Another 1/32 Lunar Module

[crackerjazz]

Hi, I'm joining the bandwagon. Here's another 1/32 LM. It will also help me visualize some stuff for the 1/10. The 3D parts are beautiful (thanks, Vincent!)

:) The stuff is incredibly light but sturdy. The grow lines I don't really mind as everything will be covered with cladding. I don't intend to do any interior

but I want to match it with a CSM down the line.

I used tissue foil as it seems paintable and is not as malleable as kitchen foil. There's also a certain springiness to it that I like. It's gold right now but I've

got the Humbrol 40 ready.

[crackerjazz]

[K2Pete]

So-o-o ... this is what you've been up to.

I have been thinking lately of building Mr Meen's LM ... and this looks super crackerjazz!

The photo showing the grow lines is very nice, thanx! But what have you done to it so far ... drilled the holes for the Rendezvous window? Drilled the holes for the Omni antenna? Clean up anything? I will assume, judging by the pix, that the fit is almost flawless.

Are you gonna build the Descent Stage too? ... and one more question ... what is Tissue foil? By it's springy-ness is it like from a potato chip bag?

Pete

[Hotdog]

WOW...this is gonna be great!!! The foil looks perfect!

[Lunokhod 2]

Glad to see another 1/32 LM. Can't wait to see your progress.

[crackerjazz]

Hi Vincent, thanks! I hope I'm able to do it justice :)/> Hi Hotdog, Pete, thanks, guys! Yeah, the tissue foil looks promising. I got it from Michaels at the gift

wrap section and it's extremely thin. To stick the panels onto the surface I cut narrow strips of the double-sided tape (the thin kind) and place them on the back along

the edge where the rivets are. Once in position, when you try to create wavy patterns on it and push down on the hills they won't flatten down or crease easily like

kitchen foil would. If I'm not happy with the waves and want to change the pattern I just kind of stretch it sideways where required. The material lends itself

well to making rivets using a pin as it doesn't tear or puncture easily. Like foil, though, any speck on the cutting mat can telegraph onto the foil's surface which

can be difficult to undo so I keep the mat clean when cutting/rivetting. For a flatter surface Ive tried using spray adhesive on the whole panel. But I refrain from

doing that because it ends up looking like the usual panel stuck onto a solid wall rather than cladding stretched over a wireframe.

Parts fit is excellent. I haven't had to drill out any holes as of yet. I did have to shave off the location markers for all the vents before applying the foil as

I wanted a really clean flat surface. I hope I don't regret that later on.

And, yeah, budget permitting, I'd like to get parts for the descent stage. I've got almost all of the parts for the ascent stage except the drogue (which I won't need

as I intend to display it docked with the CSM) and the bells. Vincent has excellent patterns for scratching the crucible - that'll save a lot on cost 'cause I'm broke

already, heheh. I know I've told my wife that "It's the last expensive model kit I'll ever buy" too many times but how can one resist a 1/32 LM. Vincent just did such a

great job with the 3D work.

I'm amazed at the FUD parts. These can be fragile and I've broken a few already. I've now learned to handle them with care.

It was nice to see a familiar face.

The 1/32 looks diminutive side-by-side with its 1/10 sibling. But it's actually a nice size to sit on your desk. The ascent stage is about the size of an SLR camera.

[ApolloMan]

I like what you are doing with the foil, I will give it a go on my 1/48 LM build. I had built the 3D printer model astronaut and found it difficult to paint because of the ruff surface. What is your plan for painting?

[Hotdog]

To smooth out the ruff WSF 3D printed material, I found this magical product:

XTC-3D

Get the cheaper 24oz kit. You only need a very tiny amount, a very thin coat, to smooth the surface of a 3D-printed model.

[crackerjazz]

That's the stuff you need, ApolloMan -- thanks Hotdog. I might get a bottle myself.

As for the colors -- for the greenish-beige areas I've got some Humbrol 40 left over from a Tomcat build. I want to get the color right but don't feel that brave mixing in some green so I'll shoot

it straight. My only problem is fumes (have to go to the garage to spray - danger of dust collecting on the gloss enamel paint) so I might try some of the acrylic equivalents so I could paint

indoors. Acrylic might be better on tissue foil, too.

