Jinxter13 Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 Jeeez.....how did I miss this one, I'm gonna ask it's really so good, how did you get the worn/faded paint look. It's not evenly weathered, which almost never happens . Looks fantastic anxious for le grande finale.....ya finished yet? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Major Walt Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 I agree with Greywolf. Awesome weathering! Is that the "Ruptured Duck"? It's hard to zoom in on the nose art. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted March 27, 2016 Author Share Posted March 27, 2016 Nice to see the progress Joel, All the work is paying off. Regards, Kent Kent, Thanks for the positive comment as it's always much appreciated. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted March 27, 2016 Author Share Posted March 27, 2016 Jeeez.....how did I miss this one, I'm gonna ask it's really so good, how did you get the worn/faded paint look. It's not evenly weathered, which almost never happens :hmmm:/> . Looks fantastic anxious for le grande finale.....ya finished yet? :whistle:/> Greywolf, Welcome aboard. Better late then never. Lately, I've missed more new builds here on ARC then I care to admit. But work and family life (sick wife in the hospital) has really put a dent into my modeling time. After looking at all the photos I could find of the actual B-25Bs aboard the USS Hornet, they all seemed to show a fair amount of weathering, ei. blotchy upper paint, oil and grease stains, but not very much chipping and wear and tear one would expect to see no well used but not abused aircraft. So I took this to mean that these aircraft weren't new right off the line, but rather just well maintained aircraft. I've been using my own home brew of black basing which is basically the opposite of the usual method. I use either Tamiya Gray primer, or lately Mig AMMO Acrylic Gray primer. Then plain old flat black, dark gray. The accepted method is little, tight squiggles to give the impression of fading, bleaching, and just wear & tear. but honestly, that just doesn't seem to be the pattern for the Mitchells, rather just uneven blotches, so I applied a solid base coat of Mig Ammo gray primer. The base color coat is Lifecolor UA 005 O.D.#41 FS34088 thinned with their proprietary thinner. I'm still experimenting with thinning ratios but 3:1 or so paint to thinner seems to work well with my paint setup using a flow rate of 16 psi. Lifecolor makes a weathered UA 003 O.D. #41 FS34088 which is just a perfect lighter shade to complement the base O.D. color. I thinned that out a little more, and dropped the flow psi to about 12 or so, and stayed in real tight. I use Iwata single action ABs, and for the main color used the M2 with a .4mm needle, and a M1 with a .3mm needle for the weathered O.D. As for the pattern, well, it's mostly guesswork trying to match what I could actually see in the photographs. But as you already pointed out, there really isn't a even pattern, so I just did my thing, and that's the results. Still, more weathering to go, but not a lot. A light darkish grimy filter with Tamiya acrylics highly diluted to blend everything together, some dry brushing and that's it. The Matt finish will be courtesy of Alcad II Klear Kote #314. I haven't even started the engines yet, so there's a week or so, and of course the base and mounting as I opted not to weight the Mitchell. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted March 27, 2016 Author Share Posted March 27, 2016 I agree with Greywolf. Awesome weathering! Is that the "Ruptured Duck"? It's hard to zoom in on the nose art. Hi Walt, Welcome aboard. And yes, it's the Ruptured Duck. Sorry that I didn't get a nice close up of it, as it's best markings of the group. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share Posted April 3, 2016 With work and some major family health issues, I haven't had much time to model, but I finally have completed enough work for a short update. After the decals had dried, I applied two coats of Alcad II Lacquer Gloss #310 which is pre-thinned @ a flow rate of 20 psi. The next work session I hand brushed on 1 even coat of flory's Dark Acrylic Sludge wash, removed the excess when dry, then two more blotchy coats. When I was satisfied with the results, I sealed the washes with Alcad II Lacquer #314 Flat finish, and I do mean dead flat also at a flow rate of 20 psi. For those of you who aren't familiar with the Alcad II clears, they're not Lacquer based, there Mineral spirit based. The confusion comes from the issue that Alcad II Lacquer is the company name. The Clears clearly state on the label that they're Mineral Spirit based. And one sniff will confirm that fact. I wasn't very happy how the Ruptured Duck decal looked as I never could get it to lay down correctly, so I decided to weather it. However, I went a little too far. But there is really no turning back, so I'll have to live with the results. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 Dang it's looking good, despite the duck :D I see some real depth in there! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Major Walt Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 I actually was quite impressed by the weathering as it looks very realistic. This is one of the best B-25 builds I've seen in quite a while. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share Posted April 3, 2016 (edited) Guys, I keep on staring at the Vertical stabs and those crappy kit decals just look horrendous. So before I try to remove both stabs and strip all the paint off, I decided to give it one more coat of Flory Dark Sludge wash as there is a flat coat that should hold more of the wash. I'm thinking that the wash hides just enough of the clear film to sneak by. One way or the other, it's my shear laziness that has caused this issue to go this far. Joel Edited April 3, 2016 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share Posted April 3, 2016 Dang it's looking good, despite the duck :D/> I see some real depth in there! Janne, Thank for those kind words, especially overlooking those horrid tail markings. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share Posted April 3, 2016 I actually was quite impressed by the weathering as it looks very realistic. This is one of the best B-25 builds I've seen in quite a while. Major Walt, Thanks so much for those most kind words. but as I posted I tried to take the easy way out on the tail marking, and it raised it's ugly head and bit me in the fool. Hopefully the Sludge wash I just posted make it less noticeable. I'm going to do one more wash later tonight. If it looks ok, then I'll seal and move on to the engines, which are turning into mini kits of their own. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jgrease Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 Joel - bad luck with those decals - very frustrating indeed! Still a nice build but I can certainly understand your distraction due to the decal quality. