ulvdemon Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Afternoon everyone. Since a number of people have been helpful in regards to my F-86 build, I figured I will take the step and show the in progress pics of my current build. Currently this build is practice how to do a natural metal finish, so what better test subject then the Sabre. Enjoy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ulvdemon Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 Unknown how this step developed with the nose, still deciding if I am going to sand it down, putty it or a mixture of both. Currently I am doing the third option. As for the pilot, I am not too worried about it since I am cheating and tinting the canopy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ulvdemon Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 Where it stands now, the sanding and putty stage now. Using Perfect Plastic Putty for the first time, pretty happy with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ulvdemon Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Some more sanding and putty work. Still some ways to go, but getting there. There was an issue with the nose not being flush with the fuselage during assembly. Currently seeing if a mixture of sanding the side of the nose and puttying up the side to make it flush. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ulvdemon Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Worked on this build some more last night. Was able to work on blending in the seams and blend in the step around the nose. Had an issue with the canopy not sitting flush when closed, but a little bit of putty seems to have fixed that up with no problems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Nice progress so far. I do have one question. You've puttied the nose gear and main gear doors, so the final effect once painted would be that those areas are solid pieces. Are you planning on scribing those areas to create the gear doors? Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Great work, really nasty fit issues you had to fix! :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ulvdemon Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 The gear doors will be rescribed. Had to putty to help filing down the issue of the doors not being flush. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Big Daddy Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Boy, those are some nasty fit issues. Not impressed with the quality of the Academy kit. Nice job so far! BD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Exhausted Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 (edited) Nice work closing the gaps, something I worried about when I built exclusively gear-up. What's different with Perfect Putty Edited January 17, 2015 by Exhausted Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ulvdemon Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 Waterbased and easy to clean while still wet. Once dry there is no shrinkage. Very happy with it. Also sands down well as necessary. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ulvdemon Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 (edited) Double post Edited January 17, 2015 by ulvdemon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ulvdemon Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 Worked some more on the build last night. Primed using Mr. Surfacer 500. Once completely dry, I will sand it a bit and see how it looks. I have the option of two different drop tanks, I am currently looking at using the second set. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ulvdemon Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 Base coat for the Alclad laid down last night and primed the drop tanks. Just in case, I have a scrap model for applying the Alclad before I apply it to this build. Enjoy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AX 365 Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Looks good. Make sure the black is a blemish free as possible. Give it a light wet sanding with 2,000 grit wet / dry paper to get out any imperfections. Boo-boos will stand out like a sore thumb if you don't. Good luck. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ulvdemon Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 Thanks for the tips. I am letting it sit for about 48 hours before and then I will be sanding it tomorrow night. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Gloss black base really looks quite good. Is it's Alcad's or another brand? I've used the Alcad and Tamiya's Gloss black, and I actually like the Tamiya paint better. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ulvdemon Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 (edited) Oddly enough, it is Testors Model Master Gloss Black. Plan is to spray tonight if everything looks okay. If nothing else, I will be testing the Alclad on my scrap model. Have to pick up some laquer thinner today first. Edited January 29, 2015 by ulvdemon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Odfly enough, it is Testors Model Master Gloss Black. Plan is to spray tonight if everything looks okay. If nothing else, I will be testing the Alclad on my scrap model. Have to pick up some laquer thinner today first. I'm hoping that it's their enamel paint and not their acrylic line. I've had serious issues with MM acrylics sticking to primers and any paint they're applied on top of. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ulvdemon Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 I'm hoping that it's their enamel paint and not their acrylic line. I've had serious issues with MM acrylics sticking to primers and any paint they're applied on top of. Joel No, it is the enamel from the rattlecan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 No, it is the enamel from the rattlecan. That's great. Just let it dry for a few days as the cans put out a ton of paint, then rub out the finish with polishing pads, and you're set to go. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crackerjazz Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Looking really good! I miss my sabre already. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ulvdemon Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 Was able to work on this on Saturday, great little learning experience. I can see where I need to work on my seam work and get some more practice on spraying Alclad. Had to fight my airbrush since it kept clogging trying to spray, but that is what practice is for. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 (edited) Over all, it looks like a solid NMF. Since you mentioned seam issues, the method I use is the exact same as I do for any model. I prime all seams and putty work. The primer serves two purposes, one it seals the putty/filler, and you can easily see any areas that need further work. I sand the primer with #600 emery cloth wet, then Micro Mesh pads: 4,000, 6,000, 8,000, & 12,000 for NMF. A regular painted surface I just polish through 6,000. Once I'm satisfied with the seams and all areas that I used filler on, I prime the entire model either Mr. Surfacer Primer. It's clogs quickly, so you'll need a retarder, or Tamiya Gray Primer. I thin both 50/50 with Tamiya Yellow Cap Lacquer primer. Once dry, I polish out the primer. If you want a mirror like finish, then a coat of Gloss Black base. Take your pick. I actually prefer Tamiya Gloss Black Acrylic paint over the Alcad Gloss Black (which is enamel based). I let it dry a day, then I polish it out. At this point you should have a super smooth surface to apply your Alcad NMF to. When you said you had issues with your airbrush clogging, was it clogging with the Alcad paint? Despite the Alcad paints being so thin, they recommend a external airbrush with a #3 needle/cone/tip setup. I'm guessing that's about a .3-5mm needle. I use my trusty Paasche H airbrush with a #3 setup. Works great. Joel Edited February 2, 2015 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ulvdemon Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 I was using a Paasche H also. My issue with clogging may not have been with the Alclad, but with the old paint build up. I thought I had it cleaned out, but once I put some laquer thinner on a Q-tip inside the needle, all of the dried paint I thought I got out started oozing out. What a sight. The putty was Deluxe Plastic's Perfect Putty. Still happy with it, just need to do a better job sanding and priming it. The primer, it was Mr. Surfacer 500 from a rattle, which laid down fine, but the black gloss coat came down thick so I may have to move using that through my airbrush. Thanks for the suggestions, will definitely take note. :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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