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Hi Bill, wonderful progress! Wow, you've got a Silhouette cutter! Did you have to re-draw from Solidworks to the required Silhouette format? And do you have to put a whole sheet of styrene everytime you "print" a drawing? Oh, and thanks for the observations about the Big Armor kit!

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Thanks Crackerjazz. I originally tried to use a .pdf saved from the SW drawing but it wasn't tracing very well and since it's a pretty simple design I just redrew it with the Silhouette program...which BTW, sucks as a drawing program. :woot.gif: (I don't understand why a program that's designed to send information to an X-Y cutter converts everything to a pixel file instead of leaving vector as vector :bandhead2: , ok rant over)

I also first cut it out of a thick-ish (think it was .040") styrene since I was out of thin stuff, and wasn't getting very clean results so instead switched tactics and cut it out of several sheets of heavy card stock, then just stacked them up to get the thickness desired. Since it's going to be resin cast I wasn't worried about the master being paper, as long as I sealed it enough with surface primer it should come out ok.

Bill

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Hey guys. Back with another small update. I am turning my attention back to the main body while I wait for some supplies and wait for some finances to order the face plate from Shapeways. So figured I'd take the time to start trying to figure out that darn tail end section. Here is the basic profile shape formed in sheet styrene and I'm covering that in paper for now to figure the middle section. Then I can box that in with plastic and work with tapering the bottom and tops into the main bodye. Piece of cake... :whistle:/>/>/> Also you can see I made a simple paper angle guide so I can layout all of the main body features even from side to side.

IMAG0311_zpsn8hzq8qd.jpg

IMAG0312_zpswd4rokgt.jpg

IMAG0313_zpss21olsuj.jpg

Thanks for looking. Critiques, comments and suggestions are encouraged.

Bill

Edited by niart17
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Well, I bit the bullet and ordered the face piece and the 8 gun pod brackets. I used this photo taken from the making of video on youtube and designed the brackets hopefully close enough. I really like the mechanical aspect of these drones, they really seem totally plausible.

IMAG0309_zpsjpq1kxht.jpg

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If I were REALLY adventurous I would attempt to do the torn down "sleeper" drone that he was working on in his shop. But I'm not that crazy nor do I feel I have the chops to pull it off...Crackerjazz? Care to give this one a try? :woot.gif:/>/>

ThomTenery_Oblivion_Concept_Art_Drone_Mech_Back_zps0er6fnjk.jpg

Bill

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Hey Bill that is some nice work there on the stand offs. If I can comment on them. They look great but I think the top of the moving part needs to be a bit wider. Comparing it to the phot0 you posted it seems that the rectangular hole should be more rectangular. Maybe it is the perspective. Not sure.

I did a Google search for the drone and lots of images but lots of crap to wade through too.

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Hey Bill that is some nice work there on the stand offs. If I can comment on them. They look great but I think the top of the moving part needs to be a bit wider. Comparing it to the phot0 you posted it seems that the rectangular hole should be more rectangular. Maybe it is the perspective. Not sure.

I did a Google search for the drone and lots of images but lots of crap to wade through too.

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the input. Yes, I think you're probably right about the top (inside) of the standoffs but it was really hard to tell 100%. The image I posted was actually just taken with my cell phone camera standing in front of my TV with it paused and I think there is some slight anglular distortion. I found a few other pics of them head-on and it looked a little thinner at the top so I kind of went with somewhere in between. I know as soon as my parts get in and installed somewhere I'll find a dimensioned detailed drawing of the brackets and they'll be totally wrong. :bandhead2: Oh well, don't think they'll be seen enough to make a difference. Thanks though and if you happen to find anything else or any more specific information I'd really appreciate it.

As for the pics on-line, it seems like most (maybe 80%) of the images I can find that aren't movie screen shots, are actually computer renderings of what other people have created based on what information they could find; and they aren't always really accurate. There seems to be little in the way of accurate information on them. There is a video I spoke of about the drones with some fantastic images from different angles, and it's labeled part 1 but I haven't found or seen part 2 that may have more in it. Other than that and the few shots on the designers own website, I haven't found much. A shame, they are really cool designs.

