B2Blain Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 I would like to use the Mr. Color line of paints but have no experience with them. What do I use to thin for my airbrush? Mr. Color thinner or Mr. Leveling thinner? Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stinger16 Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 I use Leveling thinner. Highly recommended Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 Yes. Mr Leveling Thinner. Mr Color is a lacquer; you may need to spray closer than you're used to. Spend some time learning to use it, you'll be rewarded with the best possible finish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matt Walker Posted November 21, 2015 Share Posted November 21, 2015 And it needs to be thinned quite a bit! I usually do a mix of at least 2-1 thinner-paint. It will be "orange peel" if it's not thinned enough. Best paint I've used. M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
B2Blain Posted November 21, 2015 Author Share Posted November 21, 2015 Thanks for the suggestion, guys! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scooby Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 I go 50/50 and always use their thinners, mostly Mr. Leveling Thinner. If you are spraying spider webs you need to thin more. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
flyfort17 Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 I thin my Mr. Color paints the same as Matt. It might seem to thin but it sprays beautifully. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jinxter13 Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 (edited) I use Leveling thinner. Highly recommended Jeff +1 good stuff...if your paint has been opened and has started to harden, Mr. Color has a Replenisher available I've used it with success to bring back some jars that were pretty stiff. Edited November 22, 2015 by #1 Greywolf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dmanton300 Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 +1 good stuff...if your paint has been opened and has started to harden, Mr. Color has a Replenisher available I've used it with success to bring back some jars that were pretty stiff. I have used it to replenish one jar that wasn't just stiff, but completely dry and cracked! Broke the paint up into chunks and powder, added replenisher, left for 24 hours. You'd never know it wasn't a brand new pot. Sprayed a dream. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matt Walker Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Yes, the Replenisher is Magic!!! :-) M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
galileo1 Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Man, I would absolutely love to switch back from acrylics to Mr. Color but the vapors/smell when sprayed is the ONLY thing holding me back. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
balls47 Posted November 26, 2015 Share Posted November 26, 2015 I use Leveling thinner. Highly recommended Jeff I'll second Stinger 16. Mr. Levelling Thinner is the only way to go. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nachjager Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 I use Leveling thinner. Highly recommended Jeff A few months ago I was on experimentation mode and used the following for thinning Tamiya and Mr. Colors: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-Professional-Lacquer-Thinner-300-VOC-1-qt-4pc/17163377 and I was pleasantly surprised on how good the results. Also it is way cheaper. It takes a little longer to dry than the Mr leveling thinner, thou. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Keeper Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 To affirm Nachjager, Mr. Color is lacquer thinner based so you can use the hardware store generic if it works for you. I got to try some of that Replenisher! Have a few dried up bottles from the seventies to experiment with. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jinxter13 Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 To affirm Nachjager, Mr. Color is lacquer thinner based so you can use the hardware store generic if it works for you. I got to try some of that Replenisher! Have a few dried up bottles from the seventies to experiment with. The jars I used it with weren't that old; please let me know if it works on paint that old. It doesn't seem to work well with other brands, the testors jars I used it with more or less curdled...so I'm guessing the formula differences aren't compatible. I'm not done trying though I'll give it another go adding drops instead of a small pour like before. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
B2Blain Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 I've read where you shouldn't spray enamel over an acrylic coat. I primered the vertical stab of a super hornet with insignia blue enamel and will finish it with Mr. Color gloss insignia blue. Is it ok to spray a lacquer based paint over an enamel. