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Reshaping ....done! Not so bad IMHO. please note that the upper angles of the tail must be sanded in order to have rounded angles BUT this could be easily done in future. My first goal is to have the correct half semifuselages.



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Thanks guys,

I use the following materials as putties: Squadron White putty, a mix of CA glue and bicarbonate of sodium (for very strong surfaces), Gunze 1000 liquid putty and the Tamiya spray primer for very light scratches.

...and now THE CUT !!!! First of all I used the pencil for the line, then the Trumpeter Scriber and finally the cutting disc mounted on the minidrill. Remember, I'm going on to add all the interiors!


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It's time to think about the side sponsons. In order to save time I've decided to keep the kit sponsons made of cast resin. They are a good starting point but they must be revised a little bit.

Sponsons must be modified now for studiyng an easy but strong point(s) of attachement to the fuselage.

These are the conversion sponsons.



This is the first job made on them: I've made a lot of holes in order to have a much more light piece to be attached on the side of the fuselage with pivots.


Drawings of the modification. The drawing shapes are excessive - just for a better idea.


Edited by maurizio
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Cutting the Attic resin lower structur in order to save the curved end....


....but is not straigh!!!


...too much!!!! please refer to the Trumpeter scriber blade height... it's about 2-3 mm!



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Here is the resin APU piece. It is completely different from reality so I must reshape it.



Here is a picture of the APU on the real heli. It is located back to the left engine exaust close to the main rotor head.


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Dear Rich,

I use a normal 240 grid sand paper first, then a very used 240 grid sand paper for flat and curved surfaces where a primer will be used later. For flat surfaces I also use that Yellow tool showed before. It is a sort of plastic block with a piece of sandpaper sheet attached with velcro. It is very easy to use and you can change different papers of different grids within a couple of seconds. It is availabe in DIY shops OR you can easily made one by yourself. Also note that the use of the tool sides or/and angles is very good specially for difficult/strange surfaces.

I hope I made myself clear...

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Hi there!

here is the result of the fuselage modification from a SH-3 to HH-3F. The surface is completly smooth. I'll take care of the right panels later on.

I would spend some words about the new primer I've used for the first time. It is named "ARMY PRIMER"and it is made in Denmark. The spray bottle is 3 times of the Tamiya one (for example, euro 7) and it costs euro 12.

The online shop stated that this kind of spray primers could be used as a normal spray paint and .... it's true!

The surface is completely smooth at the very first pass BUT you must keep your spray can at the exact distance of 20 cms from the surface. I didn't recognized the medium grey so I bought the "wolf grey" that is a dark French Ble-gray. Not too bad anyway. You can see the surfaces after a light pass of the Army Primer WITHOUT any other modification.

Also note the good internal curves on the top of the tail/rear ramp. I wouldn't take care of the inner part of the tail.

Windows have different shapes and dimensions.



Edited by maurizio
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