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Another 1/48 scale Hasegawa A4F


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That masking really looks tedious! Glad to have found your scooter Joel. I rarely make it to the group builds as I don't build fast enough to be in one! Haha. The group builds look like fun though. This thread is going to make me want to buy one of the Eduard kits even if it is pricey. Looking forward to more of your work Joel.

-Mark

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I finally got enough accomplished for another update.

The wings, & Stabilators were glued on, and a little Bondo was needed to blend everything in. I also masked and glued on the windscreen. And yes, I know that the kit comes with Eduard masks, but for the life of me I couldn't remember where I put them so I wouldn't loose them. Of course, now that I masked the windscreen, I found them. Just might pull off my so so effort and use the masks.

A-4F_032.jpg

A-4F_033.jpg

And the bottom of the Scooter. I also needed some Bondo to blend the wing section with the fuselage. I also decided to use the option of dropping the flaps as most of the pictures of the real aircraft have the flaps in the down position while parked.

A-4F_043.jpg

A-4F_038.jpg

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The leading edge light lens was a very poor fit. So I just got it to seat into the wing, then I used several coats of CA gel to build up the lens, sanding each coat out. Then I polished it from 4,000 to 12,000 grit. A little polishing compound added that final touch. While it looks a little milky, the fit is smooth as silk with no ste[s that I can detect.

A-4F_035.jpg

Next up is preparing for the 1st coat of primer.

Joel

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That masking really looks tedious! Glad to have found your scooter Joel. I rarely make it to the group builds as I don't build fast enough to be in one! Haha. The group builds look like fun though. This thread is going to make me want to buy one of the Eduard kits even if it is pricey. Looking forward to more of your work Joel.

-Mark

Mark,

for the level of work you model at, you work at a perfect pace. These group builds last 6 months, so one has plenty of time to finish.

I just posted an update, so stop by when you have a chance.

Joel

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Mark,

for the level of work you model at, you work at a perfect pace. These group builds last 6 months, so one has plenty of time to finish.

I just posted an update, so stop by when you have a d chance.

Joel

As always Joel you are too kind with your comments on my work! I can't believe how quickly your scooter has shaped up. Maybe I should have started with a smaller kit. At least that's what I am thinking now a' days. Seven months and I still don't have my wings attached but, believe me I am trying hard to get there. So see, if the group build lasts six months, I still would be slow! Haha. Maybe you need a year for a Hog group build! Haha. Anyhow, great progress and following for sure!

-Mark

We will have to catch up on the "tones" question later.

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As always Joel you are too kind with your comments on my work! I can't believe how quickly your scooter has shaped up. Maybe I should have started with a smaller kit. At least that's what I am thinking now a' days. Seven months and I still don't have my wings attached but, believe me I am trying hard to get there. So see, if the group build lasts six months, I still would be slow! Haha. Maybe you need a year for a Hog group build! Haha. Anyhow, great progress and following for sure!

-Mark

We will have to catch up on the "tones" question later.

Mark,

It's really hard to compare your super detailed and corrected A10 Hog to my just about OOB Scooter. Plus Hasegawa really pulled out all the stops and everything just falls together. As for details, just checkout the wheel wells. As for a year long Hog GB, I'd sign up and build at least one with some added details and corrections. Betcha a lot of guys would too.

Joel

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Well, I'm home for another week of vacation to take care of the 1st round of oral surgeries scheduled for Tomorrow. Anyway, work continued on the Scooter, and I finished prepping the Fuselage for priming.

For primer I've been using Mig Acrylic gray primer thinned 1:1 with Tamiya X20-A, and applied in very light coats. The problem is that it takes forever to cover anything. So I'm going to be trying 2:1 or even 3:1 and increasing the flow rate to 20-22 psi and see if the coverage is any better, while still ending up with a very smooth surface. Mig acrylics applied to heavily ends up drying with a orange peel effect.

I've also switched from using my Iwata M1 for overall coats to an Iwata M2 which has a much larger bowl, and a .4mm cone. This is now my standard AB, with the M1 for close in detail work. The best of both worlds.

A-4F_045.jpg

A-4F_046.jpg

I let the primer cure for a few hours, then applied a base coat of Tamiya XF-2 white thinned 1:1 with their Yellow Cap Lacquer Thinner. I followed that up with a blotchy random pattern of 10 drops of XF-2 white to 2 drops of XF-20 Medium Gray thinned 2:3 with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. The effect up close is exactly what I was looking for. I'm not to sure if you can see the full effect in this picture.

A-4F_049.jpg

Hopefully, in the next day or two I'll be able to start the top base coats.

Joel

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That white turned out sweet Joel!

Dave

Dave,

Thanks for stopping by and having a look. I'm kind of concerned about the "whiteness" of the white on the top side flying surfaces. Will certainly know the final result after I put on the 1st layer of FS36440 Light Gull Gray.

Joel

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Thanks for stopping by and having a look. I'm kind of concerned about the "whiteness" of the white on the top side flying surfaces.

Hello Joel! It seems like you are really "moving along" with this build! (I know I say this a lot in my posts to you but, it's true!) I am just impressed with how quickly you work on these builds. It looks great! I thought maybe I could suggest adding a couple drops of tan/yellow (something like Tamiya XF-59 Desert yellow) or rather an earth tone to your white mix if you feel the white will be too intense. This might aid in giving you what I would call a "sun bleached" appearance but, use the tan sparingly to "cut" the intensity of the white. Looking forward to more!

