Aigore Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 Did I mention I loath putting on decals? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Did I mention I loath putting on decals? :hangingsmiley:/> Janne, Yeah, you mentioned it a few times. Funny, but I'm the exact opposite, I really like decaling, especially when it comes out looking like paint. :beer4:/> Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
denstore Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Did I mention I loath putting on decals? :hangingsmiley:/> Janne, Yeah, you mentioned it a few times. Funny, but I'm the exact opposite, I really like decaling, especially when it comes out looking like paint. :beer4:/>/> Joel I agree with you both. Decaling is probably the most rewarding stage, but at the same time the one easiest to mess up. So many things that can go wrong, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 (edited) I agree with you both. Decaling is probably the most rewarding stage, but at the same time the one easiest to mess up. So many things that can go wrong, Janne, I've done my share of that lately. Needed to order a 2nd sheet from Fightertown for the A-6E as I screwed up one of the tail decals when a piece of Tamiya tape got too close. That's $40 worth of decals for a $60 model! :bandhead2:/>/> Needed a 2nd kit decal sheet for the Academy F-4B when I did basically the same thing. At least I got the sheet from a ARC member who wasn't using it. Joel Edited January 29, 2015 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 30, 2015 Author Share Posted January 30, 2015 Janne, I've done my share of that lately. Needed to order a 2nd sheet from Fightertown for the A-6E as I screwed up one of the tail decals when a piece of Tamiya tape got too close. That's $40 worth of decals for a $60 model! :bandhead2:/>/>/> Needed a 2nd kit decal sheet for the Academy F-4B when I did basically the same thing. At least I got the sheet from a ARC member who wasn't using it. Joel We modellers are quite insane really......and we really go potty when we begin to afford all those extra stuff :P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 30, 2015 Author Share Posted January 30, 2015 IĀ“m almost done with the darn decals....now thereĀ“s some bad news :/ I need company and division markings and they are on the way....thatĀ“s good but itĀ“ll prolly take at least a month probably more before the decals hits the stores. That means that soon IĀ“ll have to take a break from this build when I donĀ“t have any more stuff to fiddle with until the decals arrive! For now I have still things to do but the box is getting emptier by the minute :P Today I started on the landing gears tho. And they are exquisite!.....and very very complicated to put together! Just look at the build instruction! I put the bogie on to the struts and I hope the supports makes them centered on the struts....always interseting to see if the wheels touch the ground when theyĀ“re finally installed :P Now the bogie actuator didnĀ“t look too straight....em I mean itĀ“s bent.. what ever I`l be replacing themn with piano wire, just need to take a meassurement. And cut the pieces.... I needed the supports from the plastic actuators so I just cut them off, drilled a hole int the bottom part and glued the piano wire in place, then I glued the upper supports onto the struts. I drilled out the lighting holes in the scissorlinks. Now the struts starts looking as it should :D And on with the acutators I primed the struts in black ...and shot gloss black onto the oleos.. Finished off todays session with shooting Alclad chrome onto the oleos. cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aurora Mark Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 Sooooo... what I gather from your last update is that... how to put this... ...it will look as though they actually work like the real thing! Fantastic work and attention to detail. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 30, 2015 Author Share Posted January 30, 2015 Sooooo... what I gather from your last update is that... how to put this... ...it will look as though they actually work like the real thing! Fantastic work and attention to detail. Thanx Mark :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KRI76 Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 Great work! @Joel: yes I admit I didn't get what you meant. Sorry. /Kristian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 30, 2015 Author Share Posted January 30, 2015 Great work! @Joel: yes I admit I didn't get what you meant. Sorry. /Kristian Thanx Kristian :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AnthonyWan Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 Just a heads up... TwoBobs is doing a new release of their older Viggen sheet with the old schemes as well as a couple surprises. If you haven't sealed your decals, might want to hold off... ;) -Anthony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Just a heads up... TwoBobs is doing a new release of their older Viggen sheet with the old schemes as well as a couple surprises. If you haven't sealed your decals, might want to hold off... ;)/> -Anthony Oh I have the old sheet already, nothing on it that will help this build :D There are two massive decalsheets on their way pretty soon :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
denstore Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 Maybe the surprises will be what you need? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 Janne, That really sucks about having to put down the Viggen build for about a month waiting for decals. Since I've been following your builds, you build like I do, one kit at a time, so I know the feeling when you reached a dead end and have to put the build on hold. Any ideas on what you'll be starting in the mean time? For a kit that costs what the Viggen did, having actuators that warped is something that I wouldn't have expected. Your save looks great. The only thing I see is that the kit parts are more of a piston where the actuator rod moves in and out of a cylinder. So Brass tubing would work nicely. I've also made them with a small piece of masking tape. The seam after painting is hardly visible, and if you make sure it faces in towards the fuselage, no one will ever see it. