Joel_W Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share Posted December 15, 2014 JA Nice work on the front office and the part fit looks excellent with superb detailing. Not sure why on the nose wheel bay you indercoated the gloss white with NATO Black. Keep 'em coming Bro Pete, It's like pre-shading. It just helps to add some depth to the recesses and nooks & crannies. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share Posted December 15, 2014 Nicohassagin, thanks for stopping by and having a look. Really glad that your liked what you saw. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peterpools Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 JA Still don't get it Bro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share Posted December 15, 2014 Well, I reached my 1st decision issue of the build, and I really can't decide which way to go. The nose cone is a separate piece with a hinge assembly for having it opened, so that the radar can be seen. The basic parts look pretty good but some additional details will be needed. Then there are the two electronic bays right behind the nose cone. Same deal. Nicely detailed, but needs a lot of wiring to make them or one of them look like the real deal. My issue is that with all areas opened up, the over all look of the Eagle isn't what I envisioned. Just can't decide which way to go. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 mmmm....delicious! how does the door over the avionics bays fit? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share Posted December 15, 2014 mmmm....delicious! how does the door over the avionics bays fit? Janne, I'm only able to test fit the bottom and part of the lower sides because there are molded on hinges. From what I cant tell, the fit is pretty good. Right now I'm inclined to close up both electronic bays. Leaning as well to closing the radar cone as well. Just doesn't look like an eagle with it open. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
denstore Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 I've been thinking of buying this kit. How much better than the Hasegawa kit is it? The price difference can be put into aftermarket stuff, and which one would be the better choice then? What about the Eduard/Academy offerings? Are they even close? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share Posted December 15, 2014 (edited) I've been thinking of buying this kit. How much better than the Hasegawa kit is it? The price difference can be put into aftermarket stuff, and which one would be the better choice then? What about the Eduard/Academy offerings? Are they even close? Denstore, I've never built either the Hasegawa nor Academy kits so I have no 1st hand knowledge of those kits. I did follow Aigore's Hasegawa build, and there were some fit issues, and the cockpit wasn't the greatest, hence, he used the Aires cockpit. The GWH kit has a fantastic cockpit, the Aces 11 seat needed work or you can get a AM seat. So far the fit has been perfect. The molded detail looks to be outstanding. Even the missiles come in their own hard plastic containers. If anything, I'll be using AM decals, and the Aires cans if I don't like how the kit cans look once assembled. I'll grant you that it's a rather expensive kit at a MSRP of $80. but I think it's worth it. I've build their P-61A, and their TBD-1 Devastator, both kits had their issues, but neither kit comes close to this release. Joel Edited December 15, 2014 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
denstore Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 Denstore, I've never built either the Hasegawa nor Academy kits so I have no 1st hand knowledge of those kits. I did follow Aigore's Hasegawa build, and there were some fit issues, and the cockpit wasn't the greatest, hence, he used the Aires cockpit. The GWH kit has a fantastic cockpit, the Aces 11 seat needed work or you can get a AM seat. So far the fit has been perfect. The molded detail looks to be outstanding. Even the missiles come in their own hard plastic containers. If anything, I'll be using AM decals, and the Aires cans if I don't like how the kit cans look once assembled. I'll grant you that it's a rather expensive kit at a MSRP of $80. but I think it's worth it. I've build their P-61A, and their TBD-1 Devastator, both kits had their issues, but neither kit comes close to this release. Joel Sounds like a great kit. Must order one as soon as the wallet allows. Thanks for your input! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
