double glazing disaster

[lesthegringo]

No, nothing wrong with the house double glazing, this is me seeking assistance after having two major transparency related disasters in the space of 15 minutes.

The subject is the GWH P-61, which features a lot of prominent glazing. My first screw up was when moving stuff around, the transparency sprue somehow ended up on the floor, when according to Murphy's law I stepped on it. Thankfully with the three major canopy parts already removed, the real damage was limited to one part where the sprue attachment point was ripped away, leaving a large rough area, and more importantly a crack. So, while some judicious sanding, polishing and future may reduce the sprue gate damage, what (if anything) can I do about the crack?

The second disaster was when attaching the rear canopy major piece, which to sit properly needs a little more than careful positioning and some future, the same as the front canopy. All was going well, however I must have been a bit too enthusiastic with the Tamiya extra thin, as there is a small but noticeable fingerprint left melted into the canopy.

So any assistance in getting rid of these defects appreciated, although I wouldn't rule out getting replacement parts if I am unsuccessful, as I said the glasshouse noses of these aircraft were very prominent

Thanks in advance guys

[chuck540z3]

Almost any clear plastic flaw can be removed, except a crack. Soaked in Future/Pledge, you might knock down the appearance a bit, but it will always be there.

For a fingerprint, glue mark or scratch, there is relief in the form of polishing compounds and fine sandpapers. Starting with 1000 grit sandpaper and progressively getting finer and finer, with, for example, Tamiya polishing compounds, the blemish can be removed by polishing the plastic. If the mark on the rear canopy is on the inside, you need to remove the canopy altogether to get at it. If it's on the outside, you may be able to "buff it out" using this method.

Hope this is helpful,

Chuck

[lesthegringo]

Thanks Chuck - the glue mark is on the outside, so that should be OK, if a little awkward.

Sounds like the crack is going to be a nasty one, though

Cheers

Les

[chuck540z3]

Thanks Chuck - the glue mark is on the outside, so that should be OK, if a little awkward.

Sounds like the crack is going to be a nasty one, though

Cheers

Les

Further to my comments above, be careful of cracking a canopy while buffing off a seam line or blemish of some kind. Putting a squeezing force on the canopy can cause hair line fractures, some of which you might not see for days. The key is to buff/sand the plastic while avoiding any kind of warping. For a fighter jet canopy, for instance, I try to get a finger on the inside while sanding the top to give it support without squeezing the sides.

Good luck!

[lesthegringo]

Thanks

For fighter canopies, I use blu-tac or modelling clay inside whenever I am doing anything with them, due to past problems with cracking while sanding

[huntermountain]

Thanks

For fighter canopies, I use blu-tac or modelling clay inside whenever I am doing anything with them, due to past problems with cracking while sanding

+1, on the method, AND on the reason why I use it.

[balls47]

Next time, use something besides Tamiya Extra Thin or any glue that is made for modeling. The Tamiya cement that you used softens the plastic so it can be welded together. Try Elmer's glue. That's right, the white stuff that we used to use in school as kids. The pluses are that it won't have any effect at all on the plastic, which means NO fingerprints on your canopy from the white glue. It also dries clear. If you get some where you don't want it, it wipes off with water, even if it has dried. If it's dry, you will have to get it wet and let it soften. Unlike modeler's cement, you can glue your clear part onto a painted part. One down side is that it doesn't have quite the strength as modeler's cement. But, it has plenty of strength for what you need. There are other substances that can be used too. Do some searching on ARC or Google. Good Luck.

[hooknladderno1]

A product available here in the States called "Gator Grip Glue" is great for adhering both clear and photo-etched parts! It flexes when cured so all PE and clear parts to have a "little give", thus reducing the chance of snapping off. Do a Google search for it. It dries clearand holds well. I would describe it as "Elmers glue on steroids"!

David

Edited December 26, 2014 by hooknladderno1

[lesthegringo]

Unfortunately the Gator Grip is not available here in Australia - my stash of future was a present from a visitor from the US. Next time someone visits, that glue will be on the manifest.

As for my problems, judicious sanding with my super and extra fine sanding sticks coupled with Future were enough to make my fingerprints disappear (don't tell the CSI's) but the crack is here to stay. Shame but one of those things. Maybe one day Great Wall Hobbies will answer an e-mail request for help and I can buy some replacements

Cheers gents

[Joel_W]

I'm not very found of white glue for attaching clear glass parts if they have to 1st be blended in with putty. The glue just don't hold the parts well enough, and eventually the part comes off. I much prefer using Tamiya Extra Thin. I've never had any fogging issues, nor slipped and stained the clear parts. Once the glue has set, I can sand, putty, and blend without fear of dislodging the parts, and having to start over.

Joel