Joel_W Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Janne, I really like your procedure for opening up those cowl flaps, and yet adding support for the front of the wing section. The cockpit is really looking quite good. Just a heads up on colors at the start of the war. Curtiss Cockpit Green which was an approximation of Interior Green, was made locally as many aircraft companies did at the start of the war, was a little browner than the standard Interior Green color, but with weathering the base shade really isn't that important. I'm not sure if the inside of the flaps were Interior green or Yellow Zinc Chromate, which has a slight greenish tint to it. Interior Green was made by mixing Black with Zinc Chromate so it was much darker. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Janne, I really like your procedure for opening up those cowl flaps, and yet adding support for the front of the wing section. The cockpit is really looking quite good. Just a heads up on colors at the start of the war. Curtiss Cockpit Green which was an approximation of Interior Green, was made locally as many aircraft companies did at the start of the war, was a little browner than the standard Interior Green color, but with weathering the base shade really isn't that important. I'm not sure if the inside of the flaps were Interior green or Yellow Zinc Chromate, which has a slight greenish tint to it. Interior Green was made by mixing Black with Zinc Chromate so it was much darker. Joel Thanx Joel :) The few refs shots I've seen in color showed somehing closer to interior green rather than zinc chromate, same for tbe shutters and wheel bays. However I think those were taken of museum birds so I'm not 100% sure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Thanx Joel :)/> The few refs shots I've seen in color showed somehing closer to interior green rather than zinc chromate, same for tbe shutters and wheel bays. However I think those were taken of museum birds so I'm not 100% sure. Janne, I really know what you mean about restoration photos. More seam to be wrong then right, and you think that it would be the other way around as they have all the same resources we do plus most likely more. The PV-1 Ventura has been an adventure with colors for sure. The wheel well tanks in most builds have them as either Red, or Aluminum, yet the few pictures I've found of a restored PV-1 has them as GZC just like the rest of the wheel well. Finding accurate color information seems to have become one of the hardest parts of a build for WW11 modelers. I'm not even sure what color those open P-40B wheels wells really were. In any event, with your weathering technique will produce really quite accurate colors in the cockpit, and inside of the split flaps. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Janne, I really know what you mean about restoration photos. More seam to be wrong then right, and you think that it would be the other way around as they have all the same resources we do plus most likely more. The PV-1 Ventura has been an adventure with colors for sure. The wheel well tanks in most builds have them as either Red, or Aluminum, yet the few pictures I've found of a restored PV-1 has them as GZC just like the rest of the wheel well. Finding accurate color information seems to have become one of the hardest parts of a build for WW11 modelers. I'm not even sure what color those open P-40B wheels wells really were. In any event, with your weathering technique will produce really quite accurate colors in the cockpit, and inside of the split flaps. Joel That remains to be seen :P I know as much about props as a mosquito in Taj Mahal knows about Detroit (Go Redwings!) But I try :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Janne, Hockey season has started as yet here. The Baseball post season starts Tuesday, and it's only the 4th week of the NFL season. Go Rangers :touche:/> just don't read the Airfix P-40B thread going on right now, or you might not want to continue with your build. :deadhorse1:/> Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Janne, Hockey season has started as yet here. The Baseball post season starts Tuesday, and it's only the 4th week of the NFL season. Go Rangers :touche:/>/> just don't read the Airfix P-40B thread going on right now, or you might not want to continue with your build. :deadhorse1:/>/> Joel Oh my, that was a venomous thread...... kind of entertaining tho :P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Janne, Just reread my post and it should have been "hasn't started as yet". And I actually proof read my posts. Go figure. Yeah, it did get down and kind of dirty. I never post in rivet counter threads, especially this one as this isn't even a close to final CAD image. Personally, I'm thrilled to be getting a state of the art P-40B. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Banana11000 Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Lookin' Good! Love what you're doing with the cowl flaps! Cheers, Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 Lookin' Good! Love what you're doing with the cowl flaps! Cheers, Colin Thanx Colin :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted October 13, 2015 Author Share Posted October 13, 2015 Again only small update :D I can only blame a nasty cold that the whole family got hammered with....right now only the girls ar sick tho. ANyways... I put a big fat blob of putty on the belly extension to sand into shape later. Added a bit of PE in the pit... Got the IP sorted...just needs a bit of detail painting and washes. I got some detail painting done in the pit and then I gloss coated in wait of washes :D Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Janne, The pit assembles look great, especially the IP. Why such a large blob of putty for the extension? It will just take longer to dry then a few lighter coats. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