-Mark

Edited by taggor
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M

Hello Joel! It seems like you are really "moving along" with this build! (I know I say this a lot in my posts to you but, it's true!) I am just impressed with how quickly you work on these builds. It looks great! I thought maybe I could suggest adding a couple drops of tan/yellow (something like Tamiya XF-59 Desert yellow) or rather an earth tone to your white mix if you feel the white will be too intense. This might aid in giving you what I would call a "sun bleached" appearance but, use the tan sparingly to "cut" the intensity of the white. Looking forward to more!

-Mark

Mark,

I'll most likely go with a drop or so of earth if it looks too intense once I paint the upper light gull gray on. Right now I have a bigger issue. I can't find the long refueling probe. I've looked everywhere and it's not to be found.

Joel

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M

Mark,

I'll most likely go with a drop or so of earth if it looks too intense once I paint the upper light gull gray on. Right now I have a bigger issue. I can't find the long refueling probe. I've looked everywhere and it's not to be found.

Joel

Spruebrothers has Quickboost's curved and straight refueling probes for the A-4 (in 1/48) in stock at the moment. Hope you find it! I have similar problems from time to time and it drives me nuts! I "feel" your anxiety.

-Mark

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Dang Joel! Sorry bout the probe....

As far as the white.... U have some pretty good tonal difference going on already... I bet after a good wash,and some streaks, It will tone down nicely.... Remember, The VA-22 bird was on a carrier for most of the time and it wouldn't get that trashed....

Dave

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Spruebrothers has Quickboost's curved and straight refueling probes for the A-4 (in 1/48) in stock at the moment. Hope you find it! I have similar problems from time to time and it drives me nuts! I "feel" your anxiety.

-Mark

Mark,

Thanks for that info. I had no idea that Quickboost made refueling probes for the A-4. Not really sure why they would want to as the kit ones are rather nice. I have two ARC members who have already offered me spares. So hopefully there will be no need to head on over to SB for the Quickboost ones. Although, I'm kind of curious as to what they do look like.

As for the white bottom, I'm kind of happy with how the shading looks before weathering. And after the base Lite Gull Gray was applied yesterday, the white flying surfaces are anything but shinny white. So I'm on the right track. Will be doing my paint modulation of the LGG later today following Jorge's modulation method, which is the opposite of mine. I already tried going a few shades lighter, and you just can't see a difference in any pictures. Jorge's work speaks for itself, so any issues would how I applied the paint, not his methods.

Joel

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Well, I've finished with the painting stage.

I painted the top of the Scooter with Tamiya XF-20 Med Gray and XF-2 White 12:1. Then thinned it 2:3 with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. All the upper flying surfaces that were previously painted Flat White were masked off.

A-4F_057.jpg

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Next I applied a random blotchy pattern of XF-20 and XF-1 Flat Black mixed 6:1. I thinned this out also 6:1 with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner.

A-4F_062.jpg

Some further blending will be done with washes when I start the weathering process.

Next up I had to paint the black nose. Masking tape just wouldn't lay down smoothly or in the direction I needed. So I drilled a hole in plastic sheet, then filed it till it fit the nose.

A-4F_064.jpg

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Then I masked off the wings where the slats are, and the intakes caps that I've left off till now and painted them with XF-7 Flat Red. Masking them this way is a no brainer. One dry, I glued them in place.

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I'll give the paint a full day to cure, then I'll rub it out with 12,000, then start the gloss coats to get ready for decaling the Scooter.

Joel

Edited by Joel_W
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Looking Great Joel! Paint work looks good! Like the trick with the radome mask... I actually masked mine! What a pain! I considered re doing it, but I kinda like how it looks

Almost decal time for ya! The best part!

Dave

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Looking Great Joel! Paint work looks good! Like the trick with the radome mask... I actually masked mine! What a pain! I considered re doing it, but I kinda like how it looks

Almost decal time for ya! The best part!

Dave

Dave,

Thanks for taking the time to checkout my Scooter. Masking the nose must have been a nightmare. I tried with all kind of curved pieces of tape, but always got wrinkles that I was concerned about. The mask took a good 1/2 hour from start to finish. I saved it for future use. Just not sure what that may ever be.

Going to gloss the Scooter today with Pledge. Then it's decal time. Of course I'll finally have to decide on one of two paint schemes.

Joel

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Looking forward to see the results of your weathering technique, Joel. I might have to incorporate it into my current Skyhawk build; those overall grey navy schemes and the splotchy weathering seem difficult to pull off convincingly, but yours looks promising

Thanks for stopping by, and having a look. Next up is to gloss coats of Pledge, then it's decal time. Another coat of Pledge, and then it's time for the weathering fun to begin.

Joel

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Decided to start the decaling process even though I haven't finished the two drop tanks nor even started the landing gear. So I needed to finally decide on what aircraft I would be replicating. I decided on the A-4F sn.#155018 from VA-164 "Ghostriders" onboard the USS. Hancock, circa 1971, since I'm friends with a Jessica on another modeling board, it was kind of a no brainer. I'm planning on doing the decaling over 4 work sessions: Port side, starboard side, bottom, and stencils. I finished up one side minus the stencils, and thought I'd give you guys a sneak peak.

Joel

A-4F_072.jpg

Edited by Joel_W
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Falcon20driver & Dave,

Thanks for stopping by and having a look at the basic decaling scheme. Like I said, it was a no brainer when a modeling friend is named Jessica. I really do like the scheme. I will also have to admit, that since I didn't choose a scheme earlier, with many of them, I needed to do some detail air brushing on the rudder as it would have been impossible (at least for me) to get decals to laydown smoothly around the raised ribs on the rudder, and in one case paint the top of the rudder Yellow.

Joel

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