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1/48 Hasegawa F-16a plus to Block 10


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You need to move the antenna that is positioned between the bottom fins forward to below the air intake.

...and remove the two small antenna under the cockpit just aft of the radome.

Not sure but I think the AR light on the leading edge of the Vstab goes away as well.

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Not sure but I think the AR light on the leading edge of the Vstab goes away as well.

Correct. There are quite a few panel lines and cockpit changes required to do a Block 10 accurately. Some are more visible than others. It just depends on how accurate and/or anal you wish to be.

The Early Viper Guide may be of use to you.

Jake

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Correct. There are quite a few panel lines and cockpit changes required to do a Block 10 accurately. Some are more visible than others. It just depends on how accurate and/or anal you wish to be.

The Early Viper Guide may be of use to you.

Jake

Hmm. Wasn't really looking to do a lot of surgery on the kit. Was wanting to do a 174th TFW block 10 bird if it wasn't going to be too much work. Not even sure what block the 'A Plus' is supposed to be anyway. Figured it might be a block 15, but I thought I read somewhere that block 10 had smaller tails than block 15s too.

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Hmm. Wasn't really looking to do a lot of surgery on the kit. Was wanting to do a 174th TFW block 10 bird if it wasn't going to be too much work. Not even sure what block the 'A Plus' is supposed to be anyway. Figured it might be a block 15, but I thought I read somewhere that block 10 had smaller tails than block 15s too.

The A Plus is a Block 10 with the larger tailerons, as found on the Block 15 an on.

However, the Hasegawa kit is a Block 15, so there is not really much to do to get a Block 10.

I wouldn't call that "a lot of surgery":

- sand or cut the C-Style horiztontal stabs to get the early stab

- remove the light ("probe") from the vertical fin's leading edge

- remove the antenna between the lower fins

- remove the antennas aft and below the radome

- add a new antenna under the intake

As Jake wrote, you could go for a super detailed viper, but that is up to you. I wouldn't bother any further exept for the above listed changes, which are visible from a distance.

Edited by Lancer512
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Makes more sense now. Buddy of mine agreed to trade me a set of quickboost early block stabs so won't need to cut the kit ones. When Jake mentioned the panel lines, it kind put me off from wanting to do it, but if all i have do is add/remove antenna and lights.. Panel lines won't probably be all that visible anyway..

Thanks for the info.

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When Jake mentioned the panel lines, it kind put me off from wanting to do it, but if all i have do is add/remove antenna and lights.. Panel lines won't probably be all that visible anyway..

The panel lines differences are mostly around the sides of the engine inlet and on the bottom of the jet towards the rear. You're right--they won't be too noticeable anyway. Build your model and have fun.

Jake

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The A Plus is a Block 10 with the larger tailerons, as found on the Block 15 an on.

The "A Plus" is the Block 15, also known as MSIP I. (MSIP II is the Block 25 F-16C/D)

The PACER LOFT program upgraded Blocks 1 & 5 to Block 10. I'm not aware of any program that upgraded Block 10 airframes to Block 15.

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The "A Plus" is the Block 15, also known as MSIP I. (MSIP II is the Block 25 F-16C/D)

The PACER LOFT program upgraded Blocks 1 & 5 to Block 10. I'm not aware of any program that upgraded Block 10 airframes to Block 15.

Thanks for the clarification. So it's definately not an upgrade of the Block 10. :doh:

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Part of MSIP I (Block 15) was the addition of the two stations on the inlet (STA 5L & 5R) for mounting sensor pods. The larger horizontal stabs were added at the same time to compensate for the forward shift in CG and CP when pods were mounted. That's also why you won't see pods on 5L &5R on Block 10s... ;)

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