rom

1/48 Iraqi Mig-25 PDS

100 posts in this topic

12 hours ago, skyhawk174 said:

 

 

As for that putty at the rear of the canopy, I assume that is to represent some quilted padding on the inside of the canopy?

 

 

Thanks Chris,

 

yes, I tried to represent that kind of "textile/quilted padding" thing that covers the canopy.

Not 100% accurate, but it adds some volume and texture.

 

Chers!

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Dude! This is some awesome work!  Great subject, and great resin work. 

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Awesome work with the beast! 

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Hello

Thanks guys!

 

I sprayed Alclad grey primer on the whole aircraft.

The coat was a bit rough so I sanded it smooth wit fine abrasive sponge.

 

Seams reappeared  at the wingtip junctions.

I had to sand it again...

 

20170321_203049_zps2utu3sgd.jpg

 

 

 

Next, I sprayed Alclad gloss black primer on the future metallic areas.


20170321_203037_zpsjhau6rha.jpg


20170321_202929_zpso6jokc9t.jpg

 

20170321_202806_zpsfsfhbizr.jpg

 

 

 


After primer is full dry, black coat is polished with Micromesh abrasives clothes. I used grades 6000 8000 and 12000:

 

20170322_221604_zpsugb4jye2.jpg
20170322_221402_zpsxsnr6kuy.jpg

 

Surfaces are very smooth and shiny!

 

 


Romain

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Hello

 

 

Vallejo metal acrylics are sprayed on gloss black.

An aluminium coat is first sprayed, then lines and surfaces are enhanced with a mix of alu+steel+bronze.

 

20170329_204159_zpsc7d1aix0.jpg

20170329_204648_zps8jimxtlb.jpg

20170329_204840_zpsvnlblu1u.jpg


cheers

Romain

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nice metal work Romain! Very realistic. Do you prefer the Vallejo metal range or Alclad? I was converted to Alclad a while ago and love them and have been a little hesitant to try out the Vallejo range only because you don't need to thin Alclad etc. Is Vallejo the same in that respect or do you need to thin it?

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Thanks madhatter!

I used to use alclad at first.

Then I tried tje Ak enamels.

But I must admit I now prefer those vallejo acrylics.

Rendering is quite similar to alclad for me. Moreover they dont smell. Very confortable to use.

Not sure you have to thin them down. You can spray then from the bottle as well. 

It dryes very quicly also. And I was able to mask the paint just a few minutes after spraying.

 

Give it a try!

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Hello

 

Some news with big missiles.

 

R-40 RD and TD resin missiles from Plus Model. They are very wharp and detailed.

Good value for money.
TS26 Tamiya Pure white is sprayed with the airbrush, then, white areas are masked.

 

20170505_204701_zps9hp4lcsx.jpg

 

 

 

After masking, black is sprayed as a base for several sprays of acrylic Metal from Vallejo. Tutanium Blue oxydation is done using tamiya pastel.

 

IMG_0109_zps2nvomk2d.jpg

 

 

Decals from PLusModel:

 

IMG_0115_zpshvt9yigl.jpg

IMG_0131_zps7jflatex.jpg

 

 

 

Black wash using Tamiya enamel product.

 

IMG_0137_zpsgcbn90lx.jpg

 

 

 

KittyHawk pylons. Stencils are from Begemot stencils decal sheet nb 48011.
A metal rod is inserted in a drilled hole, in order to give a stronger assembly:

 

IMG_0142_zpsjkv2kysd.jpg

 

 


Final Assembly:

 

IMG_0150_zpsbgts23oh.jpg


 

 

Next is dealing with landing gears.

 

Cheers

 

Romain

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On Saturday, April 01, 2017 at 11:17 PM, rom said:

Thanks madhatter!

I used to use alclad at first.

Then I tried tje Ak enamels.

But I must admit I now prefer those vallejo acrylics.

Rendering is quite similar to alclad for me. Moreover they dont smell. Very confortable to use.

Not sure you have to thin them down. You can spray then from the bottle as well. 

It dryes very quicly also. And I was able to mask the paint just a few minutes after spraying.

 

Give it a try!

I don't trust paint that doesn't smell :P

I think the vallejo metals are nice but I still prefer my  alclads :P

Really nice work onntbe metal surfaces and the missiles are outstanding!

