Joel_W Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 LOL :D/> I'm sure they pictured you trying on some eyeshadow :P/> Janne, I'm quite sure they did. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 Janne, I'm quite sure they did. Joel Bet you'd look fabulous! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erik_g Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 Looking nice. Good to see that my greasy fingers didn't leave any lasting marks on the finish :-) If you´re going for that tired "noughties" look, you still have some way to go however. But it looks great for a used but not worn out look from the late 80's or 90's. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 Looking nice. Good to see that my greasy fingers didn't leave any lasting marks on the finish :-) If you´re going for that tired "noughties" look, you still have some way to go however. But it looks great for a used but not worn out look from the late 80's or 90's. Thanx Erik :D Oh I've just begun dirtying it up :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Air-to-Air Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 Thanks for sharing the "squiggles" technique, it's a reasonable representation of accumulated grime. To date, I've not been a fan of pre-shading techniques because they often produce an extremely uniform pattern of grubbiness around panel lines that I find generally inconsistent with the weathering on the subject aircraft. However, I think judicious use of the pre-shading technique and more extensive use of the squiggles technique goes a long way to representing the inconsistent colouring and grime accumulation on operational military aircraft. Your Viggen is an excellent example of what can be achieved, I like it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 Thanks for sharing the "squiggles" technique, it's a reasonable representation of accumulated grime. To date, I've not been a fan of pre-shading techniques because they often produce an extremely uniform pattern of grubbiness around panel lines that I find generally inconsistent with the weathering on the subject aircraft. However, I think judicious use of the pre-shading technique and more extensive use of the squiggles technique goes a long way to representing the inconsistent colouring and grime accumulation on operational military aircraft. Your Viggen is an excellent example of what can be achieved, I like it. Thanx Rob :D Like every other techniques... preshade isn't THE technique, it's just another tool in the box. The point is to use every tool to their ability without overdoing it and not to rely on only one tool. That's one of the reasons I hate the debates of one technique vs another...they all can be made to serve a purpose and bring something to the whole :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KRI76 Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 I looks great! Can't wait to see more! /Kristian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 I looks great! Can't wait to see more! /Kristian Thanx Kristian :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anders_Isaksson Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 No big fan av preshading but your method works great! Looking forward to more. :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Troll Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 I want your skills, Janne. Are they for sale..? ;) Looking forward to see you build a splinter-camo 37 after this one... Jorgen "Troll" Toll Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 No big fan av preshading but your method works great! :thumbsup:/> Looking forward to more. :)/> Thanx Anders :D Go ahead and play around with it, Anders....you´ll be making some intresting effects. I want your skills, Janne. Are they for sale..? ;)/> Looking forward to see you build a splinter-camo 37 after this one... Jorgen "Troll" Toll :trolls:/> Thanx Jörgen :D LOL didn´t I just do a splinter AJ last year? There´s no pleasing you is there :P I like painting and there is no short Cuts, you want to be a good painter you have to paint lots.....practise makes skill :P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 The painting continues :D Time for a new color... The 37398 has better painting done here and there, specially where the day glo markings will go both on the fin and the wings. I use fs 35237 for this, this color pretty much looks like the fresh darker gray paint and if you´re doing a freshly painted gray JA then this is the paint to use. I went over with FS 35237 and made some post shading and some postshading and detail paint with FS 35475. You see how the dark grey on top has been further bleached with FS 36475. Next was the nose cone, I painted it with Alclad gloss black, the grey was painted over the black radomes and they didn´t stick very well, this is the base for some fancy chipping later :D Looks kinda cool with a black nose cone don´t ya think :D More painting tomorrow Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Troll Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 LOL didn´t I just do a splinter AJ last year? There´s no pleasing you is there :P You know I'm on to your scheme... You don't actually build models, but steal real aircraft and shrink them! ;) Think of it this way... To really compare old vs. new, you need to make a Tarangus copy of your ESCI/Airfix/TwoMikes Viggen... You owe it to your fans..! :) Jorgen "Troll" Toll Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 You know I'm on to your scheme... You don't actually build models, but steal real aircraft and shrink them! ;)/> Think of it this way... To really compare old vs. new, you need to make a Tarangus copy of your ESCI/Airfix/TwoMikes Viggen... You owe it to your fans..! :)/> Jorgen "Troll" Toll :trolls:/> LOL Thanx ......I think :P Well I still have the SH, SF and SK to do :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 The painting continues.... Masked off the wing probes and first shot some Alaclad white aluminium.... Masked and painted the fin tip white... MAsked some more on the wingprobes and then shot alclad gloss black on top and then removed the masks. Next up was the nose cone....it´s going to get the vaseline treatment.... Like so... MAsked off the tip with a roll of tape... And primed with white and then shot FS 36495 on it. Off with the mask and rubbed off the vaseline. Starting to look like the good old 37398 :D Next is a clear coat and then decals :D Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Janne, This is the 1st time I've ever heard or saw the Vaseline method. Looks very similar to the salt method, but you end up with much smaller patches. Seems also that it's much easier to control. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
