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I scored a 737-800 in a trade (1:144) and all the windows are "cut out." This is my first airliner so here is what I'm guessing goes on. There are black window decals that I'm assuming go over these holes, then there are a few other decals that seem to be window shades in various degrees of being closed, some completely closed. Again I'm assuming these go over some of the already blackened windows at random. If I lay these decals down will Micosol cause these decals to: 1. sink in 2. tear 3. what can I expect from the water that seeps inside the kit through these holes? Like I said this is my first stab at an airliner and I'd be greatful for some input. My other option would be to fill the holes, sand it smooth and hope I don't lose too much detail so that I can place the decals accurately.

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I always fill in any fuselage side openings with strip plastic on 1/144 models. If you wipe the excess putty away with a solvent, you can avoid abrasives damaging any detail. Just make sure to wipe carefully so you don't remove putty below the plastic surface. A find little bit of indentation can be useful for locating the decals later, but YMMV.

As for the fuselage glass, I paint them black from the inside and then mask as normal.

DSCN0217_zpseazdpljx.jpg

HTH

Edited by dnl42
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That's a matter of taste. You probably also got cabin window decals without the black parts on the sheet, they line up with the kit's openings. This only works when you paint the fuselage black or give it a good primer so the windows get a dark appearance. I always do this, I think it looks more vivid than flat window decals, especially on cockpit windows.

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I have had success with Micro Kristal Klear for small windows. Great product that cleans up with water. Has saved me from a lot of tedious masking on some projects.

Cheers

Paul

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Don't try to use the decals over un-filled openings as they likely won't line up perfectly and will also sink in. Run a piece of styrene along the inside of the fuselage behind the opening, then use appropriate sized rectangular stock placed vertically into opening from front, apply a little glue and trim flush. You'll still need a bit of filler but it is much easier than dealing with the shrinkage of trying to fill the whole opening with putty. Sand it all smooth and then use the decals.

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Don't try to use the decals over un-filled openings as they likely won't line up perfectly and will also sink in. Run a piece of styrene along the inside of the fuselage behind the opening, then use appropriate sized rectangular stock placed vertically into opening from front, apply a little glue and trim flush. You'll still need a bit of filler but it is much easier than dealing with the shrinkage of trying to fill the whole opening with putty. Sand it all smooth and then use the decals.

This is true when you want to use the solid grey windows but I always apply the transparent ones over the openings without problems. Yes, they shrink, but just a very little bit and almost not noticable. A few layers of clear coat (which is necessary anyway to protect all decals) toughens them up enough to stay that way. Some models have been sitting in my shelf for years and the windows still look good!

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The cabin window line on this kit is about 2mm too low (one of a number of accuracy issues - the engine and winglet shapes are off) so it's best to fill and use decals anyway.

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My time tested, fool proof method for eliminating (not filling in) airliner windows.

Cut out the posts between each window, leaving a long narrow opening in the fuselage. Roughly file down the edges so you have a basically rectangular shape. Fit a piece of thick strip styrene into the hole. Glue securely, with some protruding from the side of the fuselage. Then file and sand to match the contour of the fuselage.

Window_Filling.jpg

Edited by Jennings
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