tobiK Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 (edited) Here my projekt for the GB: a Thunderstreak in camo, called TAC scheme (and is the same likethe well known USAF SEA camo). I take the Revell re-boxing of the old Monogram kit and add decals from an Italeri F-84F kit and the stencils come from Icarus. As a friend told me (and I could read in the forums) that the kit is still very nice so that I will not add a lot of AM. Raised panel lines ...uhhh....let's see how I will handle that. Maybe new engraving? Sounds like an unpleasant work. Edited January 12, 2016 by tobiK Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tobiK Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 Again the always boring question, as an early jet, interior color medium grey or interior green? I make the "890", it could be an ex-Luftwaffe bird!? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scotthldr Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 (edited) Cockpit on the F-84F should be 36231 Dark Gull Grey Not sure of it's origins, but 52-6890 now resides with 130 Combat Group at Limnos Airport in a somewhat sorry state. http://www.demobbed.org.uk/images/26890_f84.jpg Edited January 5, 2016 by scotthldr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tobiK Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 Thanks for the info! I think only early F-84F had int. green inside. OK so I take the grey! Uhhh,...what a sad pic!! I have found a pic on airliners.net showing the "890" in nice airworthy state: F-84F "890" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scotthldr Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 The linked picture that you put up of '890' definitely shows interior green? So I had a more in depth look around the net and it seems that both colours may have been used(mostly Grey), I've even came across some pictures showing Green with Grey canopy rails. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tobiK Posted January 6, 2016 Author Share Posted January 6, 2016 Hm, yaa, you are right, when I look closer it seams green: the Canopy holding bars, and somehow the seat sides. At least I can see that the canopy frame inside is black, also what is behind the seat und the back canopy. As I will put the driver in the office, you will not see sooo much later, and meanwhile, the grey is on (also due to the Revell instruction). I also think about making new engravings but some profiles are quite delicate and I have no idea what template i can use. uff... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tobiK Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 Meanwhile I was a bit busy and startet with cockpit. I have to say, for an (old) kit the detail is really nice oob! Painted wheel wells and nozzle. Some sinkmarks are to fill. Near the bench there are also the kit from Italeri/Kinetik and Hobby Boss. So I like to crosscheck their instructions in questions of color. Also compare some parts, how is the detail etc. The rumour goes that Kinetic is a copy of Monogram and it really seams so. But Kinetic did some devellopment like engraved panellines and rivets, added RATO rockets as the only kit. But we all know, Kinetic goofed the nose and -thank you, Quickboost! - there is a resin correction. Next time I will hold the fuselage halfes against each other. I want to try if I can see what is so badly wrong with the Kinetic fuselage (esp. rear part) and what is better on Hobby BooBoo (that is the most pricey kit from the trio). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tobiK Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 (edited) I want to add some pics now. Here the office: Some parts already prepared, soon the fuselage can be glued together. And yaa...I have to add some weight in the nose. Edited January 12, 2016 by tobiK Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tobiK Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 (edited) A few step forward: fuselage closed and sanded, some corrections made with CA and Magic Sculp epoxy putty and just sprayed black to check the seams. I have to say that the fit is really good considering the age of that kit. Before I compared the fuselage halves with the ones from Kinetic /Italeri and HB: my results are that Monogram/Revell is almost 1:1 to Kinetic exept the single piece nose from Kinetic and recessed panel lines and rivets. Revell to HB is really different: the position of the cockpit is a bit more back on the HB and the tail is also bigger. Edited January 31, 2016 by tobiK Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tobiK Posted January 31, 2016 Author Share Posted January 31, 2016 Continue work on the canopy now and doing small corrections. So soon I hope to put on Tamiya primer out of the rattle can. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scotthldr Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 Didn't realise that you've been putting up pictures since the 12th Jan Fantastic cockpit hard to believe that that is the kit one, makes you wonder why manufacturers can't produce better cockpits in today's kit's? Looks like she's building up nicely as well, one day I'll do the RF version. Look forward to the next report. Scott Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Skinny_Mike Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 Nice work so far Tobi! Your cockpit looks great. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tobiK Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 Scott, having the new Tanmodel RF in mind - must be looking great in HAF TAC scheme! Meanwhile I think about the loadout for the F: ofc the inner tanks, but what to hang on the outer pylons? 