rom Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 12 hours ago, skyhawk174 said: As for that putty at the rear of the canopy, I assume that is to represent some quilted padding on the inside of the canopy? Thanks Chris, yes, I tried to represent that kind of "textile/quilted padding" thing that covers the canopy. Not 100% accurate, but it adds some volume and texture. Chers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
twhite80 Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Dude! This is some awesome work! Great subject, and great resin work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
janman Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Awesome work with the beast! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted March 24, 2017 Author Share Posted March 24, 2017 Hello Thanks guys! I sprayed Alclad grey primer on the whole aircraft. The coat was a bit rough so I sanded it smooth wit fine abrasive sponge. Seams reappeared at the wingtip junctions. I had to sand it again... Next, I sprayed Alclad gloss black primer on the future metallic areas. After primer is full dry, black coat is polished with Micromesh abrasives clothes. I used grades 6000 8000 and 12000: Surfaces are very smooth and shiny! Romain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 Hello Vallejo metal acrylics are sprayed on gloss black. An aluminium coat is first sprayed, then lines and surfaces are enhanced with a mix of alu+steel+bronze. cheers Romain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Madhatter Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 nice metal work Romain! Very realistic. Do you prefer the Vallejo metal range or Alclad? I was converted to Alclad a while ago and love them and have been a little hesitant to try out the Vallejo range only because you don't need to thin Alclad etc. Is Vallejo the same in that respect or do you need to thin it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Thanks madhatter! I used to use alclad at first. Then I tried tje Ak enamels. But I must admit I now prefer those vallejo acrylics. Rendering is quite similar to alclad for me. Moreover they dont smell. Very confortable to use. Not sure you have to thin them down. You can spray then from the bottle as well. It dryes very quicly also. And I was able to mask the paint just a few minutes after spraying. Give it a try! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 Hello Some news with big missiles. R-40 RD and TD resin missiles from Plus Model. They are very wharp and detailed. Good value for money.TS26 Tamiya Pure white is sprayed with the airbrush, then, white areas are masked. After masking, black is sprayed as a base for several sprays of acrylic Metal from Vallejo. Tutanium Blue oxydation is done using tamiya pastel. Decals from PLusModel: Black wash using Tamiya enamel product. KittyHawk pylons. Stencils are from Begemot stencils decal sheet nb 48011.A metal rod is inserted in a drilled hole, in order to give a stronger assembly: Final Assembly: Next is dealing with landing gears. Cheers Romain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 On Saturday, April 01, 2017 at 11:17 PM, rom said: Thanks madhatter! I used to use alclad at first. Then I tried tje Ak enamels. But I must admit I now prefer those vallejo acrylics. Rendering is quite similar to alclad for me. Moreover they dont smell. Very confortable to use. Not sure you have to thin them down. You can spray then from the bottle as well. It dryes very quicly also. And I was able to mask the paint just a few minutes after spraying. Give it a try! I don't trust paint that doesn't smell :P I think the vallejo metals are nice but I still prefer my alclads :P Really nice work onntbe metal surfaces and the missiles are outstanding! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 thanks Aigore! you truly have to give a try with Vallejo :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 Hello KH main gears need to be bended more.I took Gary Wickham's work as inspiration.Then struts are detailed with lead wire, aluminium adhavise tape and PE from Eduard set.https://www.scalespot.com/onthebench/mig25/build.htm Armory resin wheels are more detailed and realistic. Struts are painted with gunze 337 thinned with clear varnish and levelling thinner.It gives a very smooth surfaces. After a dark brown wash with oils, details are drybrushed with acrylic light gray. Some details are painted as the wires.AK Enamel Engine Oil is added too on hinges. Base color is a mix okf Akan 73060 and gunze.A brown/black wash is done with oils.Then a drybrush of light green enhance the raised details Tires are painted with gunze H77 tire black.After a black wash, a light grey drybrush make the raised details pop out. Thanks for watching! Do not hesitate to leave comments or critics! Bye Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted June 11, 2017 Author Share Posted June 11, 2017 Hello Bug update with exhaust and camo painting! Exhausts Resin exhausts from Barracuda. A must have if you want to depict an accurate interceptor.Note that the parts provided by Kitty hawk are accurate for... "R" and B" version. I had to remove the kit PC ducts to install those provided by Barracuda. Black primer on barrucuda resin exhausts On the shiny black base, Vallejo acrylic aluminium is sprayed. Weathering on the exhausts is almost exclusively done using acrylic products. Small inner petals are brushed with green, then textured using lighter color "stamped" with a piece of foam. Then petals are drybrushed with light green. Inner big petals are painted with dark gray steel. Then raised petals are painted using metal pastel drom tamiya, in a shading from blue, to burnt red, to tan. A acrylic wash is then applied. Outer petals are tainted with burnt red pigments, and a black wash is applied. CAMO PAINTING Black Basing! The mig is primed with Mr Hobby black Surfacer, then smooth sanded with abarasive pads and micromesh with water: Black areas are filled using a very light mix of grays and off white. Paint is sprayed in a "mottling" manner.Then some beige, blue and smoke is sprayed on some panels: Now I can spray the final color coat using Akan 73059 gray, mixed with clear varnish and flow improver. The mix is thinned with Levelling thinner.The paint is heavily thinned, in order to keep control on opacity: After the first coat, effects are too strong. I will spray another very thinned coat adding some blue in it. Result after second coat. Effect are still here, but more subtle: Bye! Romain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jgrease Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 Romain - Great job on your MiG. In my opinion your black basing could use another coat of grey. The effect is still a little stark, unless it's just the photography. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChernayaAkula Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Good stuff! The nozzles look fantastic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted June 15, 2017 Author Share Posted June 15, 2017 Thank you guys! @John, Yes I agree. But after, varnish, decal, washes and filter, I fear that the effect could be erased. So, I plan to spray a very diluted final coat at the end if the effect is too strong. Cheers Romain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
drake122 Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Masterwork! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shorty84 Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 Hi Romain, nice to see you plugging along on the beast. Looks great, especially the black basing. I've recently picked up my Foxbat again and immediately remembered why I put it back in the box 1,5 years ago. It fights me in ever step. Currently I'm really thinking of taking the ICM kit, the CWS nose plus some scratch modification to get another PD. My hope is that the better buildability of the ICM kit gives me a more pleasant experience (won't touch another KH Foxbat for sure). One question regarding your build. Didn't all Iraqi machines have the larger wing fences with the integrated flare dispensers? I'm asking because you've installed the standard ones which are in the kit (another goof of KH as basically all export machines had them, except the Algerian ones and older exported P's). Cheers Markus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 Thanks guys! @markus: do you have any pictures of those wing fences? Thanks !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shorty84 Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 Unfortunately there are next to zero detail pics of this installation. The best one I've seen is in this thread here at ARC (3rd pic): http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/215133-172-mig-25pd/ The flare dispensers were called KDS-155 and seem to be standard for export Foxbats (PD-version only) as these machines were to be expected to operate at lower heights where they could encounter enemy fighters. Cheers Markus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IAGeezer Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 (edited) re-The pic mentioned showing the Marines on the Foxbat. There was nothing forward of the intakes on that bird. No cockpit, or nose, but it DID have the short exhaust petals out back. We found a two-seater hidden in the date palms nearby, with wings removed, but located the wings about 50 yards away. They had the normal wing fences. Edited June 24, 2017 by IAGeezer re-written Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IAGeezer Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 (edited) On 6/22/2017 at 2:18 AM, Shorty84 said: Unfortunately there are next to zero detail pics of this installation. The best one I've seen is in this thread here at ARC (3rd pic): http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/215133-172-mig-25pd/ The flare dispensers were called KDS-155 and seem to be standard for export Foxbats (PD-version only) as these machines were to be expected to operate at lower heights where they could encounter enemy fighters. Cheers Markus Well, I screwed that one up! See above post.... Edited June 24, 2017 by IAGeezer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 (edited) Thank you very much guys for your help!! I will see if I can do something. Cheers Edited June 24, 2017 by rom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 Hello carrying on painting! Basic masking and painting for radome and RWR areas. Intake doors were positioned like this because the KH instructions and parts are not accurate.But now, we see the whole MIg interior... Eduard set 48808 will be helpful to hide the mig guts... Intakes are painted grey, then washed with black grey thinned oil, and drybrushed with light grey. Doors are primed with Mr Hobby Metal primer, primed with yellow and painted red with H3. Romain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ya-gabor Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 On 2017. 06. 25. at 2:55 PM, rom said: Eduard set 48808 will be helpful to hide the mig guts... Intakes are painted grey, then washed with black grey thinned oil, and drybrushed with light grey. Doors are primed with Mr Hobby Metal primer, primed with yellow and painted red with H3. The intake cover is not “exactly” right in the Eduard set. It was a real fight with them in the design and in the end only something similar was produced. (You would not want to see the pure fiction which was this set at the start) Anyway, the red covers have a black textile sealer at the edges (riveted to the aluminium cover, the rivets are represented on the brass) to protect the aircraft intake surface from scratching by the metal cover and to provide a tight fit. So the edges should be black (well dark grey in scale colour) but what’s more the bottom part of the guard has an additional textile protector about half meter wide which lays down on the bottom of the intake inside when the cover is in place to seal any gaps left (depending on how the intake top ramp is positioned). It is easy to add some paint on the edges at this stage and also the textile at the bottom. Best regards Gabor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rom Posted June 27, 2017 Author Share Posted June 27, 2017 Thank you very much gabor! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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