Humbrol 40 - Enamel - Gloss Pale Gray

Model Master 1729 (FS 16440) - Acrylic - Gloss Gull Grey

Model Master 4763 (FS 36440) - Acrylic - Flat Gull Grey

Mr. Hobby Aqueous - H315 (FS16440) - Acrylic - Gloss Gray

Mr. Color - C315 (FS16440) - Lacquer - Gloss Gray

[ApolloMan]

Thanks Hotdog and Crackerjazz :thumbsup:/> I'll look for that stuff, hope Australia has it. My LM build will start at the end of the year once I move from Darwin to Melbourne. I will be watching both LM builds with great anticipation. :cheers:/>

Edited September 1, 2015 by ApolloMan

[Hotdog]

I think you have to order it online. I haven't seen it in any stores

[johnlove_mk_II]

Wow! The 1/10 build is a lot bigger than I was thinking.

This kinda makes me what to pull my build back out and get back to work.

[crackerjazz]

Hi John, I'd love to see your progress! Please do get back on it soon :)

As for me I'm still paneling -- I thought it would be fun :wacko: When I'm lucky I get to finish just 2 panels in an hour. Oftentimes I have to repeat because

of accidents like not getting shape right after cutting, or creating unwanted dimples or creases.

I noticed, too, that once I've marked off the rivets from the back and started taping some rivets would flatten down.

I try to keep from touching the rivets but sometimes you have to run your fingers along the sides of the panel and squish the rivets. They're still visible but I want

them to keep looking like round rivet heads so what I do now is mark the rivets with the pin, fill up the dimples with bondo, then let them dry a bit before putting

on the double sided tape. It's more laborious but it makes for more solid rivet heads.

[crackerjazz]

I swung by the electronics hobby shop for some kapton rolls.

By the way, one major mistake I just realized was that I've glued the front section solid and even though I won't be putting in any cockpit details -- now I couldn't

reach the windows easily from the back. I tried pulling the pieces apart but no dice. That LePage ultra gel control is doing its job too well. I hope to figure

out something before I start working on the window parts.

[johnlove_mk_II]

Interesting approach on the rivets. I can’t wait to see what they look like painted.

Yeah, I’ve kinda jumped back in with both feet, so to say. I ordered the main parts for the ascent stage over the weekend ... and as you know, that’s quite a lot of scratch. I'll be posting updates soon.

[Youngtiger1]

Pretty cool, I wish I could afford this kit but it's out of my budget at the moment. So, I'll indulge my appetite with your WIP

Mike

[crackerjazz]

Interesting approach on the rivets. I can’t wait to see what they look like painted.

That would be the real test. It's more plastic than foil so I think I should be ok but I'm keeping my fingers crossed. The chip bag I used for the 1/10 worked really well -- I used Humbrol enamel on that one and I tried to test it by flexing/creasing and the paint stayed on I'm really amazed. I want to use Model Master acrylic on this one just so I can paint indoors. I should really try it on a sample panel first but I wanted to surprise myself in the end -- just imagine if it doesn't work -- everyone will be laughing while I cry in a corner in a straightjacket.

Pretty cool, I wish I could afford this kit but it's out of my budget at the moment. So, I'll indulge my appetite with your WIP :thumbsup:/> Mike

Thanks Mike! Same here. I was brave to dive in like that but now I don't have the budget for the legs :( I'll definitely be ordering piecemeal from here on in -- which is what's good about this kit. I'm just relieved I've gotten most of the ascent stage parts, though, because I needed it for the 1/10 to have a clearer picture of how things go together. And because it will probably take me twenty-five years to scratchbuild one. This 1/32's a gem. The 1/10 may be huge and impressive-looking but it's unwieldy and difficult to photograph. The 1/32 you could easily turn in your hands and admire.

[crackerjazz]

More panels done. I think they're beginning to look like the fragile thermal blankets now.

[crackerjazz]

Wrinkles never looked so beautiful!

Adjusted the contrast to see the crumpling patterns better. How beautiful it would be to replicate every single undulation - alas, that would be for the insane.

The black inconel panels crumple differently, don't they? Almost like the way very fine paper does.

