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salvador001

1/35 U.S. Army UH-60A Blackhawk Medevac WIP

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Thanks Erick for all the info, you are very kind to share all this details for my build.

Heres another update.

Been working on the main rotor system, still needs some work but its almost done.

Hope everyone likes it.

Rod.

20160515_164917_zps4sd6fbrm.jpg

20160515_180703_zps5fpemplt.jpg

20160516_021136_zpsqzu6zhms.jpg

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It looks totally cool. You even added the connector point circle where the quick connect blade tie down pin goes.

Great job on the hawk, keep it coming!!!

Tim

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Awesome main rotor Rod!! I'm having kind of an urge to build a black hawk! but judging by the standard you guys have set, I think I'm gonna have to wait a bit to let my skills grow a little (lot) bigger!......hopefuly sometime soon!

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Nicely done. Here is a tip you need to know. The two parts that help make up the engine bays, R-30B and L-30B, extend into the transmission opening. The top corners of the parts tend to interfere with the swashplate ( B-58) control tube ends. I found it necessary to trim the upper forward corners back to eliminate this contact. This allows the main rotor to rotate freely.

Chris M

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Thank you guys for your support.

Great tip Chris, i will take note. BTW, the kit rotor transmission is horrible, just a round piece with no detail, i might try to get the fab resinworks transmission but it seems its out of stock.

Rod.

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Thank you guys for your support.

Great tip Chris, i will take note. BTW, the kit rotor transmission is horrible, just a round piece with no detail, i might try to get the fab resinworks transmission but it seems its out of stock.

Rod.

Yes it is. But you can't see much of it once the rotor assembly is in place.I made some small discs with a punch and put them across the top to resemble the real one. I also added a few tube extensions across the front to simulate the drive connectors and a tube at the back which may be the drive shaft link to the tail rotor. Once finished and you look through what little of the hole is visible you get an effect of something there. If you were going to open that cowling, the resin transmission would be very useful but if not, it's something you just would not see much of. You would know it's there....

Chris M

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I thought it would be visible, well, if the resin is not available, i will use the kit part and add some bits like you did. I have no choice.

Thanks Chris.

Rod.

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Here is a photo of what I did in the MH-60M build. It is very plain but 80% of the opening is obscured by the swashplate, and the rotor blade also interferes with looking into that opening. If you go back and look at the photo in the finished build thread that shows the rotor from top you'll see how little exposure to what's below actually exists. Everyone does things differently and I am not discouraging you from getting the resin transmission, I'm only illustrating the reality for you.

Chris M

PICT0005_zpstqkzl436.jpg

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Now i see. Thanks Chris.

Erick, a quick question regarding your bird 24644, did it had the last 3 digits on the red crosses or not?

Thanks.

Rod.

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Thank you very much Erick.

Here´s my 644 doors.

Rod.

20160524_191338_zpsaywvccga.jpg

20160522_234127_zpsxbiachs7.jpg

Edited by salvador001

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Ok guys, i got some clear iridescent film to test it for the blackhawk windshield, let me tell you it looks fantastic, but DAMN, it cannot be glued, it is very thin, breaks easily, i tested millions of techniques and none work. Sadly i will not use it, but i have plenty left to make HUDs for my jet models.

Just if you are curious, heres how it looks:

Rod.

20160611_125544_zps6bwo15mq.jpg

20160611_130839_zpse4acla2f.jpg

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Ok guys, i got some clear iridescent film to test it for the blackhawk windshield, let me tell you it looks fantastic, but DAMN, it cannot be glued, it is very thin, breaks easily, i tested millions of techniques and none work. Sadly i will not use it, but i have plenty left to make HUDs for my jet models.

Just if you are curious, heres how it looks:

Rod.

20160611_125544_zps6bwo15mq.jpg

20160611_130839_zpse4acla2f.jpg

Did you try dipping the canopy in Future and applying a precut film to the wet surface? I would think that would at least have a chance.

Ray

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Thank you guys.

Ray, i did pre cut it in the windshield shape, dip it in future but the problem persisted. It adhere good on the edges but air bubbles popped on the center. I think the problem is the curved shape of the windshield, if it was flat there were no issues. I admit it looks extremely awesome, just like the real deal, it changes color through light angles, from green, to gold, to blue, to purple, etc.

Maybe ill try to use it in my 1/48 hawk.

Rod.

Edited by salvador001

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Thank you very much Erick.

Here´s my 644 doors.

Rod.

20160524_191338_zpsaywvccga.jpg

20160522_234127_zpsxbiachs7.jpg

Nice looking doors dude! Hey if it's not too late, the door handles always point straight down whether they are locked or unlocked. They only point towards the "open" stencil when you pull the door handle to open the door, and then when you let go it springs back to pointing down.

If it is too late, then, uh, well, erm... i won't tell anyone if you don't!

Still looks pretty awesome Rod!

:)

-Ramon

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Heating the film with an hair dryer may work to make the film conform to curved surfaces?

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Thank you guys for your kind words.

Started detailing the cabin. I made the tie down holes on the floor, cut one by one, and it was a hard work. Not perfect but im happy with the result.

Heres how it looks till now.

Rod.

20160614_235144_zpspqf7be5f.jpg

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Your floor looks good. I bet it took forever to do that. You've got better patience than I do.

Tim

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Thank you guys for your kind words.

Started detailing the cabin. I made the tie down holes on the floor, cut one by one, and it was a hard work. Not perfect but im happy with the result.

Heres how it looks till now.

Rod.

20160614_235144_zpspqf7be5f.jpg

nice and sharp Rod, great work!

-Ramon

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