2 more tanks and get a 4-tanker? Was that a common / realy used loadout? I do not like to take the dumb bombs from the kit...somewhere I saw a pic with LAU rockets. So...here my question: what LAU the HAF had in service? LAU 3? LAU 10? I have the Hasegawa weapons set in the stash that contains serveral kinds of LAUs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scotthldr Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 You may find this video useful from 1:08 onwards, gives you lots of options Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tobiK Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 Thank you for the video link! I think I have seen something like a LAU 10 rocket launcher...and there are some in my Hasegawa weapons set B. Meanwhile slow progress on preparing for Tamiya primer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tobiK Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 (edited) Now the primer is on and some touch ups are done. The Hasegawa LAU already painted, I took Revell white, silk matt. Short pieces of steel wire are glued in position so I can fix them to the pylons later. Soon a preshading will follow, but only on the lower surfaces where the FS 36622 will be. On top will be no preshading because later I always manage it not to see that effect anymore. I want try freehand camo spraying. I found Gunze paints: H311 (FS 36622), H310 (FS30219), H303 (FS 34102) and H309 (FS 34079). About the dark green I am a bit confused: the Italeri instruction wants a dark drap FS 34064 (no idea who has that paint in the range), on IPMS Stockholm only a Humbrol mix. Icarus decals: FS 34079 for the TAC scheme (but it is for the RF-4 and F-104). Maybe you can give me advice what to take for the dark green? Stay with FS 34079 or take something more dark green? E.g. Tamiya XF_61? Or other suggestion? Edited February 12, 2016 by tobiK Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scotthldr Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 (edited) According to the Warpaint books it is indeed FS34064 instead of 34079. Looking at colour pictures on the web(although not great quality) they also appear to support this. http://web.ipmsusa3.org/content/warpaint-series-100-republic-f-84f-thunderstreak-and-rf-84f-thunderflash# scroll down for the profiles which you can open. Close matches are Xtracolor X241 Vallejo Air 71019 MM/Testors 4783 Tamiya XF51 or add a dash of Black to 34079 until you're happy, sometimes the best way since these a/c faded pretty quick. Edited February 12, 2016 by scotthldr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scotthldr Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Coming along nicely, now the fun bit begins Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tobiK Posted February 13, 2016 Author Share Posted February 13, 2016 Thanks for the heads-up. Uhh, the warpaint book is the house...but the also suggest for the other green "34012" (must be a typo, should be "34102")? MM acryl, Valejo and Xtra is only to get when order it and wait for the postman. Tamiya I can get in the next bigger town. So I searched the net and Revell 65 is also close to 34064, just not so dark. Humbrol 108 should be ok, and Revell 46 (due to ipms stockholm). So I made a color sample: Revell 46 is too bright, even Gunze H309 is darker. But Revell 65 seams fine, just need a tone down (or not, due to fading). So i will try Revell 65 because I have it here already. Tamiya 51 is called "khaki drab" and looks the same. (or lte's see, maybe I will a jar of Tamiya, too). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scotthldr Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 I compared my Xtracolor 34079 with Revell 46 and I would've said the Revell would be pretty much spot, just shows how paint can vary from batch to batch. If in doubt use the Mark I eye ball. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tobiK Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 (edited) I took an empty chreamcheese box and tried the paints I have here to compare them. Here Revell 46 is different to Gunze H309 (FS34079) even I made a second layer after dry. Tamiya XF61: way too dark and green Revell 46-65-68: 65 looks fine, just a bit too light, 68 also good, a tad more green, darkness seams good (= RAF british green) Meanwhile I sprayed Gunze H311 for the undersides. Not finished yet, anyone an idea how to break up the monotonie of the grey? Later a thin layer with H311 will follow to tone down the shades. Edited February 22, 2016 by tobiK Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scotthldr Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 Hi tobiK, are you able to enlarge the photos? To break up the monotone appearance I do a preshade followed by a post shade. I also spray in short bursts over the surface gradually building up the colour one panel at a time instead of continuous sweeps, hope that helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tobiK Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 Hi tobiK, are you able to enlarge the photos? To break up the monotone appearance I do a preshade followed by a post shade. I also spray in short bursts over the surface gradually building up the colour one panel at a time instead of continuous sweeps, hope that helps. done! Hm, ok, the technic with pre- and postshading is already planned. I think of making some blotches with H311 mixed: maybe a bit yellow green TAM XF-4, next with a bit TAM buff...let's see. And after that H311 diluted over it, next postshade with H311 + a bit white. Still can work with pastels later when flat coat is on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Skinny_Mike Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tobiK Posted February 21, 2016 Author Share Posted February 21, 2016 (edited) No real progress the last days but I got a jar of Tamiya XF-51. So I added some paint to my cheesebox and see - the Revell 68 is super close! But I will go with the Tamiya acrylics as the chemistry is on the same base as Gunze aqueous colors. You can even mix them and take the same thinner. Edited February 27, 2016 by tobiK Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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