new modeler need some help

[fredkao]

Hello,

I'm new here (I didn't find a place for presentation). I'm French but leave in Thailand for nearly 30 years now.

I'm coming back to scale models (I was playing this when I was in France). Anyway, I'm starting with a tank (char 2C from Meng). At that moment, everything is great.

But next I would like to build aircraft.

I ordered the Yak-1B from Eduard (limited edition) and the Vought F4U-1D Corsair w/ Moto-Tug (tamiya). I also ordered a few resin and etched parts for the corsair. I'm not really affraid about it. My only concern regard the etched parts (I never worked with that before).

I have a few questions regarding the F4U-1D:

I have read many review and many build tread about it. It seem that almost all modelers are going to aftermarket decals. What is wrong with tamiya decals? not enough version I suppose.

I really like the 2 tones colors corsair but I'm not sure if have this color with the F4U-1D. If you have any info, it will be great.

All I got is: the F4U-1D was assigned to the navy.

ok, that's all I think about at that time, waiting to get the war bird soon.

[jester292]

Hi! About the decals, most modelers think Tamiya decals (most manufacturers decals) are thick and difficult to work with. Aftermarket companies provide many more markings choices and are typically superior quality. Personally I've had good luck with Tamiya decals, but if the markings are not something you want from the box, then shop for an aftermarket set.

Aaron

[ajd3530]

If you have the -1D model, I don't believe any of those were the 2 tone scheme. I think all the -1D were 3 tone, and then later overall sea blue.

[fredkao]

Thank you for the decals explanation; great to know (30 years ago was a very different situation, no aftermarket, no microsol, no internet )

Anyway, I didn't see so many 3 tones but most of them are sea blue. I will do with it. Finally, with nice weathering, the sea blue isn't bad at all.

As I never build planes, I don't have any gloss paint, just only flat but I have the tamiya clear gloss, the other are the XF series (flat). So I think the X22 clear will be ok to spray after the sea blue coat?

Personally, I don't like gloss paint, so I never used them. If I spray the clear coat then I want use oil paint for the start of weathering, is it possible? Oil paint are good on flat base but I don't know with gloss base coat.

Thank you for help.

[LanceB]

The "trick" to Tamiya (or Hasegawa) decals is to use HOT water. I boil some water, pour it into a thermos, and then pour from that into a small tray to wet the decals. Change the water frequently as it cools. If you can hold your finger in it without screaming, the water is not hot enough. Also apply a bit of that hot water to the area where you will place the decal. When in place "iron" it down with a cotton swab that has been dunked in the hot water.

I suppose if you had one of those electric warmers for a coffee cup you could use that to keep the water hot, put if it is the "spoon" type that you drop into the cup to heat, then don't let the decal touch it or you might burn it.

[fredkao]

The "trick" to Tamiya (or Hasegawa) decals is to use HOT water. I boil some water, pour it into a thermos, and then pour from that into a small tray to wet the decals. Change the water frequently as it cools. If you can hold your finger in it without screaming, the water is not hot enough. Also apply a bit of that hot water to the area where you will place the decal. When in place "iron" it down with a cotton swab that has been dunked in the hot water.

I suppose if you had one of those electric warmers for a coffee cup you could use that to keep the water hot, put if it is the "spoon" type that you drop into the cup to heat, then don't let the decal touch it or you might burn it.

Whoa, great info. Thank you very much.

Beside this, I can have Mr Mark softer and setter, but I have read that the decal softer is diluted vinegar (or acetic acid) that can be much more cheaper. Any info on this?

[Jennings]

F4U-1As were in a *three* tone camouflage. All -1Ds (with the possible exception of the first few) left the factory in overall Glossy Sea Blue.

[Ro-Gar Hobbies]

Photo etch is not really hard to work with, just some of the smaller pieces can be difficult to handle. And depending how the parts need to be folded, if you don't have a folding jig, you then have to get creative on how to use tools to get the job done.

Go to You Tube and search "HOW TO WORK WITH PHOTO ETCH" and you will find several links to very good videos on the subject.

Robert

[CorsairMan]

The "trick" to Tamiya (or Hasegawa) decals is to use HOT water. I boil some water, pour it into a thermos, and then pour from that into a small tray to wet the decals. Change the water frequently as it cools. If you can hold your finger in it without screaming, the water is not hot enough. Also apply a bit of that hot water to the area where you will place the decal. When in place "iron" it down with a cotton swab that has been dunked in the hot water.

I suppose if you had one of those electric warmers for a coffee cup you could use that to keep the water hot, put if it is the "spoon" type that you drop into the cup to heat, then don't let the decal touch it or you might burn it.

I completely agree with this!

F4U-1As were in a *three* tone camouflage. All -1Ds (with the possible exception of the first few) left the factory in overall Glossy Sea Blue.

This is my understanding too

Photo etch is not really hard to work with, just some of the smaller pieces can be difficult to handle. And depending how the parts need to be folded, if you don't have a folding jig, you then have to get creative on how to use tools to get the job done.

And you should consider different types of CA glue - some parts will work better with the thinner variety and some should be used with the thicker CA. Simple folding can be done with 2 razor blades but complex foldings (like a box or similar multi-sided object) a tool will really help you. Then again - I have been able to make very nice folds using scalpels and a straight edge.

The Tamiya -1D corsair is about as easy a build as you can get. The only tricky part is the wing join. If you follow the instructions for straight wings there is a good chance you might get a step or other alignment issue at the wing fold. To avoid this you can glue the wing tops together, glue the wing bottoms together (with the reinforcement spar), and then join the full tops to the bottoms. I found this to be much better.

[Steve N]

I built the Tamiya 1/72 Mosquito a few year ago and used the kit decals, with no trouble at all. Printing and registration were fine, and they laid down nicely.

SN

[The Keeper]

but I have read that the decal softer is diluted vinegar (or acetic acid) that can be much more cheaper. Any info on this?

The "Setting" solution in most decal systems is well filtered acetic acid. The "Solvent" or "Softer" solution is some obscure alcohol mix. The original directions from Microscale are to put a layer of "Set" down on the horizontal surface of your model, lay on your decal, wait one hour, then drop the "Solvent" mixture on top, watch it wrinkle and DON'T TOUCH come back later when it's laid down. Lot's of people have developed techniques that are different that work for them, so you're welcome to experiment.

hth