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Academy 1/48 F-86F


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Afternoon everyone. Since a number of people have been helpful in regards to my F-86 build, I figured I will take the step and show the in progress pics of my current build. Currently this build is practice how to do a natural metal finish, so what better test subject then the Sabre. Enjoy.

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Unknown how this step developed with the nose, still deciding if I am going to sand it down, putty it or a mixture of both. Currently I am doing the third option.

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As for the pilot, I am not too worried about it since I am cheating and tinting the canopy.

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Some more sanding and putty work. Still some ways to go, but getting there.

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There was an issue with the nose not being flush with the fuselage during assembly. Currently seeing if a mixture of sanding the side of the nose and puttying up the side to make it flush.

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Worked on this build some more last night. Was able to work on blending in the seams and blend in the step around the nose. Had an issue with the canopy not sitting flush when closed, but a little bit of putty seems to have fixed that up with no problems.

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Nice progress so far. I do have one question. You've puttied the nose gear and main gear doors, so the final effect once painted would be that those areas are solid pieces. Are you planning on scribing those areas to create the gear doors?

Joel

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Nice work closing the gaps, something I worried about when I built exclusively gear-up. What's different with Perfect Putty

Edited by Exhausted
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Worked some more on the build last night. Primed using Mr. Surfacer 500. Once completely dry, I will sand it a bit and see how it looks.

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I have the option of two different drop tanks, I am currently looking at using the second set.

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Looks good. Make sure the black is a blemish free as possible. Give it a light wet sanding with 2,000 grit wet / dry paper to get out any imperfections. Boo-boos will stand out like a sore thumb if you don't.

Good luck.

Mike

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Oddly enough, it is Testors Model Master Gloss Black. Plan is to spray tonight if everything looks okay. If nothing else, I will be testing the Alclad on my scrap model. Have to pick up some laquer thinner today first.

Edited by ulvdemon
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Odfly enough, it is Testors Model Master Gloss Black. Plan is to spray tonight if everything looks okay. If nothing else, I will be testing the Alclad on my scrap model. Have to pick up some laquer thinner today first.

I'm hoping that it's their enamel paint and not their acrylic line. I've had serious issues with MM acrylics sticking to primers and any paint they're applied on top of.

Joel

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I'm hoping that it's their enamel paint and not their acrylic line. I've had serious issues with MM acrylics sticking to primers and any paint they're applied on top of.

Joel

No, it is the enamel from the rattlecan.

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No, it is the enamel from the rattlecan.

That's great. Just let it dry for a few days as the cans put out a ton of paint, then rub out the finish with polishing pads, and you're set to go.

Joel

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Was able to work on this on Saturday, great little learning experience. I can see where I need to work on my seam work and get some more practice on spraying Alclad. Had to fight my airbrush since it kept clogging trying to spray, but that is what practice is for.

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Over all, it looks like a solid NMF. Since you mentioned seam issues, the method I use is the exact same as I do for any model. I prime all seams and putty work. The primer serves two purposes, one it seals the putty/filler, and you can easily see any areas that need further work. I sand the primer with #600 emery cloth wet, then Micro Mesh pads: 4,000, 6,000, 8,000, & 12,000 for NMF. A regular painted surface I just polish through 6,000. Once I'm satisfied with the seams and all areas that I used filler on, I prime the entire model either Mr. Surfacer Primer. It's clogs quickly, so you'll need a retarder, or Tamiya Gray Primer. I thin both 50/50 with Tamiya Yellow Cap Lacquer primer. Once dry, I polish out the primer. If you want a mirror like finish, then a coat of Gloss Black base. Take your pick. I actually prefer Tamiya Gloss Black Acrylic paint over the Alcad Gloss Black (which is enamel based). I let it dry a day, then I polish it out. At this point you should have a super smooth surface to apply your Alcad NMF to.

When you said you had issues with your airbrush clogging, was it clogging with the Alcad paint? Despite the Alcad paints being so thin, they recommend a external airbrush with a #3 needle/cone/tip setup. I'm guessing that's about a .3-5mm needle. I use my trusty Paasche H airbrush with a #3 setup. Works great.

Joel

Edited by Joel_W
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I was using a Paasche H also. My issue with clogging may not have been with the Alclad, but with the old paint build up. I thought I had it cleaned out, but once I put some laquer thinner on a Q-tip inside the needle, all of the dried paint I thought I got out started oozing out. What a sight.

The putty was Deluxe Plastic's Perfect Putty. Still happy with it, just need to do a better job sanding and priming it. The primer, it was Mr. Surfacer 500 from a rattle, which laid down fine, but the black gloss coat came down thick so I may have to move using that through my airbrush.

Thanks for the suggestions, will definitely take note. :)

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