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Maybe the surprises will be what you need? Could be could be :) Janne, That really sucks about having to put down the Viggen build for about a month waiting for decals. Since I've been following your builds, you build like I do, one kit at a time, so I know the feeling when you reached a dead end and have to put the build on hold. Any ideas on what you'll be starting in the mean time? For a kit that costs what the Viggen did, having actuators that warped is something that I wouldn't have expected. Your save looks great. The only thing I see is that the kit parts are more of a piston where the actuator rod moves in and out of a cylinder. So Brass tubing would work nicely. I've also made them with a small piece of masking tape. The seam after painting is hardly visible, and if you make sure it faces in towards the fuselage, no one will ever see it. Joel Not sure yet...I use to build a Star Wars kit this time of year :P It might be some sort of shock absorber, a cylindet with a piston as you said......there is no doubt this kit is overpriced. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jenshb Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 Those undercarriage legs are very nice indeed and seem to be one of the kit's strong features. Maybe the kit designer has a leg-fetish?:) It is surprising then that the legs feature such fine details when the nose wheel hub is naked. Anyway, that long rod doesn't look like an actuator since it doesn't have a hydraulic piston or lines to it - it seems more to be a device to stop the wheel bogie over-rotating. Jens Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Those undercarriage legs are very nice indeed and seem to be one of the kit's strong features. Maybe the kit designer has a leg-fetish?:)/> It is surprising then that the legs feature such fine details when the nose wheel hub is naked. Anyway, that long rod doesn't look like an actuator since it doesn't have a hydraulic piston or lines to it - it seems more to be a device to stop the wheel bogie over-rotating. Jens Thanx Jens :D Indeed, kind of weird and inconsistent...if the rest of the kit had been mirroring that accuracy it would have been bordering to Tamyia quality, but it falls far short of that...... Yup, youĀ“re right about the rod :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Work on the wheels continue... The MLG struts where painted in FS 36622, scissorlink in modelmaster titanium followed by Alclad white aluminium brush paintedand, the support first got painted in Alclad steel and then brushpainted with Alclad white aluminium. And the Oleos in Alclad Chrome. Same with the nose strut, painted in 36622, the oleo in chrome and the support in Alclad steel and a mix of Alclad steel and white aluminium. The MLG folding actuators where painted in a mix of steel and white aluminium and the cylinder in chrome. The Maestro resin wheels... glued on some resin, not the resin brakes tho since theyĀ“re present on the bogie. The nose wheels....looks a lot better than the ones in the box, almost a necessity :D Shot the wheels with white aluminium on top of the flat grey primer, I donĀ“t want the wheel hubs no shine too much since they are rather flat looking IRL. Then I started painting the tires with my seap around technique....just thinned paint with a brush and you get perfect rims every time :D Done ThatĀ“s all folks... next up is detailing the struts :D Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 Janne, Thanks an excellent effort on the landing gear struts and wheels. Very nicely done. I've never even tried to brush paint Alcads, now you have me wondering about that possibility. I use ModelMaster Metalizers for brush painting, especially the buffing types. Really works quite well. A side benefit is that their less then half the cost of Alcads, and around here, are much easier to find as are all Testors and Model Master paints. I've always assumed that you still were building Star Wars and Sci Fi models, as your signature picture is none other then Darth Vadar. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 All that detail is making me giddy. Learning a lot from you -- your tyre-painting technique is awesome! :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 Janne, Thanks an excellent effort on the landing gear struts and wheels. Very nicely done. I've never even tried to brush paint Alcads, now you have me wondering about that possibility. I use ModelMaster Metalizers for brush painting, especially the buffing types. Really works quite well. A side benefit is that their less then half the cost of Alcads, and around here, are much easier to find as are all Testors and Model Master paints. I've always assumed that you still were building Star Wars and Sci Fi models, as your signature picture is none other then Darth Vadar.Joel Thanx Joel :D I use tbe MM metalizers as well...fun thing is that you can mix them with Alclad to get other nuances. Oh the star wars group build is still active....thinking of entering a Imperial guard TIE All that detail is making me giddy. Learning a lot from you -- your tyre-painting technique is awesome! :)/> Thanx crackerjazz :D Just steal away :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 Concluding the wheels :D Started with a couple of small break wires ... Then I made some hydralics, clamped them together with thin strips of tamyia tape... Added a little wire to the nosewheel support. PAinted the MLG hydralics flat black and glued them on...I didnĀ“t go for detail over kill in this, just enough to make it interesting. Needed to add some stuff to the nose gear, one of the landing lights goes onto the strut right below where the support meets the strut and not into the well like the instruction says...only one light goes into the well. And I needed to add a part where the nose wheel hydralics coes into on the other side...not in the box I might add. All the parts clear coated... and assembled...more pieces will go on but not until the struts goes into the fuselage. Some weathering to do and a b it of detail paintign here and there... Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Janne, The landing gear really looks quite convincing. Just enough detail to fool the eye. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted February 3, 2015 Author Share Posted February 3, 2015 Janne, The landing gear really looks quite convincing. Just enough detail to fool the eye. Joel Thanx Joel :D I'm keeping it at a sane level :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erik_g Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Sanity is relative.. but those sure are nice looking ground connection devices.. Strange how flimsy they always look on scale models, while seeing them close up, they look really sturdy.. HereĀ“s the real thing, for those of you who aren't that familiar with the Viggen. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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