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thanks Aigore!

you truly have to give a try with Vallejo :)

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Hello

 

 

KH main gears need to be bended more.I took Gary Wickham's work as inspiration.
Then struts are detailed with lead wire, aluminium adhavise tape and PE from Eduard set.

https://www.scalespot.com/onthebench/mig25/build.htm

 

20151018_181909_zpsx6u2olrr.jpg

 

 

 

 

Armory resin wheels are more detailed and realistic.

 

IMG_8406_zpsklvlfp7d.jpg

 

 

 

Struts are painted with gunze 337 thinned with clear varnish and levelling thinner.
It gives a very smooth surfaces.

 

IMG_0151_zpszy1xkzqy.jpg

 

 

 


After a dark brown wash with oils, details are drybrushed with acrylic light gray.

 

IMG_0157_zpsep9bflkt.jpg

 

 

 

Some details are painted as the wires.
AK Enamel Engine Oil is added too on hinges.

 

IMG_0174_zpsusp0fild.jpg

 

 

 

Base color is a mix okf Akan 73060 and gunze.
A brown/black wash is done with oils.
Then a drybrush of light green enhance the raised details

 

IMG_0160_zpspblzxobf.jpg

 

 

 

Tires are painted with gunze H77 tire black.
After a black wash, a light grey drybrush make the raised details pop out.


IMG_0172_zpsudw9yhiy.jpg

 

IMG_0175_zpsyaaobpla.jpg

 

IMG_0176_zpsyelcxzd2.jpg

 

 

Thanks for watching!

Do not hesitate to leave comments or critics!

 

 

Bye

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Hello


Bug update with exhaust and camo painting!

 

Exhausts

Resin exhausts from Barracuda. A must have if you want to depict an accurate interceptor.
Note that the parts provided by Kitty hawk are accurate for... "R" and B" version.


receiv13_zpshujw0kic.jpg20161003_191332-1_zpsx52f8mts.jpg

 

 

 

I had to remove the kit PC ducts to install those provided by Barracuda.

 

receiv15_zps0qmn6gnd.jpg

 

 

 

 

Black primer on barrucuda resin exhausts

 

20170321_202806_zpsfsfhbizr.jpg

 

 

 

 

On the shiny black base, Vallejo acrylic aluminium is sprayed.

Weathering on the exhausts is almost exclusively done using acrylic products.
Small inner petals are brushed with green, then textured using lighter color "stamped" with a piece of foam. Then petals are drybrushed with light green.
Inner big petals are painted with dark gray steel. 
Then raised petals are painted using metal pastel drom tamiya, in a shading from blue, to burnt red, to tan.
A acrylic wash is then applied.

Outer petals are tainted with burnt red pigments, and a black wash is applied.

IMG_0185_zps8uvlqy55.jpg
IMG_0191_zps7uqygr4r.jpg
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CAMO PAINTING

Black Basing!

 

The mig is primed with Mr Hobby black Surfacer, then smooth sanded with abarasive pads and micromesh with water:

 

IMG_0118_zpsv5xdryck.jpg

 

 

 

Black areas are filled using a very light mix of grays and off white. Paint is sprayed in a "mottling" manner.
Then some beige, blue and smoke is sprayed on some panels:

 

IMG_0192_zpsgct1ofnf.jpg
IMG_0195_zps1afce2vh.jpg

 

 

 

Now I can spray the final color coat using Akan 73059 gray, mixed with clear varnish and flow improver. The mix is thinned with Levelling thinner.
The paint is heavily thinned, in order to keep control on opacity:

 

IMG_0198_zps0vvcv5ps.jpg

 

 

 

 

After the first coat, effects are too strong.
I will spray another very thinned coat adding some blue in it.

 

IMG_0199_zpste3tpu9u.jpg

 

 

 

 

Result after second coat. Effect are still here, but more subtle:

 

IMG_0203_zpsoclarwiz.jpg
IMG_0204_zpsxrr27230.jpg
IMG_0206_zps5vafhokz.jpg

 

 


Bye!

 

Romain

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Romain - Great job on your MiG. In my opinion your black basing could use another coat of grey. The effect is still a little stark, unless it's just the photography.

 

John

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Good stuff! :worship: The nozzles look fantastic. 

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Thank you guys!