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jinmmydel Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 I've read where you shouldn't spray enamel over an acrylic coat. I primered the vertical stab of a super hornet with insignia blue enamel and will finish it with Mr. Color gloss insignia blue. Is it ok to spray a lacquer based paint over an enamel. Thanks! Yes and no. If enamel is fully cured you shouldn't have a problem unless you lay lacquer on really really wet. The real problem is that most no one allows enamel to fully cure before moving on with builds. It can take days to a couple of weeks for the enamel to completely cure. Last time I sprayed Mr. Color over enamel it melted in some places...because I use incredibly thin paint. Your best bet is to wait a long time, ore don't do it at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 (edited) Yes and no. If enamel is fully cured you shouldn't have a problem unless you lay lacquer on really really wet. The real problem is that most no one allows enamel to fully cure before moving on with builds. It can take days to a couple of weeks for the enamel to completely cure. Last time I sprayed Mr. Color over enamel it melted in some places...because I use incredibly thin paint. Your best bet is to wait a long time, ore don't do it at all. Which magazine and what month's issue is your article on the F-106 in? I'm looking forward to reading your advice on clear coats using Tamiya x-22. and leveling thinner. Thanks, Bob Edited December 18, 2015 by Bob Beary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jinmmydel Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 The 106 will be in the January issue of Model Aircraft. Should be on sale soonish... I didn't really get into great detail on the gloss in that one, but I'll give you the low down here. I've done it 3 times now and it's actually fairly simple. Thin the X-22 with Mr. Leveling thinner. I don't know an exact ratio...enough to make it spray like your typical Tamiya paint. I'd guess 60/40 thinner/clear... I spray that over the model. I usually do the bottom and then come back and do the top after the bottom is dry. Spray the modelw ith the thinned X-22. You then immediately go back over it with straight Mr. Leveling Thinner in a light mist. The leveling thinner re-wets the clear and levels it beautiflly. Just be careful to not touch it. The MLT has retarder in it, so it will be tacky to the touch for a few minutes...you can leave finger prints. I've only ever needed on application. I suspect you could work at building it up by repeating. For the purposes of decals, you will get an excellent gloss coat. I've yet to get anything similar from Future or anything else without a lot more work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 The 106 will be in the January issue of Model Aircraft. Should be on sale soonish... I didn't really get into great detail on the gloss in that one, but I'll give you the low down here. I've done it 3 times now and it's actually fairly simple. Thin the X-22 with Mr. Leveling thinner. I don't know an exact ratio...enough to make it spray like your typical Tamiya paint. I'd guess 60/40 thinner/clear... I spray that over the model. I usually do the bottom and then come back and do the top after the bottom is dry. Spray the modelw ith the thinned X-22. You then immediately go back over it with straight Mr. Leveling Thinner in a light mist. The leveling thinner re-wets the clear and levels it beautiflly. Just be careful to not touch it. The MLT has retarder in it, so it will be tacky to the touch for a few minutes...you can leave finger prints. I've only ever needed on application. I suspect you could work at building it up by repeating. For the purposes of decals, you will get an excellent gloss coat. I've yet to get anything similar from Future or anything else without a lot more work. Thank you sir!! That is exactly what I needed to know. But I'll still buy the magazine to read the article. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jinmmydel Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Oh by all means check out the magazine. Lots of other great stuff in the January issue as well. We appreciate your support! I do believe this is the article I covered the x-2 2 thing in...I'm just having a hard time remembering the particulars. I've done two articles since...working on the third...it becomes cloudy :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Wait until you get to be my age!! :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
B2Blain Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 Yes and no. If enamel is fully cured you shouldn't have a problem unless you lay lacquer on really really wet. The real problem is that most no one allows enamel to fully cure before moving on with builds. It can take days to a couple of weeks for the enamel to completely cure. Last time I sprayed Mr. Color over enamel it melted in some places...because I use incredibly thin paint. Your best bet is to wait a long time, ore don't do it at all. Arghhh. I wish I asked this before spraying enamel. Maybe wait a week? Or should I strip the enamel. I've never airbrushed Mr. Color previously so I thought if it had a base of flat insignia blue that I wouldn't have to spray too much of it. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jinmmydel Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Arghhh. I wish I asked this before spraying enamel. Maybe wait a week? Or should I strip the enamel. I've never airbrushed Mr. Color previously so I thought if it had a base of flat insignia blue that I wouldn't have to spray too much of it. Thanks! Wait a couple of days and just build up the Mr. Color in thin layers. Nothing too wet and you should be fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
galileo1 Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 (edited) Jim, Do you think your gloss technique will work over things painted over either with Tamiya or the Aqueous stuff? I'm thinking that it shouldn't be an issue but was just curious. I'm keen to try this over the Predator I'm working on. Thanks! Rob Edited December 19, 2015 by galileo1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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