1/48 Academy B-25B Mitchell

[Joel_W]

Also keeping this as a reference for my build.

With regards to the window, maybe you could use some clear lexan plastic, like that used for r/c cars bodyshells?

cliguy,

there are all sorts of clear plastic I can use. But I keep on looking at the window in the PV-1, and all you really see is a shiny gloss black window. So it really doesn't matter that much what I make the window out of, I'm going to paint it smoke, then use Krystal Kleer for the lens.

Joel

[Aigore]

Looking good there, nice pit and nice corrective surgery on the windows :D

[Joel_W]

Looking good there, nice pit and nice corrective surgery on the windows :D/>

Janne,

Thanks for stopping by and having a look. Thought that you would appreciate those little corrections.

Joel

[Joel_W]

Well, I finished another interior sub assembly. This time the navigator compartment and the center section of the bomb bay. Basically there's nothing special as they're straight OOB for a change.

The Navigator compartment is right behind the cockpit. The compartment was painted with Lifecolor Basic Interior Green FS 34151 over Mig Ammo Gray primer. Some of the radio equipment was painted Nato Black then dry brushed with a light gray rather then the more traditional silver for a softer overall look. The seat cushions were painted with Model Master enamel Leather. The fuselage walls haven't been painted as yet, so they're just raw gray plastic.

The Bombay section was also primed with Mig Ammo acrylic gray primer, then a Alcad2 Dark Aluminum # 103 was air brushed on. After a few hours to dry, I sealed the Alcad2 with Testor's MM Metallic Clear coat. Let that dry for an hour, then a wash of MM enamel Raw Sienna thinned with their Red Can Mineral Spirits. I let that dry for several hours, then another sealing clear coat.

you can see the difference in shades and color from the bare fuselage walls.

Here's an overall shot showing the tunnel from the nose to the lower compartment.

So far the part fit has been excellent. I did have 4 pin ejection marks to deal with on the side walls of the bomb bay, but that was it. And yes, there is some flash here and there, but considering the age and number of moldings of this kit, it's a lot less then I would have expected.

Joel

[Joel_W]

Joel,

Great build so far, I just stumbled upon it.

Nifty idea with the seat belts.

Watching with interest,

Colin :)/>

Colin,

Glad that you found my build, and equally as glad that you like my progress to date. The seatbelts are really a very old method that we used back in the 70s. That's all that we really had back then. There was almost no After Market anything other then decals.

Joel

[Joel_W]

You certainly seem to make em work my friend :)/>

I`ll have to give those a shot on the Storch I`m making now. Beats using Plasticine! :)/>

Cheers,

Colin

Colin,

Sometimes the old ways are still the best ways.

Joel

[Shaka HI]

In a blink of an eye and Joe's onto another build! Looks fantastic so far...keep going!

[Joel_W]

Work has continued at my usual snails pace. Using the center section of the bomb bay sub assembly as a paint mask, I 1st painted each fuselage half Lifecolor Interior Green FS34151

Then I painted the side fuselage walls of the bomb bay Alcad Dark Aluminum #103, so each fuselage half looks like this.

the side walls of the bomb bay are the rib sections for the fuselage walls. I also painted them Alcad Dark Aluminum.

I then sealed the fuselage halves and the bomb bay parts with Testors Metalizer sealer, let it dry for an hour or so, then gave it a wash dirty black wash.

Then I test fitted the bomb bay assembly and taped the fuselage halves together to check for fit, which was surprisingly very good.

Getting closer to actually being able to glue up the fuselage halves.

Joel

[Aigore]

Great paintjob on that not to be seen-interior :P Did the same thing on my Mitchel.

[Joel_W]

Great paintjob on that not to be seen-interior :P/> Did the same thing on my Mitchel.

Janne,

Yeah, In a sense it just wasted effort, but it does look so good, and the bomb bay is incredible. At least I didn't add any wiring or more plumbing, but I was really tempted.

Joel

[Aigore]

Janne,

Yeah, In a sense it just wasted effort, but it does look so good, and the bomb bay is incredible. At least I didn't add any wiring or more plumbing, but I was really tempted.

Joel

Hehe, yeah...I do have the same urges :P

[dnl42]

Joel,

Just found this

[Joel_W]

Dnl42,

Thanks for the picture. I downloaded it for my reference file. Those rope tie downs to the deck have spawned a idea on how I just might display my Mitchell especially since I opted not to put any weight in the nose area out of fear of snapping the front landing gear strut.

Joel

Edited January 15, 2016 by Joel_W

[falcon20driver]

That is some seriously great work so far Joel. Keep it up

[Joel_W]

That is some seriously great work so far Joel. Keep it up :thumbsup:/>

F20d,

Thanks so much for stopping by and liking my most modest of efforts. Just gotta love those twin props.