B2Blain Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 (edited) Denstore, I've never built either the Hasegawa nor Academy kits so I have no 1st hand knowledge of those kits. I did follow Aigore's Hasegawa build, and there were some fit issues, and the cockpit wasn't the greatest, hence, he used the Aires cockpit. The GWH kit has a fantastic cockpit, the Aces 11 seat needed work or you can get a AM seat. So far the fit has been perfect. The molded detail looks to be outstanding. Even the missiles come in their own hard plastic containers. If anything, I'll be using AM decals, and the Aires cans if I don't like how the kit cans look once assembled. I'll grant you that it's a rather expensive kit at a MSRP of $80. but I think it's worth it. I've build their P-61A, and their TBD-1 Devastator, both kits had their issues, but neither kit comes close to this release. Joel Joel, I am watching this build closelyl. You are doing excellent work. I probably will get this kit at some point. I have a few AM decals that I'd like to use which are for the Hasegawa Eagle. I am curious as to to the sizing of the unique squadron band that is applied at the top of the vertical stab fits the GW Kit. As for price. I think you can get them for around $70 on Ebay, which in my opinion is a bargain compared to the alternative. I am working on a Has F-15C right now which I got for $25, not including shipping. The Aires cockpit was another $30. I have the Hasegawa featherless exhaust from from spares box. But will need to purchase LAU-128 missile adapters and updated ECM/Com antennas. That's another $30 if I go the Wolfpack Design route. You also get better detail and fit with the GW Kit. I'm glad they decided to fix the nose shape issue. I can't wait to get one. Edited December 15, 2014 by B2Blain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted December 16, 2014 Author Share Posted December 16, 2014 Joel, I am watching this build closelyl. You are doing excellent work. I probably will get this kit at some point. I have a few AM decals that I'd like to use which are for the Hasegawa Eagle. I am curious as to to the sizing of the unique squadron band that is applied at the top of the vertical stab fits the GW Kit. As for price. I think you can get them for around $70 on Ebay, which in my opinion is a bargain compared to the alternative. I am working on a Has F-15C right now which I got for $25, not including shipping. The Aires cockpit was another $30. I have the Hasegawa featherless exhaust from from spares box. But will need to purchase LAU-128 missile adapters and updated ECM/Com antennas. That's another $30 if I go the Wolfpack Design route. You also get better detail and fit with the GW Kit. I'm glad they decided to fix the nose shape issue. I can't wait to get one. B2Blain, Welcome to the party. Any and all input is greatly appreciated. My forte and comfort zone has always been WW11 props since I was a small boy back in the late 50s-60s. For what you paid for the Hasegawa kit, you can get all the upgrades and still break even. Checkout Airgore's Hasegawa build, it's really an excellent tutorial on the kit and build. Like I said, I'm hoping that the kit cans are acceptable. The issue from their earlier release is the control rods for the turkey feathers. This time they molded them as a separate piece. Hopefully I can thin them down enough to make them look good. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 (edited) With the cockpit now complete minus the Hud Shroud, Hud, Aces 11 ejection seat, and the control stick, I turned my attention to the lower fuselage assembly. For some strange reason GWH calls this sub assemby the upper fuselage assembly. Go figure. There are just 3 main parts to the assembly, the lower fuselage, and both lower halves of the wings. Each wing assembly attaches to the fuselage by 3 locating pins. The fit is absolutely perfect. It's that good. The joint line is in fact a real seam, but on one side the forward part had a recessed line a little wider then I wanted, which results in a small gap. Since I didn't want to use any glue on the outside surfaces, I worked some Extra thin from the inside of the joint to seal the gap. To decrease the recessed panel line I'll apply a bead of Vallejo White Acrylic putty during the final stages before priming. Apply, set up for 30 seconds, then wipe the excess off with a damp Qtip. The front cockpit sub assemly is firmly secured to the main fuselage not only by a large matting surface, but there is a box type receptical to hold it in the exact position. I test fitted the two sections, which is a perfect flush fit, and it's rock solid. The result does leave a deep joint line that needs to be addressed, that I'll also use Vallejo White Acrylic putty on, so it's really another non-issue. Now comes those dreaded intake trumpets. All injected molded ones are two piece units resulting with two seams. The fit is once again perfect, and even with careful gluing from the outside, you end up with seams. In the past I've just left it as is, since one has to really look directly into the trumpets to see them. I decided before the build to use a technique that Janne (Aigore), a modeling friend has used with great results; White Gloss Latex paint. I carefully taped the engine end of the trumpets closed with Blue painters tape: Using Satin White Latex paint, as I have gallons of the stuff for home painting projects, I carefully filled each trumpet to the top, then let the paint cure for 5 min. Pouring the paint out takes a lot longer then filling them up. I slowly rotated