 

@John, Yes I agree.  But after, varnish, decal, washes and filter, I fear that the effect could be erased.

So, I plan to spray a very diluted final coat at the end if the effect is too strong.

 

Cheers

 

Romain

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Hi Romain,

 

nice to see you plugging along on the beast. Looks great, especially the black basing.

 

I've recently picked up my Foxbat again and immediately remembered why I put it back in the box 1,5 years ago. It fights me in ever step.

Currently I'm really thinking of taking the ICM kit, the CWS nose plus some scratch modification to get another PD. My hope is that the better buildability of the ICM kit gives me a more pleasant experience (won't touch another KH Foxbat for sure).

 

One question regarding your build. Didn't all Iraqi machines have the larger wing fences with the integrated flare dispensers? I'm asking because you've installed the standard ones which are in the kit (another goof of KH as basically all export machines had them, except the Algerian ones and older exported P's).

 

Cheers Markus

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Thanks guys!

@markus: do you have any pictures of those wing fences? Thanks !!

 

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Unfortunately there are next to zero detail pics of this installation. The best one I've seen is in this thread here at ARC (3rd pic): http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/215133-172-mig-25pd/

 

The flare dispensers were called KDS-155 and seem to be standard for export Foxbats (PD-version only) as these machines were to be expected to operate at lower heights where they could encounter enemy fighters.

 

Cheers Markus

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re-The pic mentioned showing the Marines on the Foxbat. There was nothing forward of the intakes on that bird. No cockpit, or nose, but it DID have the short exhaust petals out back. We found a two-seater hidden in the date palms nearby, with wings removed, but located the wings about 50 yards away. They had the normal wing fences.

Edited by IAGeezer
re-written

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On ‎6‎/‎22‎/‎2017 at 2:18 AM, Shorty84 said:

Unfortunately there are next to zero detail pics of this installation. The best one I've seen is in this thread here at ARC (3rd pic): http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/215133-172-mig-25pd/

 

The flare dispensers were called KDS-155 and seem to be standard for export Foxbats (PD-version only) as these machines were to be expected to operate at lower heights where they could encounter enemy fighters.

 

Cheers Markus

Well, I screwed that one up! See above post....

Edited by IAGeezer

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Thank you very much guys for your help!!

I will see if I can do something.

 

Cheers

Edited by rom

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Hello

 

carrying on painting!

Basic masking and painting for radome and RWR areas.

 

IMG_0217_zps8pjqx3n5.jpg
IMG_0218_zps7menxhtq.jpg
IMG_0215_zps9w5doe7g.jpg

 

 

 

Intake doors were positioned like this because the KH instructions and parts are not accurate.
But now, we see the whole MIg interior...

 

IMG_0226_zpstazjocw6.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Eduard set 48808 will be helpful to hide the mig guts...

 

IMG_0227_zpsxraf3skr.jpg

 

 

 

Intakes are painted grey, then washed with black grey thinned oil, and drybrushed with light grey.
Doors are primed with Mr Hobby Metal primer, primed with yellow and painted red with H3.

 

IMG_0228_zpsyyito6z3.jpg

 

 

 

Romain

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On 2017. 06. 25. at 2:55 PM, rom said:

Eduard set 48808 will be helpful to hide the mig guts...

 

IMG_0227_zpsxraf3skr.jpg

 

 

 

Intakes are painted grey, then washed with black grey thinned oil, and drybrushed with light grey.
Doors are primed with Mr Hobby Metal primer, primed with yellow and painted red with H3.

 

IMG_0228_zpsyyito6z3.jpg

The intake cover is not “exactly” right in the Eduard set. It was a real fight with them in the design and in the end only something similar was produced. (You would not want to see the pure fiction which was this set at the start)

 

Anyway, the red covers have a black textile sealer at the edges (riveted to the aluminium cover, the rivets are represented on the brass) to protect the aircraft intake surface from scratching by the metal cover and to provide a tight fit. So the edges should be black (well dark grey in scale colour) but what’s more the bottom part of the guard has an additional textile protector about half meter wide which lays down on the bottom of the intake inside when the cover is in place to seal any gaps left (depending on how the intake top ramp is positioned). It is easy to add some paint on the edges at this stage and also the textile at the bottom.

 

Best regards

Gabor

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