maurizio Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 Sanding the parts with spray primer (Tamiya) used as liquid filler. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
coneheadff Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Unbelievable!!!! Wonderful job!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Loach Driver Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 That is very impressive work. LD. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 Reshaping ....done! Not so bad IMHO. please note that the upper angles of the tail must be sanded in order to have rounded angles BUT this could be easily done in future. My first goal is to have the correct half semifuselages. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hawkwrench Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 Unbelievable scratchbuilding! She's looking really good. Great job you've done so far! Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lupusprimus Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 What kind of putty you use? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GMK Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 I admit, I was sceptical at first. But, wow! That looks amazing! Very, very cool. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 Thanks guys, I use the following materials as putties: Squadron White putty, a mix of CA glue and bicarbonate of sodium (for very strong surfaces), Gunze 1000 liquid putty and the Tamiya spray primer for very light scratches. ...and now THE CUT !!!! First of all I used the pencil for the line, then the Trumpeter Scriber and finally the cutting disc mounted on the minidrill. Remember, I'm going on to add all the interiors! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 (edited) It's time to think about the side sponsons. In order to save time I've decided to keep the kit sponsons made of cast resin. They are a good starting point but they must be revised a little bit. Sponsons must be modified now for studiyng an easy but strong point(s) of attachement to the fuselage. These are the conversion sponsons. This is the first job made on them: I've made a lot of holes in order to have a much more light piece to be attached on the side of the fuselage with pivots. Drawings of the modification. The drawing shapes are excessive - just for a better idea. Edited August 10, 2015 by maurizio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 Another useful drawing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Wow..that's impressive work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jgrease Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 That is impressive stuff. Looking forward to the next installment. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 Hi there, thinking about the lower part of the chopper comparing the 2 pieces, the kit one and the resin one... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 Cutting the Attic resin lower structur in order to save the curved end.... ....but is not straigh!!! ...too much!!!! please refer to the Trumpeter scriber blade height... it's about 2-3 mm! DAMN! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chief Snake Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 The thickness of the resin in my kit was just as bad. An advantage of using two SH-3 kits was that all parts invested had the same thickness. Still, your work is awesome. Chris M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jennings Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Wow!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 Smoothing the interiors with putty. I like modelling on clean surfaces.... Note the front door is cut first using the Trumpeter scriber and then the cutter for a sharp cut. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
coneheadff Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Can't await to see that project finished! Wow!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
philippe.chauvin Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Hi, Amazing conversion ... BRAVO Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 Here is the resin APU piece. It is completely different from reality so I must reshape it. Here is a picture of the APU on the real heli. It is located back to the left engine exaust close to the main rotor head. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rich in name only Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 What "tools" do you use to smooth the interior putty, especially in the tight spaces? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 Dear Rich, I use a normal 240 grid sand paper first, then a very used 240 grid sand paper for flat and curved surfaces where a primer will be used later. For flat surfaces I also use that Yellow tool showed before. It is a sort of plastic block with a piece of sandpaper sheet attached with velcro. It is very easy to use and you can change different papers of different grids within a couple of seconds. It is availabe in DIY shops OR you can easily made one by yourself. Also note that the use of the tool sides or/and angles is very good specially for difficult/strange surfaces. I hope I made myself clear... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 (edited) Hi there! here is the result of the fuselage modification from a SH-3 to HH-3F. The surface is completly smooth. I'll take care of the right panels later on. I would spend some words about the new primer I've used for the first time. It is named "ARMY PRIMER"and it is made in Denmark. The spray bottle is 3 times of the Tamiya one (for example, euro 7) and it costs euro 12. The online shop stated that this kind of spray primers could be used as a normal spray paint and .... it's true! The surface is completely smooth at the very first pass BUT you must keep your spray can at the exact distance of 20 cms from the surface. I didn't recognized the medium grey so I bought the "wolf grey" that is a dark French Ble-gray. Not too bad anyway. You can see the surfaces after a light pass of the Army Primer WITHOUT any other modification. Also note the good internal curves on the top of the tail/rear ramp. I wouldn't take care of the inner part of the tail. Windows have different shapes and dimensions. Edited August 17, 2015 by maurizio Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Loach Driver Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 That is an incredible piece of work. Flawless. LD. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maurizio Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 Preparing the rear inner ribs with stirene strips. My daughter put a clip, too.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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