K5054NZ Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 (edited) Here's a motivational image for you, Janne! This is Rod Lewis' Texas-based Tomahawk IIB, restored here in New Zealand and painted as a P-40C. I didn't take more photos as I was more excited by the Mosquito I was standing under! (you can see the Merlin exhausts at left) Keep up the great work, I look forward to your next progress report. Edited October 13, 2015 by K5054NZ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 Janne, The pit assembles look great, especially the IP. Why such a large blob of putty for the extension? It will just take longer to dry then a few lighter coats. Joel Thanx Joel :D I like having a bit of material to work with to getbghe smooth inward curve and I added extra to compensate for shrinkage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 Here's a motivational image for you, Janne! This is Rod Lewis' Texas-based Tomahawk IIB, restored here in New Zealand and painted as a P-40C. I didn't take more photos as I was more excited by the Mosquito I was standing under! (you can see the Merlin exhausts at left) Keep up the great work, I look forward to your next progress report. Thanx Zac :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 Howdy! Time for another small update...yeah I know the going is slow but that´s how it is sometimes :D I sanded the belly extension smooth and into shape... Primed it, and it looks good enough :D A quick dry fit....good, good. Then I tried MiG´s enamel wash, I´ve always made my own washes from artist oils and turpentine but I got this in a set so I wanted to try it. Conclusion, sure it´s alright...but for half the cost of a tube of really good artis oil I don´t think it´s worth it. I´ll continue with my artist oil mixtures. That´s all folks! Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
taggor Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Janne it's coming along nicely! You sure don't have to tell me about slow progress however, most of my slow progress stems from goofs with glue, putty, etc. Oh.... and the fact that I am not around very much these days to work on my project! I am really inspired to work on my own Tomahawk with your build. I have seen/heard of many builders using MIG products. Sorry to hear it didn't turn out the way you wanted but, I think it looks good! What does the oil paint offer you (for you personally) that you found lacking in the MIG product? Just curious. Looking forward to the next step in your progress. -Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 Janne it's coming along nicely! You sure don't have to tell me about slow progress however, most of my slow progress stems from goofs with glue, putty, etc. Oh.... and the fact that I am not around very much these days to work on my project! I am really inspired to work on my own Tomahawk with your build. I have seen/heard of many builders using MIG products. Sorry to hear it didn't turn out the way you wanted but, I think it looks good! What does the oil paint offer you (for you personally) that you found lacking in the MIG product? Just curious. Looking forward to the next step in your progress. -Mark Thanx Mark :D Well the obvious advantage is that with artist oils you can mix your own hues of wash, for example I never use a entirely black wash but mix black with raw umber or burnt sienna to get washes with less stark contrasts. The other advantage is the smell, using odorless turpentine instead of white spirit does wonders for the atmosphere.... And thirdly it's the price...really good artist oils like Winsor & Newton might cost more but on the other hand they last pretty much eternally; ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Thanx Mark :D/> Well the obvious advantage is that with artist oils you can mix your own hues of wash, for example I never use a entirely black wash but mix black with raw umber or burnt sienna to get washes with less stark contrasts. The other advantage is the smell, using odorless turpentine instead of white spirit does wonders for the atmosphere.... And thirdly it's the price...really good artist oils like Winsor & Newton might cost more but on the other hand they last pretty much eternally; ) Janne, I've reached basically the same conclusion as you. Purchased washes, filters, etc. are much more expensive then what it costs you to make your own. What we're paying for is mostly a thinning agent. And as you've said, it's easy to mix your own to achieve whatever color one needs or wants. You can just as easily buy some lets say Tamiya bottles with those excellent sealing caps to store your washes in. I do use both Artist tube oils, but always allow them to leach the Linseed oil out, so that they will dry somewhat faster. I've been using Odorless Mineral Spirits, and for the life of me, I can't imagine how anyone could possibly call it "odorless". Will have to try Odorless Turps next. I also like to use Model Master Enamels to make washes, as it's easier then working with artist oils, and the color choices are nearly endless. The Belly extension turned out quite well. Looking forward to your next update. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 Janne, I've reached basically the same conclusion as you. Purchased washes, filters, etc. are much more expensive then what it costs you to make your own. What we're paying for is mostly a thinning agent. And as you've said, it's easy to mix your own to achieve whatever color one needs or wants. You can just as easily buy some lets say Tamiya bottles with those excellent sealing caps to store your washes in. I do use both Artist tube oils, but always allow them to leach the Linseed oil out, so that they will dry somewhat faster. I've been using Odorless Mineral Spirits, and for the life of me, I can't imagine how anyone could possibly call it "odorless". Will have to try Odorless Turps next. I also like to use Model Master Enamels to make washes, as it's easier then working with artist oils, and the color choices are nearly endless. The Belly extension turned out quite well. Looking forward to your next update. Joel Thanx Joel:D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
