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GWH 1/48 scale F-15C


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Joel, your weld line does look much better than the straight molded line, that's for sure! Your approach is one that I'm going to keep for myself as well! Brilliant.

Mark

Mark,

Thanks. I just said to myself; now how would Mark or Tommy have approached this? :rolleyes:/>

The smooth raised lines is what I was ending up with when I tried the stretched sprue. It's exactly what I didn't want. The nice thing about using putty was that when you pull the tape up from one side and then the other, it's pulls the putty as well. The look you see, is how it came out without me having to try and finesse it.

Joel

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Oh, now you have me worried. The Academy box I have is old, so I doubt it has anything updated... What am I in for? Inaccuracies or plain bad fit?

Ken

Ken,

The original GWH F-15B/D release had major shape issues. Some were so bad that GWH for their 2nd boxing made corrections with new parts that were included in the box. There were a few Fuselage issues that were left as is. Since I never bought the kit, I'm not sure how you would tell unless the boxing says so. Sprue Brothers listed the kit as updated parts included. I've seen the updated kit built up, and honestly, it looks like a great kit to me. I'm not a rivet counter by any means. But the finished model needs to look like the real deal. There was some huge threads right here on ARC about it.

Joel

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I have the GWH F-15B/D and the F-15DJ, which basicly is the same kit, with a few detail differences, and in my opinion they are among the nicest kits I've ever seen.

In the B/D kit both the old and new parts where present, and to be honest, I'm not sure that I would have noticed the differences on a built up kit at a show. The only way I can really see it, is to have the parts side by side to compare.

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JA

I just noticed: Old and Slow ... PERFECT

Bro

Pete,

"Old & Slow" has been my Avatar signature as soon as I had enough posts to use my own. This only goes to prove that while you're 20 min younger then me, you're actually slower upstairs where it counts.

Joel

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You're amazing, Joel! That weld line made my day! I'll bet it put a smile on a lot of people's faces. :)/>

Crackerjazz,

Thanks for that comment. It means quite a lot. I'm sure a lot of members have looked at those wields and liked what they saw, but to be honest about it, the fix is really very easy; modeling 101, day 1.:thumbsup:/>

Joel

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It's hard to believe, but I've got another update to post. I've been working on slowly weathering the F-15C. My goal is for an operational looking aircraft that has been well maintained, but ready on the flightline.

After I finished applying all the decals on the fuselage and wings. I sealed them with a few coats of Testors Glosscoat, and let them dry for a day.

Weathering started with Flory's Dark wash,with a few drops of his Light wash in a small metal mixing dish. I then cut the wash 50/50 with plain old tape water, rather then working with the wash full strength. The wash now easily runs along recessed panel lines, and into every nook and cranny.

Rather then apply the wash to the entire fuselage, I used a #03 paint brush, and carefully applied it only along either side of those recesses. As per my usual method I prefer to do one area at a time, rather then the whole top or bottom. So I started with one wing. For rivets I painted a line over each full run.

Using damp Qtips (with my method you go through a ton of them), I rubbed off the excess in a back and forth motion, so that the residue would have the appearance of being blown backwards by the air flow. For the darker color on the wing tops, I rubbed harder then usual, with the end result being a more faded worn look.

My goal is to have the panel lines and rivets blend more into the overall weathered finish, rather then using a darker color that would further draw the viewers eye to them.

After I finished with the flory Washes, I went over a few panels to slightly weather them as well.

Still left to do is the exhaust MNF, which I'm planning on doing with Model Master enamel Burnt Sienna thinned to the consistency of India Ink, and applied as a pin wash.

Joel

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Edited by Joel_W
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Hi Joel - I've been reading and re-reading your secret to realistic effects using wash. I understand you used gloss coat before the wash so it would be easy to clean up? I actually get spiderwebs whenever I do washes. And the puddles leave their mark.

Crackerjazz,

Yes, I seal before I do any washes, which protects the decals and prevents the washes from getting under a decal here and there. Contrary to popular opinion, I not only do washes over gloss sealer, but I also like to use a semi gloss/flat sealer so that the wash has something to bite into, and allows you to leave an uneven, yet natural looking weathering effect. With high gloss I seam to remove way too much of it. The sealer on the Eagle was more of that type.

Spiderwebs is something I've seen from applying any type of paint on top of another type of paint before it's completely dry and cured. That causes the moisture when it rises to the top of the coat to be trapped, and you get the spider effect. Is that what you're referring to?

Joel

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I would say that this is top notch work. The overal finish look great, and the metal area around the engines look stunning!

Denstore,

That's some compliment. I'm more then thankful that you feel that way.

Joel

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Nice work, Joel. I like it how you achieved used but not abused look with panel lines and rivets just barely visible.

Sebastijan,

Thanks so much for stopping by and liking what I've accomplished so far. One of my main goals for this build is to achieve a more subtle weathering finish especially with panel lines and rivets. It just seems to me that the current trend is making recessed lines deeper and wider, and drilling out the rivets so that both the depth and the dia is even larger then the some what over scaled kit molded ones. I've even gone to a lighter shade of gray (still dark enough), to get that look of being part of the overall weathering effect, not the main attraction.

Joel

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