Here is a link to that video:

Thanks again,

Bill

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I did a little experimenting with how I might could build the rear of the drone. This is a mock up of the back using modeling clay. If I can shape this enough to get a consistent result I may just use Milliput or Aves sculpting clay and build it up that way. It will add more weight than I'd like to the rear, but it may be the best way to get it. This is the first attempt using a cut medicine bottle for the thruster unit. It's a little rough but do you guys think it has potential?

DSC_0088_zpsgryzxook.jpg

The other side shows the structure before adding the clay.

DSC_0085_zps5qcevcpx.jpg

Any other ideas on maybe how to accomplish this better would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill

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That's some substantial progress! I was thinking you'd do the fillets that way; I would have done it similarly. Styrene bulkheads would be nice to serve as guides for the putty, although, to derive the bulkheads would require that you complete the solidworks model first. Wow -- thanks for the video link --- and that Terminator Drone -- that's sick! No, I'm not crazy enough to build one, LOL. I haven't even found a suitable one for the normal drone yet : ) I've found a donor sphere in the form of a globe being sold at the dollar store but it's huge -- at 7.75 inches. And the next smaller size is 5.5" which is too small.

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Sounds like you have a Goldilocks situation there Crackerjazz. :woot.gif:/>/>/> The 6" polycarbonate light globes I used were only about $7 each and they take glue and paint really well. Should be easy to find at any Home Depot.

Ok, I did some more to the rear and I think this is going to work out ok. I built up the basic shape with sheet styrene and then covered it and blended it with Aves sculpting clay. It will take a few more rounds of clay to get it blended smoothly and then a few passes with some modeling putty and then hopefully it will come out good. Here is the first pass with clay. The trickiest part is blending the engine tubes in evenly. But I think it's not too bad. Keep in mind this is still rough.

IMAG0323_zpsxjmbfugm.jpg

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IMAG0322_zps3tywpepc.jpg

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Thanks for checking it out.

Bill

Edited by niart17
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:worship:/> :worship:/>

Only thing I see is the right is a little higher then the left engine by the height of the engine material. Could be the angle. :unsure:/>

I noticed the same thing when I looked at the pic and measured and measured and couldn't figure out why it looks like that when it measures even. I think it's an optical illusion due to the fact that the hole I put in the bottom to mount it is slightly off from the bottom, so the whole drone is leaning. Also, the joint between the back engine deck and the curved upper section is not straight. But before I go much further i'm going to give it a good primer coat and look at it again. If it's way off I'll fix it. If it's close then I'll likely leave it as-is.

Thanks,

Bill

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Really cool update, Bill! Oh -- THAT light globe! When you said Home Depot I realized I actually have one hanging from the ceiling at home! But wait -- isn't it kind of heavy and a bit breakable? I thought it felt like glass when I was attaching it -- How'd you manage to cut through it?

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Really cool update, Bill! Oh -- THAT light globe! When you said Home Depot I realized I actually have one hanging from the ceiling at home! But wait -- isn't it kind of heavy and a bit breakable? I thought it felt like glass when I was attaching it -- How'd you manage to cut through it?

They have different materials. The ones I got are polycarbonate designed mainly for outdoor use. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Westinghouse-6-in-White-Polycarbonate-Globe-with-3-1-4-in-Fitter-8186900/203066170,

They also have acrylic and glass. The polycarbonate ones are pretty light and cut easy with a razor saw. I'd say the wall thickness is only about .060". I haven't tried scribing yet to see how it holds fine lines but it should do ok.

Bill

Edited by niart17
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The trickiest part is blending the engine tubes in evenly.

Why not print out some reverse templates to measure the different profiles from your image? Kinda like NASCAR uses to check profiles of the cars.

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Why not print out some reverse templates to measure the different profiles from your image? Kinda like NASCAR uses to check profiles of the cars.

