breadneck Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 So what do you use ? Trying to narrow down my options here. Maybe get a few good pointers. I`m not planning on modelling any "wrecks", just need to weather a few vehicles and would like some rust effects together with a general weathering/dusty look. I can tell there are quite a few choices around, so do you stick to your "favourite" one or apply a variety of different products? Preferably "complete" weathering sets. If you have any DIY techniques, i am all ears Quote Link to post Share on other sites
breadneck Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share Posted March 29, 2016 Anyone have any experience with this ? http://www.micromark.com/rust-n-dust,9562.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tank Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 (edited) I am a fan of the hair spray technique. Another one new to me is Windex. Both are talked about in the Tank Art (hairspray in all) or Single Model series (windex in tractor). I have almost all the books, so I would recommend at least getting one to explain all the details. http://www.rinaldistudiopress.com/ https://www.facebook.com/RinaldiStudio I have used and like MIG pigments. I some of the other MIG and AK interactive products. Just havn't got them to work for me the way I like but I fully admit it is probably user error more then anything else. Here is some other DIY ideas. http://www.fcmodeltips.com/2014/06/superficie-oxidada-por-salpicado-rusted.html http://www.fcmodeltips.com/2013/07/efecto-de-pintura-estropeada-sobre.html http://www.fcmodeltips.com/2013/07/lavados-de-oxido-rust-washes.html HTH Edited March 29, 2016 by Tank Quote Link to post Share on other sites
breadneck Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share Posted March 29, 2016 I am a fan of the hair spray technique. Another one new to me is Windex. Both are talked about in the Tank Art (hairspray in all) or Single Model series (windex in tractor). I have almost all the books, so I would recommend at least getting one to explain all the details. http://www.rinaldistudiopress.com/ https://www.facebook.com/RinaldiStudio I have used and like MIG pigments. I some of the other MIG and AK interactive products. Just havn't got them to work for me the way I like but I fully admit it is probably user error more then anything else. Here is some other DIY ideas. http://www.fcmodelti...ado-rusted.html http://www.fcmodelti...eada-sobre.html http://www.fcmodelti...ust-washes.html HTH Well i did see one of those hairspray videos on Youtube. Not quite sure what to make of it and i`m not the hairspray type of guy. The salt method yielded some interesting results, but i would personally try fine sand instead. Not planning on getting any books on the subject. I have a bunch of Abteilung tubes and a few MIG powders, but haven`t tried out the AKANS range yet. Right now i am leaning towards the Rust & Dust. Building a 72 diorama and at least the vehicles involved simply can not have a new finish, lol. Bjørn in Norway Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Litvyak Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 If you want larger rusty patches then you can use spots of rubber cement in the same sort of way as with the salt technique. The salt technique can be even better if you mix fine and coarse salts... I'd suggest like, putting some coarse salt right touching the edges and near to the blotches of the rubber cement, then fine salt near/around the coarse... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dsahling Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 While I'm not an armor modeler, I did pick up a new product I tried on my Russian Flanker that I'll be using in lots of future builds. The Tamiya Weathering Sets (they come in a variety of colors), they're very easy to work with and using Future as a gloss coat helps to "fix" the pigments in place quite well. The have a variety of colors for rust, I highly recommend picking one up; fun to use too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Litvyak Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 An alternative to the Tamiya weathering master sets that's both cheaper and offers a much broader range of colours is eyeshadow. Don't need to go to Sephora of course, just cheap supermarket/walmart eyeshadow will work just as well. Note of advice though I would strongly recommend using the eyeshadow last, and not putting any clear coat over top, because that will kill the effect completely. It's pretty durable even under a bit of handling (which I don't imagine is going to happen very often), and if necessary can always be touched up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
I.Illes Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 (edited) What I developed and works for me to achieve most realistic effects is to simulate what happens: Layer fade away, paint cracks, moisture affects metal etc. So my approach on any kit these days is: - Tamiya primer - Gunze buffable steel (let cure, polish until it is like a mirror) - acrylic(!) zinc chromate yellow or any other primer color that would be used on the real thing - acrylic(!) dark redish brown when this is finished: - hairspray (don't let it cure for too long) and apply your final paintjob on top of that. a wet old stubby brush and a toothpick will help the water to get between the layers and losen the hairspray and you can gently wipe through the top layer. Once that is done, you can add a bit of isopropyl alcohol to the water or simply use Tamiya acryilics thinner (highly dilluted with water) and the following layer will give gently way to reveal layer after layer with the typical and realistic different colors of layer on the edge. -apply pigments (MiG with the pigment fixer is amazing!), oils and washes as desired. 1 2 3 4 I hope these help to illustrate what I tried to describe. In my experience, no effect that was added to the top layer can replicate the effect of real wear and tear. You have to gently work your way through the layers, light and shadow will take care of the rest. Dust and light surface rust however can be applied to the surface as the other comments suggest. Whenever I do such things, I ask myself: how are the areas affected in real life? In case someone wonders how the snow was made: water, white glue and baking soda. Glitters, behaves like snow when applied etc. P.S.: sorry about any dust; this was no proper set up or shoot; just a quick one to show what I talk about. EDIT: Faded can also mean that you have a paintjob that has variing flat/gloss/semiglossy areas. I achieve this by finishing the paintjob with a thing flatcoat, add some oils for stains and start to gently polish the edges and protruding lumps and bumps, leading edges or areas with a piece of paper. HTH István Edited April 3, 2016 by I.Illes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
breadneck Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share Posted April 3, 2016 What I developed and works for me to achieve most realistic effects is to simulate what happens: Layer fade away, paint cracks, moisture affects metal etc. So my approach on any kit these days is: - Tamiya primer - Gunze buffable steel (let cure, polish until it is like a mirror) - acrylic(!) zinc chromate yellow or any other primer color that would be used on the real thing - acrylic(!) dark redish brown when this is finished: - hairspray (don't let it cure for too long) and apply your final paintjob on top of that. a wet old stubby brush and a toothpick will help the water to get between the layers and losen the hairspray and you can gently wipe through the top layer. Once that is done, you can add a bit of isopropyl alcohol to the water or simply use Tamiya acryilics thinner (highly dilluted with water) and the following layer will give gently way to reveal layer after layer with the typical and realistic different colors of layer on the edge. -apply pigments (MiG with the pigment fixer is amazing!), oils and washes as desired. Example 01 Example 02 Example 03 Example 04 I hope these help to illustrate what I tried to describe. In my experience, no effect that was added to the top layer can replicate the effect of real wear and tear. You have to gently work your way through the layers, light and shadow will take care of the rest. Dust and light surface rust however can be applied to the surface as the other comments suggest. Whenever I do such things, I ask myself: how are the areas affected in real life? In case someone wonders how the snow was made: water, white glue and baking soda. Glitters, behaves like snow when applied etc. P.S.: sorry about any dust; this was no proper set up or shoot; just a quick one to show what I talk about. EDIT: Faded can also mean that you have a paintjob that has variing flat/gloss/semiglossy areas. I achieve this by finishing the paintjob with a thing flatcoat, add some oils for stains and start to gently polish the edges and protruding lumps and bumps, leading edges or areas with a piece of paper. HTH István Hey, i don`t think your links work :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
I.Illes Posted April 3, 2016 Share Posted April 3, 2016 (edited) Hey, i don`t think your links work :) Fixed. Added new links in my original comment, don't click the quoted ones. Just noticed: if the pics are small, you have to click them for the bigger version. Try again :) Edited April 4, 2016 by I.Illes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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