It's also interesting to see that some rivets have washers (if those are washers) and some don't.

Edited October 13, 2015 by crackerjazz

[K2Pete]

Adjusted the contrast to see the crumpling patterns better. How beautiful it would be to replicate every single undulation - alas, that would be for the insane.

The black inconel panels crumple differently, don't they? Almost like the way very fine paper does.

It's also interesting to see that some rivets have washers (if those are washers) and some don't.

Geez crackerjazz, at first glance I thought these pix were of your model and I was ... stunned.

As for the insanity of your project, I hafta tell ya that you've already demonstrated your insane attention to detail. And it's wonderful to watch! You are setting the bar very high ... yeah, thanx a lot for that! <_<

For different weights of foil, try the Thick Aluminum found in a Frozen Lasagna pan, or something like that. I've experimented with all kinds of materials on my models, like the Thick Aluminum, Grocery bags, Aluminum from a used printing Plate and the thin household stuff and they all work to replicate the wrinkles at the various scales.

I know you'll find something that'll be ... perr-r-rfect!

And ... I love those pix!

Pete

[crackerjazz]

Hi Pete, thanks! I do hope to find the right material. For some reason I keep remembering seeing such a material before but for the life of me I couldn't

recall where.

Had to smoothen this area a bit.

You wouldn't believe this. I tested the paint on a small sample. It held surpringly well. I tried flexing the tissue foil and the paint flexed with it. The only

problem is that it melted the gold dye and it bled right through the paint. So I had to scrub all the gold off from all the panels I've installed.

After some time I couldn't stand it anymore. I figured if there would be further problems it would be better to find out now. So I held my breath and gave all

the panels a shot of paint.

Think it has some potential?

[niart17]

POTENTIAL!!! This is looking awesome! I think the wrinkles are perfect. Keep up the great work. I am feeling a pull from this model calling to me to buy one. I blame you guys!

Bill

[johnlove_mk_II]

Looks great with the paint. That's Humbrol 40, correct?

I've been experimenting with the thin aluminum bowl tops, from Chipotle, for mine. They take the rivet details really well, but may be too thick for practical use … I’ll have to wait 'till my ascent stage parts get here to see how it looks.

[crackerjazz]

Hi Bill, thanks :) Yes Vincent did an amazing job bringing a 1/32 our way. I like the timing, too -- there's plenty of time before

the 50th. So come on in and join the fun! That way, too, at least there'll be more of us who'll be broke and it will ease the pain a

bit : ) Seriously, though, I'd considered getting the paper model to save a little (actually a lot) but was worried about the effects

of humidity on the model. And I'm terrible at paper modeling. And with this LM you know you have an original Vincent Meens-stamped

model.

Thanks, John! :) I used the Model Master acrylic equivalent -- 4763 Gull Gray which I'll gloss-coat later. I've used the Humbrol 40 on

some 1/10 paneling and the shade is the same (they've got the same FS number in a chart I've seen), but I wanted to be able to spray

indoors.

I wanted to get the windows done first so I started working on the docking window. These are all I'll ever build from the inside as far as internals (aside from some interlock to the CSM that I'll have to figure out somehow) so I wanted to get these done first. I engraved the hash marks as best I could on a piece of clear styrene.

I know I really didn't need to take a photo of this but I wanted to remember this blob.

It may not look perfect at this blown-up size but she does look pretty good at 1cm and as part of a bigger picture. And, most importantly, because it took me several

tries and the others are worse.

I see from the reference photos that the lower hash marks go progressively slanted on the LM-5 reticle. I'm not sure if this is the case with the other LM's, though.

I had made this before I remembered that Vincent already included such a part. I made use of mine anyway so as not to waste all that work. I'll probably use Vincent's part for a future build.

I've also attached the lower pane.

Aligning.....

I'll have to smoothen that side of the docking window.

One thing I noticed is that when you scribe onto clear styrene the edges are a bit rough compared to ordinary packaging plastic which I used on the 1/10. It's got

sentimental value now though -- I woke up early this morning to build it and we went through a lot together so I'm keeping it, warts and all, heheh.

Edited September 18, 2015 by crackerjazz

[crackerjazz]

Size compared to the 1/10 docking window.