner sorted out.

Maybe I should visit Ingvars little furniture store on my way home some day and buy me some of those spotlights. They are fairly cheap I guess? Four might suffice for standard four point lighting.

/E

The spots cost 99 skr and the diode pads cost 199 skr, so it was alright pricewise.

Come on over and have a look at the set up :)/

http://www.ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/40116541/

http://www.ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/40237270/

Edited by Aigore
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