Alex Matvey Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 As always these sets from A.M.U.R. Reaver are not simply addition, but correct mistakes of the kits. They make possible to get every variant of F/A-18C/D from early to the latest. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alex Matvey Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 All types of grills and meshes are awailable in two sets. The sets have smallest holes available to reproduce fine outlet covers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alex Matvey Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 Look at this fine details of intake splitter plate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alex Matvey Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Manuel J. Armas S. Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 WOW, Nice stuff... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
solher1 Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 It looks great. But, what is the method/glue you use to get the photo etch to set that nice on the plastic? Thanks in advance. Juan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alex Matvey Posted December 11, 2014 Author Share Posted December 11, 2014 It looks great. But, what is the method/glue you use to get the photo etch to set that nice on the plastic? Thanks in advance. Juan There are some different techniques. Before gluing you need to form the detail exactly to confirm shape of plastic. Then you can use some drops of Microscale Micro liquid Tape for precise positioning of detail. Finaly, apply small drops of super liquid CA glue along the edge of detail to get strong joint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Emvar Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Alex, Message sent through PM. Very nice sets you have. Emil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JeffreyK Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 That does look extremely nice. But I too wonder how you would apply a large single PE part like the one on the lower forward fuselage area and not be able to see the step where it sits on top of the plastic, where in reality it should replace that particular fuselage panel, i.e. it would need to "sink in". But I will check it out. Will you produce your Chaff/Flare buckets again? They show as being out of stock... Cheers Jeffrey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redcorvette Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 (edited) That does look extremely nice. But I too wonder how you would apply a large single PE part like the one on the lower forward fuselage area and not be able to see the step where it sits on top of the plastic, where in reality it should replace that particular fuselage panel, i.e. it would need to "sink in". But I will check it out. Will you produce your Chaff/Flare buckets again? They show as being out of stock... Cheers Jeffrey The instruction sheet mentions the need to "deepen" or "remove' material on the kit parts to make the PE parts fit properly. Without seeing it first-hand, my initial thoughts about the large lower fuselage piece would be to use the kit part as a template to form the bend (after sanding off any raised detail) and then cutting away most of the plastic and using some mounting tabs and/or shims to get a flush fit with the PE part. Removing material from the surface of the kit part to get a large PE like that to fit flush & square would be a very challenging and time-consuming task. I've made miniature home-made "milling" fixtures to remove plastic from flat surfaces in the past but doing it evenly and accurately on a contoured part would be difficult. Mark Edited December 11, 2014 by redcorvette Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Judd Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Amazing! Any plan for 1/72 scale? need 4 or 5 sets. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChippyWho Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 (edited) Must have, must have! The Super Hornet 'mesh sets' are beautiful; I'm sure these are every bit as good. As with any p/e panels, where they are 'stepless' on the real aircraft (like the Hornet gas vents, etc.) it is probably best to carefully cut out the plastic panel completely, clean up the surrounding edges and like Mark says use the plastic you removed as a backing for the etched part. That should get you a perfect shape and you can sink the panel into the fuselage until it is flush. Of course, perfectionists will want to remove the open sections behind the mesh/grill vents -bodgers like me will probably just paint those areas black! Blah blah blabber; 'resting' F/A-18C project (Hobby Boss 1/48), open gun bay, etc. Eduard etched vents backed with plastic strips: Still some work for Mr Surfacer: Inside -still lots to add: Could REALLY have used the AMUR stuff here! There will be many other times... Edited December 11, 2014 by ChippyWho Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SR10user Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Where can you get these sets in the U.S.? Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChippyWho Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Where can you get these sets in the U.S.? Dave They have an eBay outlet -search 'A.M.U.R.Reaver'. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rust Usmanov Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 JFYI - made of steel with a thickness of 0.05 mm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rust Usmanov Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 We don't have dealer in USA, but you can order direct from us - just mail to rust1968@gmail.com Or you can buy on eBay Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alex Matvey Posted December 12, 2014 Author Share Posted December 12, 2014 (edited) The instruction sheet mentions the need to "deepen" or "remove' material on the kit parts to make the PE parts fit properly. Without seeing it first-hand, my initial thoughts about the large lower fuselage piece would be to use the kit part as a template to form the bend (after sanding off any raised detail) and then cutting away most of the plastic and using some mounting tabs and/or shims to get a flush fit with the PE part. Removing material from the surface of the kit part to get a large PE like that to fit flush & square would be a very challenging and time-consuming task. I've made miniature home-made "milling" fixtures to remove plastic from flat surfaces in the past but doing it evenly and accurately on a contoured part would be difficult. Mark Hi Mark. The details have thikness only 0,05mm. They are extremely thin, but very strong, as they made of stainless steel. It's not necessary to carve plastic in some places at all - jus put metal part over. I think, that couple of primer layers will be enough to level-off the surface. To get perfect round shape of large details you can put the detail on hard rubber pad and roll inner surface with smooth metal roller or cylinder using good pressure. There is also good tool for PE parts from Small Shop, as perfect as their other cool tools for PE. Edited December 12, 2014 by Alex Matvey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alex Matvey Posted December 12, 2014 Author Share Posted December 12, 2014 That does look extremely nice. But I too wonder how you would apply a large single PE part like the one on the lower forward fuselage area and not be able to see the step where it sits on top of the plastic, where in reality it should replace that particular fuselage panel, i.e. it would need to "sink in". But I will check it out. Will you produce your Chaff/Flare buckets again? They show as being out of stock... Cheers Jeffrey Hi, Jeffrey. Chaff/flares will be in stock soon, but made using other technology. They will be much easier to handle with. :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redcorvette Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Hi Mark. The details have thikness only 0,05mm. They are extremely thin, but very strong, as they made of stainless steel. It's not necessary to carve plastic in some places at all - jus put metal part over. I think, that couple of primer layers will be enough to level-off the surface. To get perfect round shape of large details you can put the detail on hard rubber pad and roll inner surface with smooth metal roller or cylinder using good pressure. There is also good tool for PE parts from Small Shop, as perfect as their other cool tools for PE. Thanks, Alex. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Alex, As always, truly stunning work! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mrvark Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Hmm, I went on the eBay site, ready to place an order. On the front page of the site it says shipping is $6 for the first item, plus $1 for each additional item. However, when you get to the checkout page, it says $6 each. :( Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rust Usmanov Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Just place sets in basket and request invoice for combining shipping for low price (6 USD for 1-6 sets) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mrvark Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 (edited) Just place sets in basket and request invoice for combining shipping for low price (6 USD for 1-6 sets) For anyone else ordering, I think what Rust is referring to is on the page where you view your shopping cart, there is a small icon above your list of items that says "Message". I saw it just after I hit the PayPal icon. :bandhead2:/> Thankfully, the guys at AMUR quickly made the price adjustment, so it all ended well! :) Edited December 18, 2014 by mrvark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alex Matvey Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 Here is the guide how to bend smooth curve surface Some tips for bending smooth curve surface Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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