Joel

[dnl42]

Dnl42,

Thanks for the picture. I downloaded it for my reference file. Those rope tie downs to the deck have spawned a idea on how I just might display my Mitchell especially since I opted not to put any weight in the nose area out of fear of snapping the front landing gear strut.

Joel

Adding weight to balance has little impact on the nose gear; the added weight is mostly borne by the main gear. Also, note the total weight (170gm) is the same as the total of MLG (155gm) and NLG (15gm).

Yes, I know I messed up the intake :(

[Joel_W]

Dnl42,

Thanks for that physics lessen. The more I think about it, the more it makes sense. Unfortunately, it way to late to try and stuff any weight into the crawl space.

Joel

[Joel_W]

Spent the last hour or so researching the issue of just what the flying surfaces were made of. Everything I read said that all flying surfaces during the war were constructed out of fabric regardless of the fact that the rest of the air frame was metal. the reasons cited were;

lighter in weight.

Thus easier to balance them in flight, lessen buffering

Easier and quicker to repair when damaged.

The same paint was used to paint the entire aircraft, just that it faded at a different rate. Newer flying surfaces appear as darker rather then lighter.

Joel

[Cubs2jets]

My 2 cents worth on the control surfaces...

Rudders and elevators fabric covered, ailerons metal covered.

I stand to be corrected.

C2j

[CF104]

My 2 cents worth on the control surfaces...

Rudders and elevators fabric covered, ailerons metal covered.

I stand to be corrected.

C2j

The Ailerons were fabric covered as well.

Cutaway

Cheers,

John

[dnl42]

The Ailerons were fabric covered as well.

Cutaway

Cheers,

John

THAT is a cool site! Here's the index for the B-25!

[Joel_W]

As I Mentioned my friend Karl, who literally has the most extensive expertise on B-17s and B-25s I've ever encountered, not only confirmed that all the flying surfaces were in fact fabric covered, but furnished military line drawers as documentation.

Joel

Edited January 24, 2016 by Joel_W

[crackerjazz]

I just checked back on this side of the forest and chanced upon this build. Youre like a machine, Joel! Beautiful work, so far, and very educational thread.

[Joel_W]

I just checked back on this side of the forest and chanced upon this build. Youre like a machine, Joel! Beautiful work, so far, and very educational thread.

crackerjazz,

Glad you found my build, and thanks so much for those more then kind words.

I'm really not like a modeling machine, but unlike the majority here on the list, I've been only working on one build at a time through completion, so they seem to go fast, but not really. Moving forward, I'm going to be expanding my model building to my other love: race car models from eras gone bye. I'll post them in the Auto forum here, but it will slow down my machine like approach a great deal. I'll most like work on two models at the same time, just alternating days. At least this way I have sometime to share with you guys without months going by between builds and posts.

Joel

[Joel_W]

Well, it's been give or take a month since my last update. Time sure flies when you're not making much if any postable progress. I'm at the ugly duckling stage of the build, putty, sanding, putty, sanding etc. for each sub assembly.

I've finally got it close enough to install the glass, mask, and finally prime, so I thought I'd post a update. But once the 2 nose glass sections were added, it quickly became apparent that the real modeling work was just about to start.

The bomber/gunner nose section is a completely separate sub assembly, so that the various versions could use the same basic fuselage. I built up the sub assembly as per kit instructions. Test fitted it, and it lined up perfectly with the main fuselage, so I figured all was well, or so I thought. Unfortunately, when I test fitted th two piece nose glass, the top glass section was to shallow in profile as was the nose gunners glass.

If you look carefully under the chin, you'll see a rather nasty step. Now I could have filed and sanded it down, creating a greater slope then the real aircraft, which also would effect the install of the bombers look down glass. So I decided to build up the area in front of the step using Vallejo's white acrylic putty, at least for a base coat to work with.

Af for the top of the main front glass, I started to build up the area behind it with .020 sheet, and blend it in with Bondo. Please excuse the rough look as I haven't done any sanding or blending as yet.

I built up the basic wing assemblies, and drilled out the 3 ID lights, backing them up with some sheet.

I was rather surprised at the poor overall fit of the engine Nacelles, but so be it.

If nothing else, the "fit" was consistent on both sides.

I then glued on the horizontal stabilizer, and had the expected cleanup and blending in. Fortunately, nothing major by any means.

Several reviews of this kit said that the wings fit so well, that you could literally paint them separately, then glue them to the fuselage, so I just had to dry fit everything as see for myself.

With a gentle nudge, one wing fit perfectly, while the other is just a tad off. Still, I think I'll do it the old fashion way, and install 1st, then paint.

Joel