f4h1phantom Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 I hate acrylics and don't trust them, even less so if I have to apply another coat of paint on top of them! Why not an enamel base, which in my opinion should be a lot stronger? What's the catch with this product? TIA, Jorge. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neo Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 The best base for alclad is Krylon black for plastic, decanted and airbrushed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew D. the Jolly Rogers guy Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 And, I've done just fine with regular Testors gloss black airbrushed, just have to wait more than a day before applying the Alclad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tobiK Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 I had Humbrol gloss black. Also went fine, but need its time for drying. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Mr. Color gloss black (#2 IIRC) does a great job. I've written this before, but I find the Mr Color gloss paints go on stunningly well, is a quite thin, and dries very quickly. I used Alclad's gloss black once, but it literally took days to dry, let alone cure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LVZ2881 Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 I just had alclad applied over Tamiya gloss black with no issues Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonbryon Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 In the past I've used Humbrol Gloss Black enamel and Mr Surfacer 1000 with success. Jon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barneydhc82 Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 I've been using Tamiya TS-14 Gloss Black in the rattle can decanted and airbrushed and the result have been great. Barney Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bigasshammm Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 I use model master gloss black lacquer. Best gloss black I've used. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MoFo Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 REGULAR ALCLAD PAINTS Apply one of these primers before using Regular ALCLAD paints: Alclad ALC-302 GREY PRIMER Alclad ALC-306 WHITE PRIMER & MICROFILLER Alclad ALC-309 BLACK PRIMER & MICROFILLER Tamiya or Gunze Sangyo plastic primers Auto Primer-white or grey HIGH SHINE ALCLAD PAINTS (POLISHED ALUMINIUM, CHROME FOR PLASTIC, POLISHED BRASS, CHROME FOR LEXAN, STAINLESS STEEL, GOLD TITANIUM, AIRFRAME ALUMINIUM, MIRRORED GOLD FOR LEXAN) Apply one of these primers before using High Shine ALCLAD paints: ALCLAD GLOSS BLACK BASE ALC-304/305 ALCLAD CLEAR BASE ALC-303 (Other hobby enamel paints are suitable-it is advisable to conduct a test on scrap plastic) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Go ahead and beat your head against the wall, and decant all the paints you want, but the best and easiest base for Alclad is Tamiya TS-14 and Fine Primer, sprayed straight from the can. I painted this model the same day as the base paints were sprayed. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
f4h1phantom Posted September 15, 2015 Author Share Posted September 15, 2015 (edited) Many thanks for all the replies gentlemen! Closer to giving the stuff a try now. Curt, that's a fantastic looking B-36! Jorge. Edited September 15, 2015 by f4h1phantom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 For Alcad base I've been using their Gloss Black Base air brushed straight from the bottle. The instructions say it's a Mineral Spirit base for clean up. Dries quickly, and I can rub it out if I need too. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Curt, I've heard from others about using Tamiya Spray cans for Alcad bases, but my concern is how to do you get the paint into small, tight areas without applying too much paint to the surrounding areas? That's why I've always used my AB for base coats. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
balls47 Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Curt, I've heard from others about using Tamiya Spray cans for Alcad bases, but my concern is how to do you get the paint into small, tight areas without applying too much paint to the surrounding areas? That's why I've always used my AB for base coats. Joel I'll back up Neo and tell you to try Krylon gloss black. It's always worked for me. Good Luck!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MoFo Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 I've heard from others about using Tamiya Spray cans for Alcad bases, but my concern is how to do you get the paint into small, tight areas without applying too much paint to the surrounding areas? That's why I've always used my AB for base coats. Decant. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Decant. Decanting just gives me a lacquer gloss black. I can get that already in a bottle without having to go through all the decanting process which is a pain in the butt. The whole point of using a rattle can is so that you don't need to use an Air Brush to apply the base coat. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
slayermk1 Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 I've heard some use Future as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Curt, I've heard from others about using Tamiya Spray cans for Alcad bases, but my concern is how to do you get the paint into small, tight areas without applying too much paint to the surrounding areas? That's why I've always used my AB for base coats. Joel Tamiya goes on very thin, so careful spraying into the tight areas 1st then hit the overall large areas. I was wary of using any kind of spray can,I like to have as little paint on my models as possible,Tamiya spray is one of the best on the market. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 I've heard some use Future as well. As touchy as Future is to airbrush, I wouldn't try it, any graininess, or the dreaded runs will telegraph through. Also it's recommended to have a black base under any "shiny" Alclad color. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jinmmydel Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 If you need a gloss black base for the high shine varieties I'd recommend Mr. Color. I've also used decanted Krylon which gives about the smoothest finish I've ever got from anything out of an airbrush. However, it's just easier to not decant. I will warn you about Alclad's own black base though. It's fairly well known that there were bad batches that would never actually dry/cure. I used on of these bad bottles on a Tamiya Mustang and it ruined the model when I sprayed Alclad over it. The claim is the bad bottles are no more, but I've tested 3 bottles now that won't/don't cure. So I will never trust it again. Just a heads up...perhaps the problem really is fixed, but I'd be remiss not to share. Also, I have an article upcoming in an issue of Model Aircraft (likely November) covering doing NMF with Alclad that you may be interested in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MoFo Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 If you need a gloss black base for the high shine varieties I'd recommend Mr. Color. Sigh. HIGH SHINE ALCLAD PAINTS(POLISHED ALUMINIUM, CHROME FOR PLASTIC, POLISHED BRASS, CHROME FOR LEXAN, STAINLESS STEEL, GOLD TITANIUM, AIRFRAME ALUMINIUM, MIRRORED GOLD FOR LEXAN) <snip> (Other hobby enamel paints are suitable-it is advisable to conduct a test on scrap plastic) Mr. Color is not an enamel. The high shine paints (and ONLY the high shine paints) require an enamel undercoat. Black is recommended for best results, but other colours can be used to achieve the desired effect. Seriously guys, it's not that hard: Use a smooth, preferably lacquer (or acrylic lacquer), primer of your choice for the regular metallic shades; use a gloss enamel for the high shine paints. Using a gloss enamel will not turn the regular metallic shades into high shine paints; using a regular lacquer or acrylic-based lacquer will lead to adhesion problems with the high shine paints. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jinmmydel Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 It absolutely DOES NOT HAVE to be enamel. Not remotely. There is no reason whatsoever why you'd need enamel, so if you can give me some reason why...other than referring to their website (which I suspect only says enamel because their horrible black base is enamel) then I'd welcome it. But do note I know a wee bit about paint chemistry: http://jimsmodels.com/a-bit-about-paint-chemistry/ Mr. Color gloss black: More of this one can be seen in an upcoming NMF article in Model Aircraft. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chuck540z3 Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) Mr. Color is not an enamel. The high shine paints (and ONLY the high shine paints) require an enamel undercoat. Seriously guys, it's not that hard: ...... use a gloss enamel for the high shine paints. Why is that Mike? ie: Why do high shine Alclads need an enamel rather than a lacquer primer base coat? Case in point- Krylon gloss black lacquer followed by Alclad Bright Aluminum. Edited September 17, 2015 by chuck540z3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MoFo Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 If I recall correctly, you're using Krylon Fusion, right? Easy: because it's enamel. Krylon changed their formula about seven years ago, so now virtually all their paints are enamels. Fusion, Dual and Colormaster are all enamel sprays. Simple way to tell if your spray paint is enamel: if the label says something along the lines of 'recoat within 1 hour or after 24 (or 48) hours', it's an enamel. Lacquers don't have a window for re-coating, because they cure differently. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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