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Joel - bad luck with those decals - very frustrating indeed! Still a nice build but I can certainly understand your distraction due to the decal quality. John John, Thanks for the support. but those damn decals Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Beary Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Guys, I keep on staring at the Vertical stabs and those crappy kit decals just look horrendous. So before I try to remove both stabs and strip all the paint off, I decided to give it one more coat of Flory Dark Sludge wash as there is a flat coat that should hold more of the wash. I'm thinking that the wash hides just enough of the clear film to sneak by. One way or the other, it's my shear laziness that has caused this issue to go this far. Joel Before you remove the stabs...have you tried using a needle to poke a lot of small hole in the decals and try to get some Micro sol to wick under them? If that doesn't work I'd use some tape to rip the decals off. I wouldn't risk any damage by taking the stabs off. They should be easy enough to leave in place and re-mask if needed. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Before you remove the stabs...have you tried using a needle to poke a lot of small hole in the decals and try to get some Micro sol to wick under them? If that doesn't work I'd use some tape to rip the decals off. I wouldn't risk any damage by taking the stabs off. They should be easy enough to leave in place and re-mask if needed. Bob Bob, I decided not to remove the Vertical Stabs and try the tape method. I've accidently pulled up the tail decals from Fightertown on my A-6E build after it was sealed with Pledge. So I had high hopes of doing the same with the Vertical Stab numbers. Naturally, this time it didn't work. could have been the sealers I've use, I just don't know. So I bit the bullet and sanded off the numbers on both sides. Took it right down to bare plastic. Sanded with 320,600, 4000, 6000, 8000, & 12000. Tomorrow I prime. Tuesday I polish the primer then Lifecolor #43 OD. Weds I polish the paint out and seal with Alcad II Gloss. Thursday I decal with another seat from the kit but with each number cut out and trimmed the best I can get it. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
falcon20driver Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Joel, I certainly understand the frustration of decals not behaving the way you'd hoped. With that being said, this truly is a beautiful looking build. Your painting and weathering are top notch. I hope your family member gets feeling better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bradebaugh Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Joel, looks good. Before its too late you might want to check out the correct panel lines for the nose gear doors. AM/Academy has them wrong. Look at a Monogram kit. BTW, the photos showing the correct window arrangement for the B model came from my web page. http://partsrparts.homestead.com/B25Bwindows.html# Bruce Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Exhausted Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 you can always use a thin brush to tidy the decal up Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aigore Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Bob, I decided not to remove the Vertical Stabs and try the tape method. I've accidently pulled up the tail decals from Fightertown on my A-6E build after it was sealed with Pledge. So I had high hopes of doing the same with the Vertical Stab numbers. Naturally, this time it didn't work. could have been the sealers I've use, I just don't know. So I bit the bullet and sanded off the numbers on both sides. Took it right down to bare plastic. Sanded with 320,600, 4000, 6000, 8000, & 12000. Tomorrow I prime. Tuesday I polish the primer then Lifecolor #43 OD. Weds I polish the paint out and seal with Alcad II Gloss. Thursday I decal with another seat from the kit but with each number cut out and trimmed the best I can get it. Joel Sometimes it's the harder kind love that works :) You keep at it and dominate that model!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kurnass77 Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Ehi Joel, first I will congratulate with you for the painting,is really,really,really good!!!! Look so convincing,I litterally love it! Second,I'm sad for the decals and can feel your frustration; in my Hornet I finished with strip paint and decals after trying to hide the problems ( in my case,thick decals). But I'm sure you can manege the isuue,keep up the good work my friend! Gianni Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Joel, I certainly understand the frustration of decals not behaving the way you'd hoped. With that being said, this truly is a beautiful looking build. Your painting and weathering are top notch. I hope your family member gets feeling better. F20D, Thanks for those most kind words. I'll win the battle of the decals one way or the other. Painting and weathering are my favorite parts of any build. And thanks for the get well wishes for my wife, it's going to be a long, hard fought battle, but we'll win that one too. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Joel, looks good. Before its too late you might want to check out the correct panel lines for the nose gear doors. AM/Academy has them wrong. Look at a Monogram kit. BTW, the photos showing the correct window arrangement for the B model came from my web page. http://partsrparts.h...5Bwindows.html# Bruce Bruce, Thanks for the info. But I'm way past the re-scribing stage. And thank you for posting those incredible pictures. I had no idea that there were so many differences that needed to be corrected. I did my best to duplicate them Joe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Ehi Joel, first I will congratulate with you for the painting,is really,really,really good!!!! Look so convincing,I litterally love it! Second,I'm sad for the decals and can feel your frustration; in my Hornet I finished with strip paint and decals after trying to hide the problems ( in my case,thick decals). But I'm sure you can manege the isuue,keep up the good work my friend! :thumbsup:/> Gianni Gianni, thank you so much for your compliments on my painting and finishing. Like I said, I'll win the decal battle one way or the other. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Sometimes it's the harder kind love that works :)/> You keep at it and dominate that model!!! Janne, Will do my friend. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ivy-5 Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Joel, your painting and weathering look fantastic. I'm sure you will win over the decals ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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