Thanks for suggestion Tank, I may end up having to do just that or maybe break out a contour gauge. But I did figure out what was going on with the catewhompus back end. It wasn't that the right side nozzle sat higher, it was that the right side top sloped down a little further and made it look like that. I didn't notice, but when I applied the Apoxie over the styrene top piece, the weight on that side made the plastic sag slightly. It really stood out when I reprimed and sanded. So here is some fiddling to get it closer. I built the right side up a little higher than it needs and then will sand it down to smooth it out. I think I'm going to fashion myself a 3" radius curved sanding block and that should allow me to sand the back down evenly. We'll see. Anyway, here is a few shots with a side by side comparison of left and right before sanding. It's not a perfect comparison since it was really hard to get the exact same angle and distance with my cell phone but it kind of shows it. It's still rough, but it's getting there.

side%20by%20side%20compare_zpspsxa3pai.jpg

back_zpshnmmbt2v.jpg

top_zpsoif0ntcg.jpg

Thanks for checking it out.

Bill

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Had an exciting delivery today, at least it was exciting to me. My drone now has a face! That and the brackets came in from Shapeways and I'm very happy with them. This was the first time I'd tried to print a moving multi-part model and it works just as I designed it. Here are a few shots of the parts before priming. The front hatch is hinged so I can perhaps use this as the place to put batteries if I decide to light the model. I'll use a small magnet to hold it closed. The various sensor holes are left open and undetailed mainly so I could see how it would print before committing to more expensive parts. I have to put some screen material in the two vent area and I'm not sure how I want to handle the main eye camera but I a few ideas.

Now I can't wait to get the back in shape and get to the fun stuff.

Working hinge:

DSC_0100_zpsdnkztozp.jpg

Temporarily tacked on the model. I'll clean up the edges and build a battery compartment:

DSC_0101_zpsjbfmeuqw.jpg

Open:

DSC_0102_zpsv5hidozp.jpg

The gun pod brackets:

DSC_0103_zpsndtnqmaq.jpg

Thanks for checking it out. Comments, critiques and suggestions are welcome!

Bill

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Bill that looks superb. You just convinced me to stop farting around and finish my project so that I can get it off to Shapeways. Will be my first effort that I send there so very hesitant that I don't screw it up.

Thanks again for sharing your work. Very inspirational.

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Bill that looks superb. You just convinced me to stop farting around and finish my project so that I can get it off to Shapeways. Will be my first effort that I send there so very hesitant that I don't screw it up.

Thanks again for sharing your work. Very inspirational.

Thanks skyhawk. Personally I like using Shapeways. They may not be the best service out there but they are pretty convenient and I feel the quality is pretty good if you plan what materials you want for what type of part you're going for. If you're concerned about the designing and then printing process, perhaps start with something simple that you know should work, like a wheel or something. I did a simple part first to test out the process and it gave me more confidence to start trying more and more complicated parts. Like everything, it's a learning experience that can be used for some great results.

As for the drone, I'm starting to focus on the main engine now. It's a very cool vectored thrust design very similar to the engines on the bubble ship. I haven't been able to find any clear shots up inside the engine "bell" so if anyone has any idea of what that looks like it would be much appreciated. The main shape is again, another sphere. This time I am using one of those clear 2 piece ornaments that you can find at Hobby Lobby for a few bucks. The one I'm using is about 3 1/8" Dia. and scales almost perfectly with the printed images I have. Here is what I'm going for.

IMAG0359_zpsnhj5cltt.jpg

I'm hoping to leave it rotatable by putting some kind of ring support inside to hold it in place. This is the roughed out look. I think it already makes the back end look better. Also you can see I still have some touch up work to do on the surfaces, but it's getting better.

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And another thing, I got the face attached and primed. Starting to look like a defender drone.

IMAG0356_zpsgit4tuvs.jpg

Thanks,

Bill

Edited by niart17
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Bill that looks so good it is giving me goose bumps all over :)

Just a quick comment. I think you may need some more putty on those small side engines/thrusters as the pictures show them more blended in. At least that is what I see. Sorry to cause you more work, maybe.

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