New 1/32 Zotz F-4B decal sheet

[Alpagueur]

With our stuff added it is a very nice model, but you will need SAC landing gear as the kit legs are very weak, even for the kit built with no resin.

I already have the Flightpath metal undercarriage, designed for the Revell kit (this is the main reason why I'd like to take advantage of it... the second is that I already have the F-4F kit at home )

I was taking a look here:

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=55648

and I was wondering if your G cockpit does correct the Revell kit issue (the rear bath tube floor is too low and consequently the seat "sinks" too much, while the headrest should be much closer to the canopy)

regards.

Edited July 2, 2015 by Alpagueur

[ghatherly]

I already have the Flightpath metal undercarriage, designed for the Revell kit (this is the main reason why I'd like to take advantage of it... the second is that I already have the F-4F kit at home )

I was taking a look here:

http://forum.largesc...showtopic=55648

and I was wondering if your G cockpit does correct the Revell kit issue (the rear bath tube floor is too low and consequently the seat "sinks" too much, while the headrest should be much closer to the canopy)

regards.

The tub is correct. Our Tamiya and Revell F-4 cockpits are essentially the same other than slight differences demanded by the installation and fit. The main differences are that the Tamiya cockpits mounts with screws like the Kit tub and the Revell tub hooks behind the removed rear deck and rest just above the Front Wheel Well. The Revell kits come with more parts than the Tamiya, as we provide side sills where the canopies rest, Rudder peddles, Canopy jettison handles, and the front instrument panels are different to fit the Revell cockpit better. these parts come with the Tamiya so we do not provide for the redundancy.

Here is a picture of our RF-4C ARN-101 tub installed into a Revell RF-4C kit. In the pictures the Side sills are intalled and filled with CA glue with the mounting tabs removed. Also shown are our Revell intakes.

Heroes a cutaway for installation showing you how the intakes fit into the Revell kit, and what needs to be removed and/or modified.

Here is a picture showing the front of the tub mounted, so the front of the side sill that runs along the side next to the instrument panel fits. It is best to assemble the forward fuselage, mount the tub, and then make the cut aways for the intakes. all of this explained in detail in the installation instructions.

This picture shows the tub installed, the sills in place but not glued to the side wall. alignment tabs shown are removed after gluing into place.

Love the questions, fire away!

[Alpagueur]

The tub is correct. Our Tamiya and Revell F-4 cockpits are essentially the same other than slight differences demanded by the installation and fit.

Will it work with the F-4F (Revell Germany) boxing?

I do not have the new G boxing...

thanks.

Edited July 3, 2015 by Alpagueur

[ghatherly]

Will it work with the F-4F (Revell Germany) boxing?

I do not have the new G boxing...

thanks.

YES it will. Our Revell intakes and exhausts will fit all of the Revell F-4's of the "New Tooling" All of these are the same basic kits, what differentiates them are some different inclusions to make the different versions. The first kit was the F-4F, then they added slatted elevators and different cockpit instruments and missiles for the E. The G just has an additional parts tree with the missiles and Weasel parts. The RF-4C/E are the same base kit, with a Recce forward fuselage and short exhaust cans for the "C" version. Hope this helps and I appreciate your questions.

Thanks for your interest,

Gary

Edited July 3, 2015 by ghatherly

[Alpagueur]

Hi Gary, my biggest doubt concerning the Revell kit is if it's only the radome undersized or the entire muzzle (from windshield end to pitot)

If it's only the radome misshaped then I could use the Sierra Hotel (or AMS) conversion, but if it's the whole muzzle it will need a lot of work.

Which kit do you suggest me to start from then?

cheers

Edited July 3, 2015 by Alpagueur

[ghatherly]

Hi Gary, my biggest doubt concerning the Revell kit is if it's only the radome undersized or the entire muzzle (from windshield end to pitot)

If it's only the radome misshaped then I could use the Sierra Hotel (or AMS) conversion, but if it's the whole muzzle it will need a lot of work.

Which kit do you suggest me to start from then?

cheers

Are you building an E,F,or G? Since you already have the Flight path kit, I would stick with reveal if you are building a G, as the fix reveal made to that nose looks fine once the chin pod is installed. For an E or F, I would go with the AMS nose.

[Alpagueur]

Are you building an E,F,or G? Since you already have the Flight path kit, I would stick with reveal if you are building a G, as the fix reveal made to that nose looks fine once the chin pod is installed. For an E or F, I would go with the AMS nose.

I'm planning to build a G-bird.

Edited July 3, 2015 by Alpagueur

[ghatherly]

I'm planning to build a G-bird.

Building the Revell as a F-4G using the new G kit, they changed the nose on top, and the bottom is covered up by the chin pod so it looks much better then the nose on the E/F. With your Flight path set, it has extensive PE including the cockpit side details for the canopy lock mechanism, if you were to use the GT Resin F-4G Super Set ( Cockpit, Antennas, Belly Strap, and Exhaust set) and GT Resin intakes and you have the makings of a spectacular build!

Cockpit Set

Antenna Set w/ Chin Pod and PE APR-38 Antennas

Thanks,

Gary

[ProfessorOfDeath]

Is this the set that ripped off Furballs 1/48 product?

[Eli Raphael]

Is this the set that ripped off Furballs 1/48 product?

Be very careful of what you write in this forum.

[fulcrum1]

Are there any more of the sheets left?

[Eli Raphael]

2

[Scott R Wilson]

The throttle even has the HOTAS controls and afterburner levers.

For anyone interested in such details, I think what Gary called "afterburner levers" are the little flat paddles on the fronts of the throttles that were called "finger lifts" if I recall correctly. When the throttles were in cut-off you had to lift those to move the throttles forward to idle, and when shutting down you again had to lift them to move the throttle to cut-off. The finger lifts were basically locks to prevent accidentally shutting off the engines or accidentally moving the throttle forward when you wanted the engine shut off.

There were no "afterburner levers." To select afterburner, the throttles were pushed forward to full military, then pushed slightly outboard and further forward to select afterburner.

Gary, your stuff looks outstanding! I hope your sales are brisk after all the work you put into this.

Scott W.

[Scott R Wilson]

For anyone interested in such details, I think what Gary called "afterburner levers" are the little flat paddles on the fronts of the throttles that were called "finger lifts" if I recall correctly. When the throttles were in cut-off you had to lift those to move the throttles forward to idle, and when shutting down you again had to lift them to move the throttle to cut-off. The finger lifts were basically locks to prevent accidentally shutting off the engines or accidentally moving the throttle forward when you wanted the engine shut off.

There were no "afterburner levers." To select afterburner, the throttles were pushed forward to full military, then pushed slightly outboard and further forward to select afterburner.

Gary, your stuff looks outstanding! I hope your sales are brisk after all the work you put into this.

Scott W.

To add a little more detail, finger lifts were only in the front cockpit, from the rear you could not move the throttles into nor out of cut-off. The rear cockpit throttles could only be moved from idle to full mil from the rear cockpit, you couldn't select burner from the rear. The front and rear throttles were connected together, so when the pilot moved the throttles outboard and then forward for burner, the rear throttles moved the same distance. Same for cut-off, the rear throttles moved with the front when the pilot lifted the finger lifts.

Edited July 7, 2015 by Scott R Wilson