BJ Blazkowicz Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Hi everyone! I have a week off, so it's perfect time to start new model :) . This time it's well known Eduard's Spitfire Mk.IXc in 1/48 scale. This will be my first prop since...I don't even remember when, probably something like early nineties (when I was a teenager). My plan is to have a quick, fun build without any aftermarket, completely OOB. Traditionally, I'll start with box art picture: Progress so far: Some of the plastic had to be removed for canopy in closed position: And with doors glued in position: My first impressions are very good, fit is perfect and only if you want to build model with closed canopy some cutting and sanding is required. Stay tuned for more! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tomcat Tweeker Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Nice Start! Your gonna love that kit! Builds up with very little filler if any.... ! Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nicholassagan Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Nice start! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BJ Blazkowicz Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 Thanks guys! Nice Start! Your gonna love that kit! Builds up with very little filler if any.... ! Dave I hope so Dave - I want to finish it in a week :) In the meantime...I black primed and painted the cockpit (Tamiya XF 71) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) I'll 2nd that. The Eduard kit builds up to a fantastic display piece. the cockpit is very well detailed and needs nothing more, especially since the 3 pc IP is included. The only issue you'll have with the build for some strange reason is the two piece engine cowl. The seam on every build I've seen including my own just resists disappearing using putty and primer. The only way I got it go vanish is with a final coat of thin CCA glue. The decals are absolutely dead on in color, registration, and lay down perfectly. Looking forward to following your build. Here's a picture of my completed Spit Mk.IXc late version. Joel Edited October 26, 2015 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
avgass Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) This will be my first prop since...I don't even remember when, probably something like early nineties (when I was a teenager). My plan is to have a quick, fun build without any aftermarket, completely OOB. Ha! You sound like me.. I've just started building props because I became bored with some badly fitting jet kits. Finished one Spitfire and loved the fact it went together in no time. So now I've accumulated a pile of Spitfires, Seafires, FW190's, BF109's and a Tempest that I need to get through. I'll be watching! Edited October 26, 2015 by avgass Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BJ Blazkowicz Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 Many thanks for comments guys! @Joel_W I was following your build - that's when I decided to buy this kit and give it a go. Thanks for heads up about the engine cowl issue, I guess my build will be no different :). BTW that's a lovely looking Spitfire. @avgrass I hear you :). Plus, you don't have to worry about the jet intakes and nozzles. Update from the bench: Pit finished and fitted in to fuselage: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nicholassagan Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Wow that cockpit looks great! I had some issues with the cowl area as well on mine...but it could have been more from the PE dash not aligning properly... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BJ Blazkowicz Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 Wow that cockpit looks great! I had some issues with the cowl area as well on mine...but it could have been more from the PE dash not aligning properly... Thanks nicholassagan! Not sure if that's what you're talking about, but there is a gap just in front of the cockpit. It got bigger when I fitted the wings. First time I had to use some putty... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nicholassagan Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Yes! That's exactly what happened to me! The canopy didn't fit so well after that either! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 (edited) BJ Blazkowicz, Excellent job on the completed cockpit. I just love how the combination of PE and plastic work so well together for a really nice scale effect. The pilot armor plating looks really in scale as plastic would have just been to thick. Glad that my build got you to try a prop for a change. Us old timers will always be prop men at heart. As for that gap, I had one and sanded/files the Eduard IP assembly down till it fit without any binding issues. For all open seams like that, I would have filled it with Gel CCA 1st, then followed after sanding with a coat of putty. The CCA won't shrink and dries rock hard. The putty will shrink a little more over time, and cause the seam to reappear, as well as becoming brittle and prone to cracking as there is nothing supporting it from the bottom. Joel Edited October 27, 2015 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BJ Blazkowicz Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 Thanks Joel! Once the putty is dry, I'll cover it with layer of CA. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
longmc Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 As for that gap, I had one and sanded/files the Eduard IP assembly down till it fit without any binding issues. I'm about half done with a IXc early, and that's exactly what I did. I used the Barracuda interior set, but it seems to be common (good to know it wasn't me!). Looks great so far! Keep posting updates! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Thanks Joel! Once the putty is dry, I'll cover it with layer of CA. BJ Blazkowicz, That's the best option as of now. More then a few times I've filled a gap with no bottom of plastic or glue with just Squadron Green stuff (now I use automotive Bondo glazing), and there is nothing really to support the putty. So if the area got stressed from holding the molding or trying to fit wings etc. the joint area will twist in opposite directions and the putty often cracks as it's not strong enough to hold the two surfaces in proper alignment. The glue will do that. Gel CCA or epoxy is your best bet for those type of issues. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BJ Blazkowicz Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 (edited) Again, thanks for comments Following Joel's advice (thanks Joel!) I sanded the putty and applied layer of CA. I had to go with thin Loctite Super Glue (only one I got). After an hour I sanded it and it looks like gap is gone. Obviously, I won't know for sure before coat of primer:) Anyway, I used CA as a putty for the first time, and I think I found my favorite filler :)/> Next, Merlin's exhaust. There must have been an issue with sliding mold, since there was a flash on one of the sides. I removed it, but all nice pipe detail was gone as well... Still, the fit is perfect again... And last one for today: It's been a good day. Hopefully I will primed it tomorrow. Thanks! Edited October 28, 2015 by BJ Blazkowicz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 BJ Blazkowicz, Lookin' good. I also use either a med thick CCA like Gorilla Glue, or my favorite is what you used: Loctite Super Gel. Extra thin sucks as a filler as it almost the consistency of water and you'll need layers to get a even fill. The Gels are perfect for these type of applications. I only use Bondo Glazing putty when I need to blend and feather. And not beats auto glazing for that. Strange thing about CCA glues is that they harden but aren't rock hard for a hour or so. Depending on the amount I use, I start to sand within 30 min to an hour. Leaving it for the next day becomes an exercise in frustration as the CCA glue has hardened to a nearly rock like consistency. Checkout your work with a little hand brushed on primer just to make sure that you don't need to do any more sanding later on. Let the primer dry and polish it out. Any little imperfections will be sealed as well. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 I love the choice of subject and marking! You've got a great start on this kit. That cockpit looks really good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BJ Blazkowicz Posted October 28, 2015 Author Share Posted October 28, 2015 Hello Another busy day in the office: First, I had to tackle the gap on engine cowling. I gave it CA treatment Sanded, panel lined re-scribed Main assembly finished, ready for painting :)! Cockpit green first. I used it to check for gaps on front upper section. Closer inspection revealed faint gap between fuel cap and windscreen (barely visible on the picture below). I applied CA again and gap is gone. Priming first thing in the morning tomorrow. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BJ Blazkowicz Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Primed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BJ Blazkowicz Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Work in progress... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nicholassagan Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 Oh man looking good. That black primer is sexy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 BJ Blazkowicz, Excellent job with the CCA glue for those seams. You became an expert literally over night. Glad to see that you went with Black Basing for a primer. I just did the same on my PV-1 build, and the results are amazing, especially those light bottom fuselage colors. And yours looks fantastic. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BJ Blazkowicz Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 (edited) Thank you gents. Yes, so called black basing became my method of choice when it comes to priming and initial weathering. But now, black is history... Enter green :)/> Edited October 30, 2015 by BJ Blazkowicz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nicholassagan Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Oooh yeah!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 BJ Blazkowicz, Interesting concept using green verses black or a dark grey. I would tend to think that the green would change not only the tone, but the actual top colors as it's not related to neutral gray. What I'm really impressed with is your controlled color/tone variation of individual panels. I can easily see myself using that as the last step in Black Basing. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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