Flat Future?

[RedHeadKevin]

Future is a great gloss coat, but I'd love a product with a similar formula that could be used as a dull coat. Has anyone tried making flat Future, maybe by mixing in Tamiya flat base or a similar product?

Do you think SC Johnson or Pledge would respond favorably to a petition to make flat-finish Future for floors?

[Triarius]

Future is a great gloss coat, but I'd love a product with a similar formula that could be used as a dull coat. Has anyone tried making flat Future, maybe by mixing in Tamiya flat base or a similar product?

Do you think SC Johnson or Pledge would respond favorably to a petition to make flat-finish Future for floors?

Answer to first question: That's S.O.P. (Standard Operating Procedure.)

Answer to second question: No. I already asked. They were perplexed when I told them what it was for. :lol:/>

[jinmmydel]

I think flat Future would kinda defeat the purpose. I really don't see how anyone can stand spraying that stuff on a model. It's temperamental and never covers the same way twice. There are much better glosses out there in my opinion. However, I have seen people mix it with flat bases to create flat coats. Though, I'm sticking to Dullcoat for that.

[Triarius]

I think flat Future would kinda defeat the purpose. I really don't see how anyone can stand spraying that stuff on a model. It's temperamental and never covers the same way twice. There are much better glosses out there in my opinion. However, I have seen people mix it with flat bases to create flat coats. Though, I'm sticking to Dullcoat for that.

I must disagree. Like most coatings, Future is not a brainless application. Once I learned to use it, I never looked back. Rattle cans, like Dullcoat, are fine if you have a spray booth, or don't think toxicity matters that much, or just don't want to "learn a new technology." That last is a very valid reason. Rattle cans are fast, easy—and expensive. If they're worth it to you, fine. This is a hobby, it's supposed to be fun. (Who 'a' thunk it?:rolleyes:/>)

The beauty of Future, as far as I'm concerned, it that it can be applied equally well with a brush or an airbrush; you can get any degree of gloss you want using Tamiya Flat Base; it has very low toxicity, even when aerosolized (still recommend a spraybooth); and clean up is a snap, whether brushed or airbrushed. But there is a learning curve, just like with a new brand of acrylic paint.

Now do you see? :lol:/>

[jinmmydel]

Lolz...yeah. I just don't know what I'm doing. That's it.

BTW I've never once used an aerosol anything on a model...that's for people that don't know what they are doing. You can get bottled Dullcoat for airbrushing.

I suspect the high humidity and heat here in hell...err...Texas may have something to do with how how horrible Future is.

I tend to use Alclad Auqua gloss, but I've begun using this technique where you spray X-22 thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner on the model. Then you go back over it with straight Mr. Leveling thinner. It creates a glass like finish that Future could only dream of (At least out of my airbrush).

Glass. Like. Finish.

I talk more about gloss in an upcoming Model Aircraft article for the above 106. Check it out.

[Triarius]

Lolz...yeah. I just don't know what I'm doing. That's it.

BTW I've never once used an aerosol anything on a model...that's for people that don't know what they are doing. You can get bottled Dullcoat for airbrushing.

I suspect the high humidity and heat here in hell...err...Texas may have something to do with how how horrible Future is.

I tend to use Alclad Auqua gloss, but I've begun using this technique where you spray X-22 thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner on the model. Then you go back over it with straight Mr. Leveling thinner. It creates a glass like finish that Future could only dream of (At least out of my airbrush).

<snip>

Didn't know or remember that. Tells you how long it's been since I used Dullcoat.

And your suspicions about heat and humidity and Future are correct. In fact, that applies to any acrylic coating. Enamels are more tolerant, but even they can be surprisingly affected. I live next to an inland, freshwater sea. It's always humid, here, even in winter the outside humidity is high. Didn't get any air conditioning at all until about five years ago, so I learned how to use Future under conditions of high heat and high humidity from the start. That air conditioner was worth every penny!:yahoo:/>

That sounds and looks like a very interesting technique. Almost a "candy apple" finish. Car builders, take note.

[galileo1]

But again, when you start to use Mr. Leveling thinner you start to lean toward the lacquer side of things. We're no longer discussing "acrylic" issues. Just like when spraying Tamiya with their own lacquer thinner.

Triarious, can you please share how you spray your Future? I've always had issues with it.

Thanks!

Rob

[Aurora Mark]

I have found that here in Nova Scotia, cutting Future 10:2:1 of 10 parts Future, 2 parts distilled water and 1 part windex works great. I spray using a wide cone with my airbrush at 20-22 PSI. Once done I clean my airbrush with Windex.

To make it dull, I substitue 1 part of Future for 1 part of Tamiya dull. At 5:5 of future and dull though, I find that it then gets easier to just spray Tamiya dull in coats to get the same results.

I hope this helps.

Mark.

[Triarius]

Triarious, can you please share how you spray your Future? I've always had issues with it.

Thanks!

Rob

I spray Future slightly differently depending on conditions and its age. Older Future, especially if its been exposed to UV light and warm temperatures tends to loose solvent. In such a case, I spray as I would a fresh bottle on a test piece. If results are good, then that's all I do. As this is the last or next to last step on a completed model, taking the time to evaluate how older Future is behaving is worth it. If results are less than expected, I increase the pressure. If 25 psi isn't sufficient, I may dilute slightly with 90% isopropyl, never water or Windex. I don't use Windex as a reducing (viscosity) solvent because of the ammonia. Coatings are complex enough without adding another variable.

Normal procedure is to spray it straight from the bottle, gravity fed airbrush, ~20 psi. I never use a retarder or flow aid except under very warm or dry conditions (~78°F, RH 70+%). See also below for matte coats. The thing here, as with all airbrushing, is practice and experience. You want the thickest coats you can get without runs for a gloss surface. Unlike some others, layering thin coats of Future has never worked for me, though it does for them. Go figure. YMMV.

Distance is critical when spraying Future, (or Tamiya or Gunze)—any predominantly alcohol solvent paint.

For flat coats made with Future and Tamiya Flat Base, I do use light, misting coats. Again, I shoot a test piece because the addition of the flat base reduces viscosity and flow. When spraying a flat coat, I may add a small amount of thinner or use a flow aid.

All clear coats are problematic because they are clear, making it harder to see what is happening where the paint meets the surface. This is where science takes the back seat, and art takes over. That's why I often shoot test pieces with all paints. I want to know whether I've got the many variables under control, and whether I'm holding my mouth right … :rolleyes:/> This is where my extensive experience in cat herding really pays off …;)/>

[J-10]

I think what you're looking for is a semi gloss coat and not a flat coat. If you want a flat coat, just thin the tamiya flat. But ~10:1 ratio of Future:Tamiya Flat will give you a nice semi gloss finishing coat. This is what I use to finish my models.

As for spraying future, I've always added 2-3 drops of windex to thin it a bit before spraying. Never had problems with spraying future.