the trumpets so that the paint continued to evenly coat the 4 inside walls. One coat really looked good to me, even though Janne suggested 2 or 3 coats. So I let them dry for a few hours, then removed the tape. I was really suprised at how much paint flowed out and over my fingers!. Cleanup is just was with just warm water. I test fitted one mocked up engine, and I needed to remove the latex paint from the joint. Took about 2 min each with my Dremel and a sanding drum. Then I test fitted both intake trumpets on the lower fuselage. They really looked good. Edited December 19, 2014 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 Cont. part 2 of previous post. The next step was the construction of the air intake ramps. The kit gives you the option of two different positions: Horizontal for on the ground, or a down position for supersonic flight. I opted for the Horizontal position. Each air intake is comprised of 4 main pieces, that fit like a glove. With careful gluing, there is absolutely no gaps. The resulting joint lines are at 90%, the intake fronts edges are literally razor sharp. Some very careful sanding with #320, #600, 4,000, & 6,000 produces a finished air intake that looks like it was a one piece molding. Finally, I test fitted one air in take to see the full effect: Again, thanks to Janne for supplying me with the correct color FS number, and how far into the trumpets to paint the gray paint. The air intakes will be painted fS36375 Light Gray as well as the scale 1st few feet of the trumpets. Well, that's how far I've gotten on my build. Thanks to all for stopping by and reading through this rather long post. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Sacred grass muncher! That kit's pure plastic porn, I got to get one! Looking good there, joel :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 Sacred grass muncher! That kit's pure plastic porn, I got to get one! Looking good there, joel :D/> Janne, Thanks. This is without a doubt the best engineered kit I've ever built. Every fit issue that's associated with the Hasegawa kit, they've seemed to address, and come up with a better way. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nicholassagan Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 Wow! I need to get me some of that white putty...and nice work on the intakes!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Troll Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 Looks great! Any word on a E version from GWH? Jorgen "Troll" Toll Quote Link to post Share on other sites
denstore Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 Looks great! Any word on a E version from GWH? Jorgen "Troll" Toll Is it needed? People say that the Revell kit still is very good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phantomdriver Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 it truly is Quote Link to post Share on other sites
J8kob_F Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 Great job Joel, will definitely be following this! This kit seems to be a very nice one, maybee i should buy me one... Jakob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted December 21, 2014 Author Share Posted December 21, 2014 Wow! I need to get me some of that white putty...and nice work on the intakes!!! Nicholassagan, Thanks for stopping by and liking the intakes. The Vallejo White Putty is amazing stuff used properly. Joel Looks great! Any word on a E version from GWH? Jorgen "Troll" Toll Jorgen, There has been some talk about an E, but nothing from GWH as yet. Joel Great job Joel, will definitely be following this! This kit seems to be a very nice one, maybee i should buy me one... Jakob Jakob, Thanks for stopping by. Your more then welcome to join the party. As for the kit, like I said, so far it's the best fitting kit I've ever built. It's that good. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jinxter13 Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Is it needed? People say that the Revell kit still is very good. As Tamiya's 1/32 Mustang and Spitfire have no equals, Revell's Strike Eagle is the best in it's class.......'nuff said Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Troll Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Really? The Revell E is that good? Have to check it out! Jorgen "Troll" Toll Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paddington Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 It is, definitely ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
305swag Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Janne, I'm only able to test fit the bottom and part of the lower sides because there are molded on hinges. From what I cant tell, the fit is pretty good. Right now I'm inclined to close up both electronic bays. Leaning as well to closing the radar cone as well. Just doesn't look like an eagle with it open. Joel I agree, close all the doors. The eagle looks much better buttoned up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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