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Zvezda is by far the most accurate, but so far only comes in the upgraded SM variant (other variants to follow in the future). With some little conversion work, it can be turned into a basic Su-27 as well. As ChippyWho noted, there is a problem with the canopy, but not the one he describes. Zvezda doesn't include the distinct Omega shape cross-section of the canopy if you look to it from the front

Got my Su-27SM from Zvezda this weekend and already started to convert it to a regular Su-27.

I'll try to post pictures soon (in a different thread that is, sorry for the hijack).

Currently working on the IRST. I thought about using a cut out IRST from an Hasegawa or ICM kit, but it seems way too big.

My other concern is the instrument panel. I wish there was a PE set for Su-27 (Zvezda kit) as the IP from the Hasegawa kit is much larger.

Might have to dremel the PE panels...

On a side note, it seems that the canopy is quite close to the Omega shape showing on Ken's pictures.

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On a side note, it seems that the canopy is quite close to the Omega shape showing on Ken's pictures.

Have you checked the canopy for flaws ??

Zvezda were having problems with 'crazing' on the canopy - I hope they have sorted it out by now.......

Su-27SM_69.jpg

Ken

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Mario,

I got a first batch kit as soon as they appeared - and the canopy was OK.

Then I purchased another kit a month or so later from Hannants - and it had the flawed canopy - so I think the fault occured AFTER production started and a few thousand had been run off.

I'm not sure if new/latest production kits have the same problem.

I would also suggest that you email the Austrian distributor on the box side - not Zvezda.

I emailed them and they (the distibutor) sent me a replacement canopy - but it took about six weeks.

(I also copied the email to Hannants - just as a courtesy - and they sent me a new canopy right away - great service)

I hope you get a replacemnet OK.

Ken

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Sebsdijan,

Just found your build thread. I'm more then impressed with your build, painting, and decaling to this point. Like you, I much prefer to do the NMF for the exhausts after priming, but before the color coats. I've had some issues with Alcads pulling up, but they were the shinny shades. Now I know why it happened, and will make sure I don't do that again. Looking forward to your weathering.

Joel

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Platycqb - since we'll have to wait quite some time for Zvezda's basic Flanker variant, I was playing with the same idea as well - converting it back, shouldn't be too hard. Regarding the cockpit - Have you considered using PE parts for Trumpeter kits? I can compare the dimensions between Zvezda and Trumpeter instrument panels if you'd like?

nicholas - thanks

Flankerman - I have received replacement canopy and still wasn't ok. A dip in Future improved the looks, but up close, it's still not perfect. I've tried to polish it, but this special soft clear plastic Zvezda uses for transparencies in the last few years, seems reluctant.

Joel_W - thank you. Yeah shiny shades will be lifted up. Although I noticed they can be used for special effects (use some darker shade for base colour, spray high shine coat over and let it dry. Then apply masking tape over the surface and since the upper Alclad coat will be lifted randomly, you get a metal effect similar to salt weathering. But of course, previous testing on a piece of scrap plastic is recommended to learn to control the effect.

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I also do my exhausts before the main painting - in fact I do them before any other painting.

The reason is, I'm very lazy - and use a rattle can of Humbrol Polished Steel to coat the whole engine area, then mask sections off and buff it to different levels of shine (I leave a section un-buffed).

Su-27SM_39.jpg

Then I use the blue powder from Tamiya's weathering set on a cotton bud to 'paint' stripes across the nacelles.

Finally, I use a silver pencil to mark out the small rectangular hatches....

Su-27SM_62.jpg

The area of the nacelles is then masked off and the build continues.

It is easier to use the rattle can before the fins are fitted - and easier to mask without them getting in the way.

My method isn't as good as Sebastijans - it's quick and dirty and it suits me.

Ken

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Platycqb - since we'll have to wait quite some time for Zvezda's basic Flanker variant, I was playing with the same idea as well - converting it back, shouldn't be too hard. Regarding the cockpit - Have you considered using PE parts for Trumpeter kits? I can compare the dimensions between Zvezda and Trumpeter instrument panels if you'd like?

I will have a look at the Trumpy option.

Thanks for the tip. :)/>

EDIT

And I wouldn't mind having a comparison between Zvezda and Trumpy IP of course!

I need to compare the ICM one too with Zvezda.

Thanks again!

Edited by Platycqb
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....

Joel_W - thank you. Yeah shiny shades will be lifted up. Although I noticed they can be used for special effects (use some darker shade for base colour, spray high shine coat over and let it dry. Then apply masking tape over the surface and since the upper Alclad coat will be lifted randomly, you get a metal effect similar to salt weathering. But of course, previous testing on a piece of scrap plastic is recommended to learn to control the effect.

Sebestijan,

Very interesting effect. I'm still a novice with the Alcad system, although I have 9 different shades in my ever growing collection.

Joel

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I just got my kit today and the canopy was crystal clear!! And THIN my goodness! It was also packed in a ziplock with the pilot figures so it got scratched up...

But still, this looks like a great kit. The panel lines are a little soft/shallow but some rescribing will do it justice...as would a few rivets here and there :)

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