taggor Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Thanx Mark :D/> Well the obvious advantage is that with artist oils you can mix your own hues of wash, for example I never use a entirely black wash but mix black with raw umber or burnt sienna to get washes with less stark contrasts. The other advantage is the smell, using odorless turpentine instead of white spirit does wonders for the atmosphere.... And thirdly it's the price...really good artist oils like Winsor & Newton might cost more but on the other hand they last pretty much eternally; ) Janne, I've reached basically the same conclusion as you. Purchased washes, filters, etc. are much more expensive then what it costs you to make your own. What we're paying for is mostly a thinning agent. And as you've said, it's easy to mix your own to achieve whatever color one needs or wants. You can just as easily buy some lets say Tamiya bottles with those excellent sealing caps to store your washes in. I do use both Artist tube oils, but always allow them to leach the Linseed oil out, so that they will dry somewhat faster. I've been using Odorless Mineral Spirits, and for the life of me, I can't imagine how anyone could possibly call it "odorless". Will have to try Odorless Turps next. I also like to use Model Master Enamels to make washes, as it's easier then working with artist oils, and the color choices are nearly endless. The Belly extension turned out quite well. Looking forward to your next update. Joel All those attributes make a very sound cases for both oils and enamels. I am still collecting "tools" for my toolbox so, thank you both for the insight! -Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 Here we go... The Aires pit parts painted and weathered... The side consols. The IP. Rear bulkhead attached... And the consols glued in place....Can´t really say you get any help frm the Aires instruction on where to put things...trial and error! Here´s some error...I accidently sawed through the bottom of the seat pan! I cut out the entire damaged area... And glued in a piece of plasticard instead. After a bit of fiddling I got the floor and rear bulkhead in.....scratching my noggin a bit about how to get the IP into place... There, todays work :D Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BroadyM Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Not heard that expression in a while .................. great work so far. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 Not heard that expression in a while .................. great work so far. Thanx BroadyM :D What expression? "Scratching my noggin"? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) Janne, Now that's outstanding progress. I do have one question though. On the right side cockpit wall there is a map case. I'm pretty sure that some of it (the cover flap), is made from a fabric material, while the box itself was made from aluminum. I've seen pictures over the years where the case was painted a leather color to Interior green, all Flat Black, or just the flap in a leather color and the case itself IG. This issue usually comes up in all USAAF WW11 fighter builds, as restorations mostly get it wrong more then right. You always work from documentation, does it show it differently then you painted it? Nice save on the bottom of the seat. I've done to some degree what you did on more resin parts then I care to admit too. And even if I manage not to damage the part itself, sanding it flat and true is an issue of frustration for me. The twin PW engines on the PV-1 took hours to get close but not perfect. Joel Edited October 26, 2015 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 Janne, Now that's outstanding progress. I do have one question though. On the right side cockpit wall there is a map case. I'm pretty sure that some of it (the cover flap), is made from a fabric material, while the box itself was made from aluminum. I've seen pictures over the years where the case was painted a leather color to Interior green, all Flat Black, or just the flap in a leather color and the case itself IG. This issue usually comes up in all USAAF WW11 fighter builds, as restorations mostly get it wrong more then right. You always work from documentation, does it show it differently then you painted it? Nice save on the bottom of the seat. I've done to some degree what you did on more resin parts then I care to admit too. And even if I manage not to damage the part itself, sanding it flat and true is an issue of frustration for me. The twin PW engines on the PV-1 took hours to get close but not perfect. Joel Thanx Joel :D I've seen the map box in all of the above colors...so I decided to leave it as is and move on with my life :P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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