erik_g Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Vaseline treatment.. I knew you were a pervert, Janne, but there must be a limit to the perversions! :-D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 Janne, This is the 1st time I've ever heard or saw the Vaseline method. Looks very similar to the salt method, but you end up with much smaller patches. Seems also that it's much easier to control. Joel yeah, it's really good for those small chips :D Vaseline treatment.. I knew you were a pervert, Janne, but there must be a limit to the perversions! :-D Takes one to know one ;) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 I´ve siad it before....but I HATE DECALS! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 Took a little break from the on going torture of putting on decals :P Had a bit of issues with the dayglo decals from Eurodecal, they started getting all bubbly underneath and generally misbehvaing. I´ve popped bubbles and brushed on microsol in 4 sessions now and they still doesn´t look good. Considering cutting my losses and leave them be. And YES I´ve polished the surface and it´s gloss coated!!! :P This is where I´m at right now...still havee a ton of stencils to put on :/ There...back to torturing myself, Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 Janne, Sure looks like all those orange decals from Eurodecal didn't react with the Micro system as intended. They started to wrinkle up, but by the looks of them they never shrunk and tightened up in a uniform manner. Same for the bubbles, there are just too many bubbles to be just trapped air. Seems more like the end result of a chemical reaction. Since the Swedish emblems look perfect, I can't see how the smoothness of the surface would have contributed to this. Have you used this brand of decal before with the Micro system? I've modified my decal procedures after watching Paul Budzik's decaling video and started using Solvaset as the final setting solution. While the decaling process now takes much longer, the results are truly outstanding and very consistent. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 Janne, Sure looks like all those orange decals from Eurodecal didn't react with the Micro system as intended. They started to wrinkle up, but by the looks of them they never shrunk and tightened up in a uniform manner. Same for the bubbles, there are just too many bubbles to be just trapped air. Seems more like the end result of a chemical reaction. Since the Swedish emblems look perfect, I can't see how the smoothness of the surface would have contributed to this. Have you used this brand of decal before with the Micro system? I've modified my decal procedures after watching Paul Budzik's decaling video and started using Solvaset as the final setting solution. While the decaling process now takes much longer, the results are truly outstanding and very consistent. Joel Yeah, I was thinking some kind of reaction was going down as well... The close ups of the dayglo show them kind of still wet. Microsol wrinkles decals but the wrinkles disapears when it dries. The Eurodecals are poo....I'll strip and paint instead I think. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) Yeah, I was thinking some kind of reaction was going down as well... The close ups of the dayglo show them kind of still wet. Microsol wrinkles decals but the wrinkles disapears when it dries. The Eurodecals are poo....I'll strip and paint instead I think. Janne, Certainly a lot more unexpected work, but after all the time and effort you've put into the Viggen build, I really think it's the right decision, and certainly time well spent. BTW, we're expecting a major blizzard snow storm of historic proportions starting Monday night. Gotta love 3 ft or moreof snow. Looks like I won't be going to work on Tuesday (off Monday), But I'll be snow blowing and shoveling snow most of the day rather then modeling. I just can't catch a break. Joel Edited January 25, 2015 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 Janne, Certainly a lot more unexpected work, but after all the time and effort you've put into the Viggen build, I really think it's the right decision, and certainly time well spent. BTW, we're expecting a major blizzard snow storm of historic proportions starting Monday night. Gotta love 3 ft or moreof snow. Looks like I won't be going to work on Tuesday (off Monday), But I'll be snow blowing and shoveling snow most of the day rather then modeling. I just can't catch a break. Joel Neato...we got some snow too...half an inch and it´ll be gone by the middle of the week :P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 Hmmm...I think the issue with the Erodecals are athat they are very thin and dayglo decals are simply too "see through" Had they been printed ontop of white first they should have been fine. Here are the big numerals cured....the bubbles and wrinkles are gone but there are dark patches all over and lots of small holes from me poking bubbles :P I think I have a cunning plan...... Let´s see how this pans out... Here´s a fin wiht the dodgy dayglo decals.....Looks nasty, right? Good thin the Tarangus decals are very thin as well...since then I can do this! I put the Tarangus triangle decals on top...right now it looks thick and flabby but with a bit of microsol it didn´t look half bad actually. And there was a couple eights as well.... NOw there wasn´t any zeroes....so I ha ve to make them :P I used a couple of nines and and fours and started cutting things up. and lastly a piece of four... I call that a save :D Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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