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Fairly obvious question, which is the best primer. I use various types of paints, so has to be compatible, and also for preference easily obtainable and not stupidly expensive,

It can either be a rattle can, or jar / tin, as long as it sprays nicely

Les

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Check out this video if you have not seen it.

I have had good results with Alclad primers, just make sure you clean the plastic good first. More recently I obtained some Mr Color self leveling thinner and have used that with Mr Surfacer (1500 gray and black) with outstanding results. After watching Mr Budzick's video I have started using a larger airbrush nozzle and that has made a big difference in the smoothness of the finish.

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Thanks, I have some mr surfacer somewhere, I'd forgotten all about it. Does it adhere as well as the rattle can primers?

Les

I did not have issues, but I did not do a lot of masking over it this time. If you clean the surface good before you paint, you should not have any problems. I use either alcohol or Polly S plastic prep.

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I'd say Mr. Surfacer is the way to go. I've been using it for ages. But I've found that surfacer 1000 lays down smoother than 1200 or 1500. Just use levelling thinner.

Masking is no problem, it adheres really well.

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For years my go to primer has been and still is Tamiya light gray primer that I thin 50:50 with their Yellow cap lacquer based thinner. I've also been using Mr. Primer/Surfacer 1,000 thinned the same way, and get equally consistent results. To me, those are the two best primers for modelers. And yes, they're lacquer based, so there is a smell issue, and the need to use the proper respirator mask.

Joel

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I rarely prime anymore, preferring to simply washing and drying the model prior to painting. However, when I do prime, I use automotive primer. Can't remember ever really having a problem that could be blamed on the primer. It's cheap, readily available (My closest hobby shop is 70 miles away) and (most importantly) it does what I want, when I want it).

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Yessir, I find myself priming more and more. It's the best way to find areas that need extra attention.(for me anyway) I buy the stuff that is similar to the primer that Paul Budzick advises to use. I make sure that the primer is lacquer based. (I can tell this by the CAREFULLY using the sniffer, and directions advise to clean with lacquer thinner. The product usually makes mention that it is for building and filling scratches. The product also mentions that it is to be sanded with wet-or-dry sandpaper. If I am building a model for the shelf, I may spray it straight from the can. However, I usually shake it very well, then decant it for use in an airbrush. However, after watching Mr. Budzick's video on priming, I may purchase one of the guns that he mentioned in the video.

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The Best Primers are, from a can, Tamiya Spray, White or grey.

From a jar, Mr. Surfacer, any.

There are many alternatives, but those are hands down the best.

Curt

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The Best Primers are, from a can, Tamiya Spray, White or grey.

From a jar, Mr. Surfacer, any.

There are many alternatives, but those are hands down the best.

Curt

Curt,

Are you saying that the Tamiya Rattle can Gray primer is different then their Gray Surface primer that one applies through an air brush? I've always been under the impression that they're exactly the same product.

Joel

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I can't say,I haven't used their primer from a bottle, but from my experience the Spray cans are very nice, I was impressed, I don't usually use paint from a can, but they were recommended to me by a fellow club member for use under Alclad, and it was extremely easy to use and laid down very thin. I don't use primers generally, only for special projects, I try to keep paint layers to a minimum.

Basically to answer the OP's question, I kept my recommendation to the basics.

Curt

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I very much like Surfacer 1200, cut with Mr. Hobby leveling thinner, or Tamiya lacquer thinner (yellow cap). I also have Tamiya gray primer in the bottle, but Surfacer is better.

Believe it or not, I also find MM enamel primer to be a very nice complement. I always add around 40% of this into Surfacer 1200 and use the same thinners above. MM primer seems to keep things quite "wet" for a while and I love it. After priming, I don't touch the model for a few days. Once cured, I use an old cotton tshirt to gently scrub the whole surface, giving it a nice silky finish. This is one of the most enjoyable steps of modeling for me.

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Thanks for all the replies guys.

I dug out my surfacer (1200) and tried with that. As mentioned above, worked great applying it, and making over it gave no issues for the gunze lacquers after.

One problem I did have was that it clogged my spray-gun (badger 350 type single action) and even though I could get air to travel down the paint feed tube into the jar containing the thinned (tamiya yellow cap) surfacer, after a while it woul refuse to come out until I stripped down and cleaned everything. It was well thinned too.

Any ideas on what I have done wrong?

Les

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Thanks for all the replies guys.

I dug out my surfacer (1200) and tried with that. As mentioned above, worked great applying it, and making over it gave no issues for the gunze lacquers after.

One problem I did have was that it clogged my spray-gun (badger 350 type single action) and even though I could get air to travel down the paint feed tube into the jar containing the thinned (tamiya yellow cap) surfacer, after a while it woul refuse to come out until I stripped down and cleaned everything. It was well thinned too.

Any ideas on what I have done wrong?

Les

I have had the same issue with Mr. Surfacer 1,000 but not with Tamiya's Primer Surfacer. I usually keep a Qtip soaked with lacquer thinner ready to go that I use to wipe the needle tip with when it starts to clog. I keep on telling myself to order some Lacquer retarder to see if that helps.

Joel

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I was going to recommend a retarder also as Joel mentioned, also a double action gun will help as you will keep the needle moving which reduces the chance of coagulation on the needle.

Curt

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Kurt,

Any suggestions as to whose lacquer retarder to use?

Joel

If you're using Mr Surfacer, use the Gunze product. You have two choices. You can use Mr Leveling Thinner, which comes in similar bottle sizes to its regular thinner, or you can buy the regular thinner and add Mr Paint Retarder to get the same effect. Personally I do the latter: its more economical than having a bottle of levelling thinner which I don't have much use for. Also you can change the ratio of mix with paint retarder, rather than being stuck at one concentration with levelling thinner. I think the latter is more useful if you're primarily a brush painter and need strokeless paint jobs every time.

A couple of other things. Gunze makes more than just grey primers... they also have a black and white (IIRC), surfacer that does a great job if you're doing a natural metal finish with alclad. I usually try to gloss up the finisher with paint retarder and a few drops of their clear product.

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I like Tamiya rattle cans, I usually use the White for small detail work, like cockpit parts and the like. However for bigger jobs I usually use gunze shot out of the air brush.

Edited by -Neu-
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I wouldn't say there is a best but it comes down to what works for you and easiest to get a hold of. Japanese brand primers are general expensive but i'm sure you already know that. for me, tamiya and mr.surfacer 1200 out the rattle can are my favorite. I haven't found the right thinning ratio for out of the bottle yet.

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