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Reedoak, 3D printed modern US Navy deck crews


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  • 3 weeks later...

any news? :whistle:/>

yes

48t_zpsjkodcr4w.jpg

48u_zps9xp932on.jpg

So, you pull the handle, push the right chain link down, lock the handle and tighten with the cylinder...

in my dream

but I could push the link down, so I added the 1/48 tie down to the webshop.

Be aware, it's very small and need some care

Norbert

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Hi Norbert I need 2 sets but I would like to understand how to hook the opposite end of the chain to the deck's 'well' (maybe with a furher tie-down)?

So are they needed the double of the hooks for every chain?

25rf42x.jpg

It seems a simple hook... can you provide it or do we make it from scratch?

thanks and regards.

Edited by Alpagueur
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The chain in scale 1 is standard 9 feets long, and has a hook at the end. I just do not know how to install a 3D printed hook to a real micro chain.It will be easier if the hook is made in wire

So far, I did not follow the idea to 3D print a chain, micro chain look better IMHO. I also designed the tie down padeyes for the deck, but I think you get them cheaper in PE.

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You can order in the webshop at www.reedoak.com

payment paypal or credit card through Paypal (no need to have a paypal account, despite they will propose to get one)

Norbert

Edited by norbert
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I'm on the hook for a few of these 48th sets B) .

I think is only a matter of time before you will be able to fully 3D print a scale model completely painted.

That will take all the fun out of modeling, much like going out and buying a diecast model....I've done that for my grandson, so he can play on the floor while I have a go at one of my kits. I just hope plastic kits never become passe'. Where would be the challenge the glory of DYI, and the thrill and enjoyment one gets from a build.

Edited by #1 Greywolf
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  • 2 months later...

Hi

Need your help, I'm looking for the size of the carrier deck pad-eye, if one of you have access to a carrier or knows somebody who has access

PADEYE_zpsri2knwxj.jpg

Norbert

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Hi

We added a second deck crew with tie-down to Reedoaks collection, a kneeling one (goes easier under an aircraft)

32zf_zpskocbpzli.jpg

32zg_zpsb7szfp9c.jpg

still looking for the pad-eye size

Norbert

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love both figures Norbert, they really look great in those positions... you're tempting me for a SH diorama.

each of these two figure will be including 1 tie-down point + 1 chain? Or only the simple figure?

In this case, could you say me brand and code no. of those chains showed in your last pics so we could purchase them separately? thanks.

Edited by Alpagueur
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Each include the tie-down they have in hand, but not the chain. Did not find a supplier for them out of the hobby stores (train, ship).

The chain is a little small here, right size should be arround 22 LPI (Link per inch), so a link length around 1.6 mm in 1/32 scale

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thanks Norbert. How can we hook the opposite end of the chain to the pad-eye? do we need a further tie-down?

You do not need a further tie-down, but the same hook. The standard chain is 9 feets long, so I think best is to glue a chain end to the tie-down end.

Then cut it to the requested length to reach the pad-eye. The surplus chain has to be glued to the tie-down, hanging down as you can see on pictures.

I'm wondering if the best thing will not be to install the pad-eye at the end, with hook installed and connected to chain

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You do not need a further tie-down, but the same hook.

could you include a further hook for the opposite end then? or do we need to purchase a tie-down set (12 pcs) to cut/get the hook from?

http://reedoak.com/#!/1-32-US-Navy-aircraft-tie-down-in-locked-position-set-of-12-units-without-chain/p/63415448/category=15593075

98vnte.jpg

Edited by Alpagueur
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So far, I'm looking how I can design this damn hook. If you're under tension, it's impossible to insert the hook inside the pad-eye in place, so was thinking to insert the pad-eye in the deck hole at the end. The other trick is to fix the metal chain to the hook. If I do a hole, You'll have to make a futher link that connect the chain to the hook. It's also possible to make a slope where a chain link is inserted and glued in place with CA.

I want to try these solutions on a deck, but still need the real pad-eye size for the deck, If one of you has acess to an aircraft carrier or even a museum exemple (New-york, San-Diego...)

Norbert

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

We still keep with the tie-down story. (webshop is at www.reedoak.com : link in the signature )

We finaly made a piece of deck in order to check how everything gets together :

32zk_zpsb3fk91kj.jpg

we can do the pad-eyes in sets of 14 pieces and 14 hooks with a minimized footprint on the printer.

32zo_zpsiqrkq0jg.jpg

Hooks are done with a slot at the end, so it is easy to insert and glue the extreme chain link

32zm_zpsjwgp1udd.jpg

Naturaly, figures hook are easy to install despite there is a good installation side (hook point up, the other way is wrong)

32zn_zpsmnuc0myc.jpg

The installation on the aircraft requires more dexterity

32zl_zpstv4urlnm.jpg

Norbert

Edited by norbert
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which carrier deck section has shown in the figure? I need it if large enough...

If I can get it I'd like to purchase also all those pad-eyes, chains, hooks and the two figures working on the front gear leg.

cheers.

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It's a section just ahead of the island : going forward, you have the island, a lift with the double row of red/yellow marquing and then this section. There is another lift a little further ahead. On the angle of my plate is the angle of the lift, for a small note of colour.

I did the deck section myself : I bought a piece of plywood, standard here in europe, 40 x 80 cm. I draw the position of the pad-eyes, checking with CVN deck pictures, knowing the standard pattern of pad-eyes is 10' x 10', with a row shifted at 5'. You prepare the other deck pannel positions at that stage, and additional pad-eyes positions you may find on pictures. This section is big enough for a Super-hornet.

After you have marked the pad-eye position, you drill the pad-eyes holes. Then you prepare the deck surface. I think everybody has his own way. I primed the plywood surface with grey primer. Then I mixed white glue with black and white pigments and covered the deck with this mixture with a flat brush and before it dries, I went over with a fine comb to replicate the somewhat corrugated surface of the deck. I did this a second time to ensure you can not see the wood anymore. You grain everything protruding too much. You trace the deck pannels at this stage with a hobby knife, they will show up later. A spray of lighter grey paint over it, that you slightly grain (or wash) on the corrugated lines shows them up. At the end, you insert the pad-eyes, paint the deck markings depending to the deck section you replicate, some weathering and it's done.

Norbert

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