Masking on a paint??

[jetdx]

I am working on a model that requires me to mask off a section of my base paint. I don't want to have to redo my base paint job. So what are some good masking techniques and mediums for masking over my base color. I am airbrushing my base color using tamiya acrylics. On some previous projects I didn't have the problem with the paint peeling off and some projects I did. Would old paint or something else be the reason for paint peeling on some projects rather than others?

Thx for the input!

[VF-19]

I've only really had problems with Tamiya peeling off after masking is when I didn't do proper surface prep. Namely, a dirty surface that had paint applied to it. Normally I use tamiya masking tape for the edges, and then some 3M tape for the coverage.

Give your model a good wash in soap and water, and it'll be fine.

[Woody_]

Or if you want to be sure, before masking apply a coat of future.

[ALF18]

I've had all kinds of problems with Tamiya acrylics lifting up. Solution? Easy. Use a primer. I use Tamiya spray primer, right from the can. It comes in two tones of grey or in white. The primer dries VERY quickly. You can start painting acrylics over top of it within a couple hours at the most after spraying the primer (in fact, even 30 minutes later it is usually dry enough). After that, the Tamiya acrylic paint sticks beautifully, and does not lift off with masking. I have masked with Tamiya tape, with regular masking tape, and with medical tape. All work nicely.

This is Tamiya light grey primer (first pic), followed by a bottom Tamiya acrylic light blue.

I then sprayed Tamiya light brown, after masking the bottom off with Tamiya tape and masking tape.

Finally a Tamiya Dark Earth using medical tape and regular masking tape. Absolutely nothing lifted off.

My secret is the Tamiya primer. I don't even bother washing the finger grease off the model before applying the primer.

ALF

[falcon20driver]

+1 what ALF said. A good coat of primer is priceless in my book, and Tamiya tape is the way to go.

[Netz]

I'd use Tamiya tape, but only one the perimeter, then attach strips of paper towel tapped to the Tamiya perimeter tape, no taping on the field of coverage.

A second recommendation is to use Para-Film M, it's not an adhesive and will not pull up your paint.

Curt

Edited February 26, 2015 by Netz

[marvin20]

I agree with ALF and Falcon, I prime every model that I build, no matter what type of paint I may be using, whether it is acrylics, enamel, or lacquer. I have used the Tamiya primer both grey and white, I still use the white primer occasionally, but a fellow modeler told me about this inexpensive primer that works just as well as the Tamiya primer and is much cheaper. Here's a link to it:

http://www.menards.com/main/home-decor/crafts/spray-paint/all-purpose/touch-n-tone-flat-gray-all-purpose-primer-spray-10-oz/p-1974778-c-8050.htm

[ALF18]

I agree with ALF and Falcon, I prime every model that I build, no matter what type of paint I may be using, whether it is acrylics, enamel, or lacquer. I have used the Tamiya primer both grey and white, I still use the white primer occasionally, but a fellow modeler told me about this inexpensive primer that works just as well as the Tamiya primer and is much cheaper. Here's a link to it:

http://www.menards.com/main/home-decor/crafts/spray-paint/all-purpose/touch-n-tone-flat-gray-all-purpose-primer-spray-10-oz/p-1974778-c-8050.htm

Thanks for the link to an affordable option. I'll definitely look for some of that in my local stores. There are times I still like the light grey Tamiya primer, and that's when I want to paint FS 36375 (light ghost grey). The primer is a very close match for that colour! Underbellies of F-18s and F-16s get a coat of Tamiya light grey primer; job done. I also use the white primer for landing gear on some modern jets.

ALF

[Joel_W]

As a general rule, lacquer based paints will cut right through fingerprints and oils on a model surface, acrylics and enamels won't. True primers aren't paint, their main functions are to a give you a complete neutral color to apply your color coats to, and to give the paint a surface that it can easily bind to. Today, model primers come in lacquer, Acrylic, and enamel bases. I much prefer Tamiya lacquer based primers. For small parts I use a rattle can, for larger jobs I use my airbrush.

Surface prep is still important, as not only does it remove body oils, mold release oils, etc., it also removes dust and sanding particles. I use plain old 70% Iso Alcohol to clean the model and or parts. Air dry in a closed container. From there on I wear cotton or Latex gloves when handling the model.

Joel