Any good base for Alclad, other than acrylic?

[Dmanton300]

I would imagine it's because lacquers don't cure, they just dry , so an overcoat of something solvent based will eat into the lacquer and affect the finish. And enamel DOES cure in the real sense, so will be impervious to a solvent based overcoat (at least long enough for the solvent to flash off). Does that make sense?

Jim, that article is simply sublime. I've been as guilty as anyone of having the right idea but getting my nomenclature mixed up over the years, so that article was like a ray of light. Also, the difference between drying and curing - makes total sense, and explains why I LOVE spraying Lacquers, but they are incredibly difficult to brush. So thank you!

[AX 365]

FWIW, I uses Model Master Enamels exclusively as a base for Alclad. I use different colours depending on the finish I want. I once used Alclad directly over Future brushed onto the model without any paint base coat. It turned out nicely.

Aluminum over Model Master Light Grey

Aluminum over Model Master Flat Black

Aluminum over Model Master Gloss Black

Aluminum over Future with no paint base coat

The Future trick was okay but I much prefer the finish with a painted base coat and for me, it's enamels.

Mike

[chuck540z3]

If I recall correctly, you're using Krylon Fusion, right?

Easy: because it's enamel. Krylon changed their formula about seven years ago, so now virtually all their paints are enamels. Fusion, Dual and Colormaster are all enamel sprays.

Simple way to tell if your spray paint is enamel: if the label says something along the lines of 'recoat within 1 hour or after 24 (or 48) hours', it's an enamel. Lacquers don't have a window for re-coating, because they cure differently.

Thanks. And here I've been calling it a lacquer for years!

[jinmmydel]

Krylon Fusion is an enamel. That doesn't change anything. There's no reason for the undercoat to HAVE to be enamel. Alclad is lacquer. Try spraying a lacquer like Mr. Color over Model Master enamel. The enamel will melt if it's not fully cured...something that takes WEEKS. Lacquer is much more impervious to being sprayed over with more lacquer.

Believe whatever you want and do it however you want though.

[MoFo]

The High Shine Alclad colours are alcohol-based, not cellulose based.

The fact that an entirely separate paint with a completely different formulation may have compatibility issues has absolutely nothing to do with the way Alclad paints perform.

Again, it's pretty simple:

If you are a novice Alclad user, or having difficulty with the paint, follow the manufacturer's instructions. They have formulated and tested the paint; they have a decent idea of the way it works.

And no, the manufacturer's instructions aren't just some way to con you into buying a special primer. I can't believe that actually needs to be said (particularly when the manufacturer itself explicitly states that you don't have to use their own primer), but such is the world we live in today...

Edited September 22, 2015 by MoFo

[Fly-n-hi]

Why wouldn't you just use their own Alclad II Gloss Black Base? I use it and it works great.

Its almost too simple I guess?

Edited September 22, 2015 by Fly-n-hi

[jinmmydel]

Why wouldn't you just use their own Alclad II Gloss Black Base? I use it and it works great.

Its almost too simple I guess?

Because...as I said above...there was a period where they were producing bad batches that never cured. When you would spray the Alclad over it it would melt...ask my Tamiya P-51 about it...oh you can't..I had to throw $150 worth of kit and AM and a couple hundred hours work in the trash.

Alclad has owned up to the bad batch thing..and they will replace bad bottles. However, I've bought two other bottles since that had the same problem. I'm not risking hours of work using it ever again. YMMV.

[Fly-n-hi]

Because...as I said above...there was a period where they were producing bad batches that never cured. When you would spray the Alclad over it it would melt...ask my Tamiya P-51 about it...oh you can't..I had to throw $150 worth of kit and AM and a couple hundred hours work in the trash.

Alclad has owned up to the bad batch thing..and they will replace bad bottles. However, I've bought two other bottles since that had the same problem. I'm not risking hours of work using it ever again. YMMV.

I understand and can see why you'd be reluctant. But the problem with the two bottles that you bought afterwards was that they were most likely from the same bad batch as the first bottle. I'd bet my next paycheck that those two "new" bottles were probably sitting on the shelf at the store (or wherever you bought them) for a long time.

If you've made up your mind about it that's cool but I'd give it one more try with a bottle that you know is new. I use it and the results are fantastic.

[durangokid]

I don't claim to know everything but I'll tell you what has and hasn't worked for me. I used decanted Krylon and it has worked very well. I did however, spray it on too thick and crazed the plastic (completely my fault). I started using Mr Color gloss black because I don't like decanting especially for small parts. It has worked great too and I don't notice any difference from the Krylon. I did try the Alclad gloss black a few times and it worked nice but it would lift with the slightest touch. I did try the future thing and it worked great too but I still have trouble trying to get a good smooth finish with it.

I want to try Alclad's black micro filler/primer since I recently tried their gray stuff and it went on like butter. I was worried about using it after the black base fiasco but a buddy raved about it so I gave it a shot, I'm glad I did.

I use Mr color since I can't see the difference myself and it's a lot easier for me than decanting Krylon.

Hope that helps you a bit.

Bryan