huey_crew_chief Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 I have heard several ways and just was wondering what you guys do. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
11bee Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 I have heard several ways and just was wondering what you guys do. Thanks! Many ways to skin this cat. Really depends if you are going to use the piece you cut out or not. If not, what I typically do is drill a bunch of holes inside the perimeter (ie - in the part that is being discarded). I then use a new xacto knife to carve the piece out. Last step is to delicately sand your way down to the final edge. For this, I purchased a nice set of small metal files (flat, pointed, semi-circular, etc). Not very expensive and they really come in handy. I cut the solid doors out of my Dragon UH-1. Not a major project, just take your time and go slow. If you rush, you inevitably cut too much material out and then you are stuck with a major filling / sanding job. If you are trying to reuse the part being cut out, that is much more involved. Need a very thin razor saw and even then, you will end up with some loss of material. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rotorwash Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 (edited) I have heard several ways and just was wondering what you guys do. Thanks! Dave, I have a razor saw for straight cuts, but I have actually used sewing thread as well. I used thread to cut the pilot door out of the 1/72 Italeri UH-1B kit that I made for my dad. I think it worked pretty well. You just have to take your time and it will take several pieces of thread. I drill a pilot hole for the thread and then work my way up to the areas that are really thin. I'm sure others have better ways of doing this. HTH Ray Edited October 3, 2015 by rotorwash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
11bee Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 Dave, I have a razor saw for straight cuts, but I have actually used sewing thread as well. I used thread to cut the pilot door out of the 1/72 Italeri UH-1B kit that I made for my dad. I think it worked pretty well. You just have to take your time and it will take several pieces of thread. I drill a pilot hole for the thread and then work my way up to the areas that are really thin. I'm sure others have better ways of doing this. HTH Ray Interesting... never thought of that before. This is why I really like this forum. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HELO53 Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 I like to use a dremel with variable speeds. I take a scribe and put more depth on the part I want to remove than use a cutting blade on low speed to cut the piece out corners I use a knife and done. For vents I use a router bit and clean up with files. It works for me and the more you practice at it the faster you get. Which works when some weeks I only get 20 or 30 mins to work a project. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
salvador001 Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 (edited) Dave, I use a new #11 x-acto blade for cutting doors, it depends if you just want to open the door or open the door and use the door to glue it later, if you will not use the door, i will trim the outline of the door frame with the blade until its very thin, then i cut it, or the most easily way is to trim the door from the inside until you reach the border, but you have to be very careful not to pass the line. If you need any help, were all here. Rod. Edited October 3, 2015 by salvador001 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
salvador001 Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 Ray makes the job more easily with the saw, never tried that before, now ill do it. Thanks for the tip my friend! Rod. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rotorwash Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 Since several of you have expressed an interest, here is how I open doors with thread. Keep in mind you wouldn't want to do this if you are trying to save the part, unless you are a lot better than me! Step 1: Drill a pilot hole in a corner of the door. Step 2: insert the thread and decide which direction you will go. The hardest part of this whole deal is stabilizing the part so you can use two hands to saw the thread back and forth. I recommend constant but slow sawing motion. Too fast and the thread breaks and too slow and it doesn't generate enough friction to cut. Step 3: I only use the thread to remove the main part of the door. Step 4: Cut the other two sides. You can see it isn't perfect but I can clean that up with files and sanding sticks. The big advantage as far as I am concerned is you won't ruin your part by accidentally slipping with a blade or saw. Step 5: Clean up the cut and remove the rest of the frame with files and sanding sticks. Total time from beginning to end about 15 minutes. Hope that helps, guys. Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
flightdoc Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 Wow!! That's pretty neat. Would never have thought of that. Walt Haynes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SBARC Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 I've heard of people doing this with dental floss.....never tried it myself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jennings Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 That's how surgeons go through bones for amputations nowadays. It's actually a toothed wire, with metal handles on each end. Same principle though :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rotorwash Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 That's how surgeons go through bones for amputations nowadays. It's actually a toothed wire, with metal handles on each end. Same principle though Yep, it;s called Gigli wire. I teach Veterinary anatomy so it's part of the tool box. Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
huey_crew_chief Posted October 3, 2015 Author Share Posted October 3, 2015 Ray, How do you suggest keeping the piece you are cutting strait? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rotorwash Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 Ray, How do you suggest keeping the piece you are cutting strait? Dave, I assume you mean how to keep the cut straight so you can use the part. First thing would be to lock the part down so it can't move. Then you can carefully direct the thread along the panel line, but honestly I've never tried to save the part so someone else might be able to answer that one better than I. Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
huey_crew_chief Posted October 3, 2015 Author Share Posted October 3, 2015 I am sorry, I mean if you are cutting the door out, how do you keep the body in place? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rotorwash Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 I am sorry, I mean if you are cutting the door out, how do you keep the body in place? A helping hand tool would probably work or a vice. I just sort of winged it on the demo piece, hence the less than perfect line. Perhaps a significant other to hold it for you? sorry I can't be more helpful there. Ray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 Hi We all have our ways to do this. Heres mine, I hope other modelers will share their trick. I usually sand the back of the piece a bit that i am about to remove/cut out, it will be easier to cut it out later ( not so much plastic to cut through). I do as Ray mentioned in his post make tiny holes after I have drawn the pattern on the piece to cut with a lead pencil. i then apply dyno tape along the drawn pattern then use a scriber following the lines. once i have a nice groove to follow i remove the tape and continue with the plastic scriber. I usually tape my corners just in case the scriber travels to far. Good luck and I hope this helps you. oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shanghi Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 Thanks for this post! Was wanting to ask the exact same question! I think i will give all these a try first then see what works for me! Very good info there!! Thank you!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rotorman Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 Hi We all have our ways to do this. Heres mine, I hope other modelers will share their trick. I usually sand the back of the piece a bit that i am about to remove/cut out, it will be easier to cut it out later ( not so much plastic to cut through). I do as Ray mentioned in his post make tiny holes after I have drawn the pattern on the piece to cut with a lead pencil. i then apply dyno tape along the drawn pattern then use a scriber following the lines. once i have a nice groove to follow i remove the tape and continue with the plastic scriber. I usually tape my corners just in case the scriber travels too far. Good luck and I hope this helps you. oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RCAFFAN Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 I've done similar to Ray but instead of thread just used a fine jeweler's/coping saw. Just drill a hole in each corner of part to go and unhook one end of blade from saw, put through one of the holes and reattach then cut away between holes. Holes are useful for turning blade at each corner and saw is fairly controllable such that part can be used afterwards with just a bit of filing of the corner holes..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rich in name only Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Photoetch saws, especially to save the "part" that you will gain (like door). They give the thinnest cut that I've seen. They work especially well with recessed lines to get a good start but with raised panel lines it's just a matter of slower and more attention to start. A #11 blade really complements the work in various ways, usually in getting through a thick spot after using the saw for some depth or those hard spots (as in harder plastic) that sometimes occur within a piece. As noted above, a new 11 is best, Slightly used is okay, anything else is a prescription for slips, BUT: a broken tip can be helpful for some fine tuning along the way. Once you get good at it you'll only need to do a quick sand of the edges and you're done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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